Suspension adjustment

taskmaster86

Active Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2015
Messages
326
Location
South Eastern, CT
ADKsuper10 said:
Thanks guys thats what I was afraid of. Not keen right now on spending additional $ on upgrading shocks. I will, though if that's what it takes to correct the issue.

I wonder how long I can get away with the OEM shock cranked all the way under my normal street riding and very occasiional back roading (mostly still paved - just horrible pavement)? I plan to ditch the topp case and just run panniers (maybe OEMs) not very loaded at all - mostly just for convenience when going to and from work to store gear.

I am roughly 225# of solid steel plus normal riding gear.

Any thoughts?
Many of us are in the same boat as you. I weigh 205 naked but when riding, I wear full gear and my S-10 is fully farkled out. My plan is to adjust the stock suspension the best I can and call it a day.

Like many of us, I do not and will not push the bike hard enough either on the street, track or offroad to the point where the stock suspension is going to be dangerous or even un-enjoyable. Plain and simple... sure it could be better but most of us do not have the skill or desire to push any part of this machine past it's real performance envelope. If something breaks or needs to replaced, sure I will buy better aftermarket stuff but for now, Bushy's suspension recommendations are good enough for me. I did however back the rear pre-load off a few turns just so that pot holes are not so hard and jarring on my a-hole ;)

BTW: I have done quite a bit of experimenting with tire pressure and the stock bridgestone rubbers. I am liking 40 PSI front and 40 PSI rear for tires pressures. I ride 90% on road, 10% off road.
 

frez

New Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
319
Location
Dorset, UK
When I first got the bike my weight was North of 320#, I rode the bike for about a year before changing the shock. I wish I had changed it earlier as it was a massive improvement. Now I'm below 240# the shock is still great but a little hard, I'll be changing the spring when I get below 200#.

A new shock is a big investment, but it is a great investment to my mind, and when I come to sell the bike I can always swap back the OEM and sell the new shock for a good percentage of what I paid for it.

One thing though, when you change the shock you will then want to change the fork springs and maybe the fork valving too.

I was thinking of changing the bike before I updated my suspension, but since I did that and the clutch basket I'm very happy with it.
 

ADKsuper10

Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2016
Messages
286
Location
New York
Re: Do Yourself a Favor and Adjust Your Suspension.

Bushyar15 said:
Sure. BTW I took it out yesterday for a proper off-road ride and the changes were definitely a vast improvement over the stock settings.

Rather than try to scan pictures or take pictures, I'll reference the Owner's Manual that came with my bike and should have come with everyone's bike.

DISCLAIMER: The following is what I did. I take no responsibility if you strip, over tighten or screw up your suspension in any shape, manner, or form doing what I did...

For Front/Fork Preload Setting: Page 4-25, First picture. Spring Preload Adjusting Bolt - Turn in direction "A" (clockwise) till there are 3 lines showing above the Front fork cap bolt. Reference the second photo in the manual to see how they count lines). Use a box wrench or socket to turn these bolts or you could slip and bugger up the bolts. They'll work, just looked "hacked"

Fork Rebound - Page 4-26 Fork Rebound is on top of the forks Using a flatblade, carefully turned in direction "A" (clockwise) till they stopped. DO NOT use excessive force!!!! I then counted 6 clicks in direction "B", counter-clockwise

Fork Compression - Page 4-26, second diagram on the page - using a flatblade screw driver turn in direction "A" (clockwise) till they stopped. DO NOT use excessive force!!!! I then counted 6 clicks in direction "B", counter-clockwise

I ENSURED BOTH FORK LEGS HAD THE EXACT SAME AMOUNT OF CLICKS and lines showing.

Rear Shock Preload Page 4-27 - First diagram. Put the motorcycle on the Center-stand, turn the knob in direction "A" (Clockwise) till the indicator is even with "HARD".

