Suspension linkage bearing replacement - any tips?

[SamyB]

Hi guys,

While putting the stock suspension linkage, I noticed that one of the bearing was shot. I need to replace it , but I need to remove the front seal that blocks me from putting a new one. How would I go about doing so? Also, should I replace all the bearings while I'm doing the job. Only one seems to be shot.

Also if anyone has part numbers that would be awesome. These are generic seals/bearings, I don't want to pay the Yamaha tax.



Thank you,

 

[bimota]

just a thought only thinking out loud how many miles on your bike not seen many replace those you could cheaper buy a second hand mount whitch will have them in and bolt it on example

2014 Yamaha XT 1200 Z SUPER TENERE Bottom Shock Mount | eBay

2014 Yamaha XT 1200 Z SUPER TENERE Bottom Shock MountBottom shock mount: includes tie bars. In useable condition. Removed from a running bike. Situated just outside of Edinburgh in the Newbridge Industrial Estate, SCB is located within 1 mile of the M8/M9 junction.

www.ebay.co.uk

rob

 

[scott123007]

You have to replace the seal regardless, because you will compromise it by removing it. Either get a screwdriver and pry it out or drill a little hole in the side of it and stick a bent coat hanger, or something like it, in the hole, and pull it out. The bearing race is going to be a lot more difficult to remove, so you might want to just take the linkage to a place that can remove it for you. Ultimately, since you have the linkage off, it would be a good idea to replace both bearings and seals.
Bimota's idea is best though, if you can find a linkage on Ebay or somewhere, because it will most likely cost less than new parts and labor, if you can't do it. (There is one on Ebay right now for under $40.00.)

 

[Boris]

 

[thughes317]

Hi guys,

While putting the stock suspension linkage, I noticed that one of the bearing was shot. I need to replace it , but I need to remove the front seal that blocks me from putting a new one. How would I go about doing so? Also, should I replace all the bearings while I'm doing the job. Only one seems to be shot.

Also if anyone has part numbers that would be awesome. These are generic seals/bearings, I don't want to pay the Yamaha tax.

View attachment 109742View attachment 109739View attachment 109740View attachment 109741

Thank you,

Anybody that ever has to remove a grease seal should have one in their tool box (c'mon...it's only $8):

Seal Puller with 2 Tips

Amazing deals on this Seal Puller W/ 2 Tips at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[TenereGUY]

Anybody that ever has to remove a grease seal should have one in their tool box (c'mon...it's only $8):

Seal Puller with 2 Tips

Amazing deals on this Seal Puller W/ 2 Tips at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I don't use much one often but I love it when I do! Soooooo much better than a screwdriver!

 

[SamyB]

You have to replace the seal regardless, because you will compromise it by removing it. Either get a screwdriver and pry it out or drill a little hole in the side of it and stick a bent coat hanger, or something like it, in the hole, and pull it out. The bearing race is going to be a lot more difficult to remove, so you might want to just take the linkage to a place that can remove it for you. Ultimately, since you have the linkage off, it would be a good idea to replace both bearings and seals.
Bimota's idea is best though, if you can find a linkage on Ebay or somewhere, because it will most likely cost less than new parts and labor, if you can't do it. (There is one on Ebay right now for under $40.00.)

Any idea how to remove the bearing without removing the part?

 

[cyclemike4]

Any idea how to remove the bearing without removing the part?

I have removed the seals with out too much damage before but always prefer to put new ones in any time I change bearings. By the way I may have misread your post but that steel case that is still in the linkage will have to come out. The new bearing will come together with a steel case on it. You will have to get the old case out and press in the new one so the seal has to come off any way.

 

[SamyB]

I have removed the seals with out too much damage before but always prefer to put new ones in any time I change bearings. By the way I may have misread your post but that steel case that is still in the linkage will have to come out. The new bearing will come together with a steel case on it. You will have to get the old case out and press in the new one so the seal has to come off any way.

Yeah I'm trying to remove the old steel case. Is there a lip that stop the bearing from going all the way? Also, is there a tool to remove the bearing? I was able to remove the seal without issue.

