Anyone here have any idea what would cause this to happen? The bike has 54,000 miles on it and I have not had any running issues so far. I did just install new tires and a new battery. The bike will start back up once you turn the key off and then back to on. It will not start with the clutch pulled in without turning the key off.
Super Tenere stops running after cruise control drops off two or three times
- Thread starter 970mike
- Start date
What?
Will it start in neutral, clutch out? If you just changed your battery, recheck your connections, and ground. As far ass the cruise control issue, did you get the recall done? What year is the bike?2015 and I have replaced the front brake switch before I knew that it was a warranty issue.What?
Battery connections are good.
The bike will just stop running after the cruise control kicks itself off. It will only restart after turning the key off and letting it start another cycle of starting. The bike does not care if you stop the bike and put it in neutral or just by pulling in the clutch still going down the road and turning the key off and back on.
This happened five times in 100 miles.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Is the cruise kicking off by itself or is this happening when the cruise is cancelled normally such as by brake or clutch activation?
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DamMechanic
Active Member
Do you have the problem with the old battery?
Squibb
Well-Known Member
First, we need to know what codes are showing in diagnostic mode, available through the dash on a 2015.
Particularly, I'm wondering what readings are showing at D:14 or D:15, one of the TPSs.
IIRC, Throttle 2 is responsible for delivering a high idle when cold as well as the CC link. Maybe someone with the manual can confirm.
Like others, I was wondering what led to the battery replacement, indeed whether the replacement is good. A low CCA performance can lead to chasing electrical gremlins whilst the alternator replenishes the battery following a cold start.
BTW, have the TBs been resynced recently & is the rubber port cap installed & in good condition?
Particularly, I'm wondering what readings are showing at D:14 or D:15, one of the TPSs.
IIRC, Throttle 2 is responsible for delivering a high idle when cold as well as the CC link. Maybe someone with the manual can confirm.
Like others, I was wondering what led to the battery replacement, indeed whether the replacement is good. A low CCA performance can lead to chasing electrical gremlins whilst the alternator replenishes the battery following a cold start.
BTW, have the TBs been resynced recently & is the rubber port cap installed & in good condition?
Cruise control just shuts itself off without doing anything, you can reactivate it two or three times and then the engine just dies. Voltage is good on the battery as I have a voltage gauge on the dash and all gauges are still working.
This is a replacement battery that was replaced under warranty, never had this problem before in 54,000 miles.
Not having the problem before the new battery, I would take the battery out and load test it. The bike hates bad/marginal batteries, and likes to do weird things when it does have a marginal battery. Bad batteries can still show good voltage. Always go for the last thing done.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
I’ve heard of CC problems but never associated with engine shutdown. That’s the head scratcher for me. Mine has stalled a couple times at low speed with the clutch pulled in, but not associated with the CC.
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The only code I could get showed DIAG 09 DATA 13.0 not sure what that means.
+1. I've had a few bad "good" batteries. But, yeah, I missed it at first. If the only thing changed was the battery, and now it's acting up . . . .
You said that the battery was replaced under warranty. What was it doing that caused the replacement, and how old was it that they covered it?
The battery is an Antigravity that has the restart technology and on the old battery if you left the key on for more then one minute the battery would go into the shut down mode and you would have to plug it into the tender to reactivate it. That battery was just under three years old and the warranty is three years. That battery had plenty of power to start the bike without any assistance from a charger.
I have an Antigravity battery in my Honda ST1300 that is almost ten years old and has almost 200,000 miles on it and it is still going strong. The ST has over 240,000 miles on it and this is the only replacement battery on a 15 year old bike.
Squibb
Well-Known Member
So, Antigravity Restart lithium - Are you sure this isn't the sleep function still cutting in & shutting down the electrical systems.
IIRC, these batteries are sensitive to under/over charging scenarios, as well as parasitic drain, which can confuse the tech.
You appear to have 13 volts standing (D:09) - I think that is measured at the fuel pump. If you connect a multimeter across the battery terminals, what readings are showing as you start & then rev the engine, up to say 4000 rpm. If the readings dip below 10.5 v at start &/or exceed 14.6v at 4k rpm, then the battery protection systems may cut in. You have seen one of these batteries fail, so your bike's charging system could be the common denominator.
Parasitic drain is a whole different can of worms - best disconnect any after market accessories, lights/nav/heated gear/sockets as these are the most likely problem areas & work from there.
IIRC, these batteries are sensitive to under/over charging scenarios, as well as parasitic drain, which can confuse the tech.
You appear to have 13 volts standing (D:09) - I think that is measured at the fuel pump. If you connect a multimeter across the battery terminals, what readings are showing as you start & then rev the engine, up to say 4000 rpm. If the readings dip below 10.5 v at start &/or exceed 14.6v at 4k rpm, then the battery protection systems may cut in. You have seen one of these batteries fail, so your bike's charging system could be the common denominator.
Parasitic drain is a whole different can of worms - best disconnect any after market accessories, lights/nav/heated gear/sockets as these are the most likely problem areas & work from there.
The voltage using a multi-meter is 13.4 after pulling it off the battery tender, 11.3 when starting, and 14.2 when started.
There are no parasitic draws on the battery as everything extra is hooked up to a fuse panel with a relay that only comes alive when the key is turned on.
I have another battery that I can test the bike with to either confirm or deny another battery problem.
I'd say that's the culprit. It's just going into shut down mode after not functioning correctly. Have to replace that battery.
DamMechanic
Active Member
Just put a regular battery in it and be done.
OK I installed another good battery and I am still having the same problem. I just got back from a 60 mile ride using the cruise control and the bike died 5 times.
scott123007
Well-Known Member
Once you start it, will it keep running without stopping if you don' set the cruise?