Rear shock Rebound Damping, Page 4-27 Second Diagram Turn in Direction "A" till it stops. (Clockwise if you are laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the shock). Then turn 6 clicks in direction "B" (Counter-clockwise if you are laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the shock)


Thats what I did :)
Bushy - What tire pressures do you run? sorry if you mentioned this already didn't see it. Thanks.
 

Millman

Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2015
Messages
116
Location
Naples, NY
ADKsuper10 said:
Thanks guys thats what I was afraid of. Not keen right now on spending additional $ on upgrading shocks. I will, though if that's what it takes to correct the issue.

I wonder how long I can get away with the OEM shock cranked all the way under my normal street riding and very occasiional back roading (mostly still paved - just horrible pavement)? I plan to ditch the topp case and just run panniers (maybe OEMs) not very loaded at all - mostly just for convenience when going to and from work to store gear.

I am roughly 225# of solid steel plus normal riding gear.

Any thoughts?
Hi, I'm 6'5" and about 260 with gear and ride a 2014 non ES. I was able to hit the magic 30% sag mark at 3/4 hard preload according to our measurements. I run almost all road and some gravel. I bought the bike because it fit me and gave me the biggest bang for the buck. Love the bike!! I have not bottomed out or had any issues with the handling. I recently readjusted the front suspension based on Bushy's recommendations and it made a nice difference. The bike is quicker in the corners and seems to be more upright. Less seat tilt also. I run 32in the front and 42 in the rear. Other than that, the bike handles very well for my style of riding. Until I ride something different or start to run too close to the road over bumps, or my wife starts to complain about the ride, I'm not going to change the shocks. JMHO.

Also the bike is rated for a total of 465 lbs for riders and gear. They recommend that you not use a top box if you are caring a passenger and gear for a long trip. Again, I might not ride as hard as the rest of you but the stock set up works for me.

Greg.
 

Don T

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
358
Location
Denmark
Thank you Bushyar15 for sharing your thoughts and experience with dialing in the suspension!

After little over a years ownership of my S10, I was much in the same situation as the one you described in the first post - I just couldn't figure out how to set up the suspension of the S10 to my liking.
I tried the adjustments you suggested. It improved things considerably and after a few further adjustments (a bit less preload as I'm lighter then you) the suspension now works impressively well and much better than I had imagined it could.

Cheers
Tonny
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
31
Location
York, PA
Just did the suspension settings recommended here, fork preload was a big change, forks c/r were I think spot on. Shock preload takes it to almost exactly one line off full hard. Thanks again for the settings can't wait to try them out.

Mike
 

jeepinoutwest

Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Messages
66
Location
USA
Hi Guys, so I recently bought an ES version. Is there a conversion chart to explain how to set up an ES bike? I'm about 200lbs with gear and typically have 20lbs of luggage. Is there a proper setting for on road, then a different set up for off road? Sorry for the lack of knowledge if this is a really stupid question.
 

Sierra1

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Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
4,946
Location
DFW-TEXAS
The book shows 450lb TOTAL cargo limit, including rider(s). "I" would think that "you" could get away with one helmet, and luggage when appropriate. I am thinking 200lbs per helmet, which would allow 50lbs for luggage. Adjust as needed. Just try different settings, and find which works best. I weigh 310ish, and use two helmets. Rebound dampening is set to soft/-3. When loaded to max, my rebound is set to soft/hard/+3, depending on road surface. It's all subjective....have fun finding your sweet spot. ::001::
 

Thrasherg

Active Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2017
Messages
223
Location
Dallas, TX
Okay Peeps, I have loved reading the 8 pages on this topic, but it's all for you poor folks with the standard suspension!! ::013:: what about us rich morons that bought the ES model? We don't have many clicks to play with!! What can we do to improve the ride? I am 6'2" tall and weigh 175lbs, I fitted a stiffer rear spring (can't remember the actual value) and got the correct rear sag, the front sag is not adjustable but actually measured okay for my weight. I currently have it set up in standard settings for everything!! Has anyone found a setting that makes a noticeable difference to the ride? I love the convenience of the ES suspension, but I want to get it set correctly first and then have the convenience of fine tuning it electronically!! Does anyone sell aftermarket front springs for the ES model? Can we use non-ES springs in the front? I assume gold valves or Penske valves are out of the question?