 

[cyclemike4]

there are blind pullers made for those types of things but I usually put a little heat on the linkage with a propane torch and just punch it out with a hammer and punch. while the linkage is hot I will have some wood ready and line up the new bearing and press them in with my bench vise. I use the wood to prevent damage to the linkage and new bearing. A lot of times they will tap in easily while it is all hot and will not bend the new bearing. they are easy to damage. Some bearings that are tough to get out I will use my welder and tap a weld inside the bearing in two places using a nickel rod on cast bearings and just regular rods on steel cases like yours. that puts a lot of heat in there to break it loose and they almost fall out with a tap on the punch. while it is hot I flip the linkage over and new ones press in easy.

 

[SamyB]

there are blind pullers made for those types of things but I usually put a little heat on the linkage with a propane torch and just punch it out with a hammer and punch. while the linkage is hot I will have some wood ready and line up the new bearing and press them in with my bench vise. I use the wood to prevent damage to the linkage and new bearing. A lot of times they will tap in easily while it is all hot and will not bend the new bearing. they are easy to damage. Some bearings that are tough to get out I will use my welder and tap a weld inside the bearing in two places using a nickel rod on cast bearings and just regular rods on steel cases like yours. that puts a lot of heat in there to break it loose and they almost fall out with a tap on the punch. while it is hot I flip the linkage over and new ones press in easy.

That was my plan to remove the old bear Mike. I was wondering if there was a some kind of lip in the linkage. I don't want to "punch" that lip to remove the old bearing. I don't know if that make sense.

 

[cyclemike4]

That was my plan to remove the old bear Mike. I was wondering if there was a some kind of lip in the linkage. I don't want to "punch" that lip to remove the old bearing. I don't know if that make sense.

I have not changed the bearings in my Super T I have done what seems like hundreds of swing arm and linkage bearings over the years. I have never encountered a lip on them. you are probably seeing the lip that held the needle bearings in the casing. It is a very thin case and just press fitted in the linkage I am pretty sure. You will be fine just punching it out with a bit of heat on the linkage.

 

[SamyB]

I have not changed the bearings in my Super T I have done what seems like hundreds of swing arm and linkage bearings over the years. I have never encountered a lip on them. you are probably seeing the lip that held the needle bearings in the casing. It is a very thin case and just press fitted in the linkage I am pretty sure. You will be fine just punching it out with a bit of heat on the linkage.

Thanks Mike. Quick question, how would I know how deep I need to push the new bearings when installing them if there's no lip?

 

[TenereGUY]

Thanks Mike. Quick question, how would I know how deep I need to push the new bearings when installing them if there's no lip?

Isn't there a spacer between the bearings? Thought there was but that was almost a year ago when I was greasing everything down there.

 

[cyclemike4]

Thanks Mike. Quick question, how would I know how deep I need to push the new bearings when installing them if there's no lip?

Hello SamyB. while I have not changed bearings in my Super T but the other bikes I have done have either had a small shoulder machined in the linkage that the bearing went up to and I am pretty sure some of them had nothing between the bearings. Some may have had a small spacer like TenereGUY said. In any case the seal will have a shoulder that it seats against. with a socket or the old bearing housing you can push the new one in to be flush with that seal shoulder and it will be good. It has to be in far enough to not interfere with the seal when it goes in. I am sure when you get started on the job you will see how it all should be. those bearings can be a real pain so patience is the key.

 

[Jlq1969]

Watching the breakage of the torrington. I ask… Wouldn't it be better to put a torrington that Don't bring a plastic basket?. Or with a metal basket?

 

[Ossaboy2867]

Seriously spend the money and buy OEM or higher. I see people buying the $20 wheel bearing kits from tusk and others and I just cringe. Same thing goes for suspension, spend the money and buy the best bearings/seals, nothing from the land of China

 

[SamyB]

I got the new bearings. Anyone can direct me to the tool I have to buy to do the job? Thank you,

 

[SkunkWorks]

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/bushing-driver/p/powerbuilt-bushing-driver-set/536903_0_0



They might have this set in their "Loaner Tool" section?
You pay the deposit and bring it home.
After you use it, bring it back for a refund..............