How do we get the ES crowd to join in this fun and games???

Gary
 

Sierra1

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Nov 7, 2016
Messages
4,946
Location
DFW-TEXAS
Define "ride". I know for a FACT that the ES rebound/dampening adjustment(s) work like a charm. My wife and I were riding on a road that had dips, causing the bike to wallow and ride like a pogo stick. Cranked it up to hard, and the same dips felt like small bumps. My asked, in amazement, "what did you do?!". It made THAT big of a difference. It should also be noted that, with her & I, we're at the GVWR. I adjust on the fly regularly; our roads have huge differences in surface conditions. BUT, my experiences are on pavement; you may be speaking about the off-road "ride".
 

From A2B

New Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2018
Messages
14
Location
UK
Re: Do Yourself a Favor and Adjust Your Suspension.

Sure. BTW I took it out yesterday for a proper off-road ride and the changes were definitely a vast improvement over the stock settings.

Rather than try to scan pictures or take pictures, I'll reference the Owner's Manual that came with my bike and should have come with everyone's bike.

DISCLAIMER: The following is what I did. I take no responsibility if you strip, over tighten or screw up your suspension in any shape, manner, or form doing what I did...

For Front/Fork Preload Setting: Page 4-25, First picture. Spring Preload Adjusting Bolt - Turn in direction "A" (clockwise) till there are 3 lines showing above the Front fork cap bolt. Reference the second photo in the manual to see how they count lines). Use a box wrench or socket to turn these bolts or you could slip and bugger up the bolts. They'll work, just looked "hacked"

Fork Rebound - Page 4-26 Fork Rebound is on top of the forks Using a flatblade, carefully turned in direction "A" (clockwise) till they stopped. DO NOT use excessive force!!!! I then counted 6 clicks in direction "B", counter-clockwise

Fork Compression - Page 4-26, second diagram on the page - using a flatblade screw driver turn in direction "A" (clockwise) till they stopped. DO NOT use excessive force!!!! I then counted 6 clicks in direction "B", counter-clockwise

I ENSURED BOTH FORK LEGS HAD THE EXACT SAME AMOUNT OF CLICKS and lines showing.

Rear Shock Preload Page 4-27 - First diagram. Put the motorcycle on the Center-stand, turn the knob in direction "A" (Clockwise) till the indicator is even with "HARD".

Rear shock Rebound Damping, Page 4-27 Second Diagram Turn in Direction "A" till it stops. (Clockwise if you are laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the shock). Then turn 6 clicks in direction "B" (Counter-clockwise if you are laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the shock)


Thats what I did :)
I’ve enjoyed reading this informative thread.

So I have managed to get to 60mm laden sag; quite close to the 57mm figure. I still have a another line/increment on the preload adjuster to get closer to the ideal 1/3 laden sag.

One question though. My adjustings have been done with virtually an empty fuel tank, so will a full tank compress the forks and raise the back or will I expect my laden sag to be further away from the ideal 57mm after fuelling at the weekend?

Thanks in advance.
 

From A2B

New Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2018
Messages
14
Location
UK
I’ve enjoyed reading this informative thread.

So I have managed to get to 60mm laden sag; quite close to the 57mm figure. I still have a another line/increment on the preload adjuster to get closer to the ideal 1/3 laden sag.

One question though. My adjustings have been done with virtually an empty fuel tank, so will a full tank compress the forks and raise the back or will I expect my laden sag to be further away from the ideal 57mm after fuelling at the weekend?

Thanks in advance.
Well now it’s the weekend and to answer my own question, laden sag did increase by 3mm with a full tank of fuel.
 

braadjo

New Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
12
Hi.
I am a new user here at the forum, and also a new owner of a 2012 Super tenere with 30000 km at the ODO meter.
Situated i Bergen Norway. The previous owner weight approximatly 260 lbs, but my Weight is 180. The bike is rather stiff for me based on his setup. Anyone that can post me a proper setup for the suspension, based on 90/10 pavment and gravel roads. Then i can do the fine tuning after.
Best regard
Jan from Bergen Norway.
 

Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
Joined
Jul 1, 2017
Messages
1,930
Location
Denmark
Sorry, not easy to say, but I would set it at factory standard.
And I have tried to explain a bit, in you intro :)
 

U.P.rider

I M A UPR
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
193
Location
Eastern Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Re: Do Yourself a Favor and Adjust Your Suspension.

Sure. BTW I took it out yesterday for a proper off-road ride and the changes were definitely a vast improvement over the stock settings.

Rather than try to scan pictures or take pictures, I'll reference the Owner's Manual that came with my bike and should have come with everyone's bike.

DISCLAIMER: The following is what I did. I take no responsibility if you strip, over tighten or screw up your suspension in any shape, manner, or form doing what I did...

For Front/Fork Preload Setting: Page 4-25, First picture. Spring Preload Adjusting Bolt - Turn in direction "A" (clockwise) till there are 3 lines showing above the Front fork cap bolt. Reference the second photo in the manual to see how they count lines). Use a box wrench or socket to turn these bolts or you could slip and bugger up the bolts. They'll work, just looked "hacked"

Fork Rebound - Page 4-26 Fork Rebound is on top of the forks Using a flatblade, carefully turned in direction "A" (clockwise) till they stopped. DO NOT use excessive force!!!! I then counted 6 clicks in direction "B", counter-clockwise

Fork Compression - Page 4-26, second diagram on the page - using a flatblade screw driver turn in direction "A" (clockwise) till they stopped. DO NOT use excessive force!!!! I then counted 6 clicks in direction "B", counter-clockwise

I ENSURED BOTH FORK LEGS HAD THE EXACT SAME AMOUNT OF CLICKS and lines showing.

Rear Shock Preload Page 4-27 - First diagram. Put the motorcycle on the Center-stand, turn the knob in direction "A" (Clockwise) till the indicator is even with "HARD".

Rear shock Rebound Damping, Page 4-27 Second Diagram Turn in Direction "A" till it stops. (Clockwise if you are laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the shock). Then turn 6 clicks in direction "B" (Counter-clockwise if you are laying on your back looking up at the bottom of the shock)


Thats what I did :)
Thanks for this info! I am coming from a 1992 Vmax where adjusting the suspension is by tensioning rear shock spring rate (Progressive shocks on an extended swingarm) and forks by adding progressive springs but one of our vendors came up with a spring pressure adjusting fork cap which really helped it from stock. I have a '16 ES but not sure if that is the only tuning for the rear? The forks will be new territory with multiple adjustments with spring preload, compression and rebound. I cannot wait until spring when I can bring her out of hibernation and get more seat time than the 15 min I had when purchasing.
 

pilleway

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
207
Location
Mexico
Hi guys!
Hi guys!

Bushyar15, WHAT A GREAT TOPIC!!!, I did enjoyed reading and folloing all the comments.
Bushy I do have a question regarding the front end! I starded from the standard setting and followed your recomendations, what about droping the front end 10mm and it will have a much quicker steering response, any comment on this.
I'll drop the fornt end 10mm or less drop in the front end to feel it, I think my S10 will be nice to have a quicker steering response! I have done some evasive meneuvers and fill it heavy as it is reason I would try lowering the FE.
Regards, and thanks again for this great thread!
Have a nice week end!
PD It is great to have these type of threads available in the forum as a reference, great sharing information and knowledge.
 
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