Super Tenere PC-8 kit from Eastern Beaver

[Kevs]

As per caption, has anyone here ordered this frm Jim?

Got mine yesterday, yet to mount.

Had initially wanted to DIY the power distribution to save cost, but as work is hectic here in S'pore, hardly have time to sit down.
So had them ordered instead to try it out.

But my concern now is that, as per stated in the PC-8 Installation page, per switched circuitry is max 15A.

Now, Im going hook up a pair of Hella Micro DE fogs, Hella Supertone Twintone horns, and maybe some day LED running lights and rear LED strobe lights.
Dont need grip heater or clothes heater in my hot & humid country here..
The horn and auxiliary LEDs wont be consuming much power draw, my main concern is the foglights.

As perviously DIY-ed on my ex bike, I use 20A per fog lamp. But now with the PC-8, the max is 15A...

Will there be any problem, if I use 15A per fog when switched on?
Like wire over heating or fuse short?

 

[Don in Lodi]

The LED idea is a non-issue. How many watts are the fogs?

 

[Firefight911]

You'll be fine. In fact, you'll be much better off running a 15 amp fuse over the 20 amp.

A little electrical computation....

You state you are running Hella Micro DE fogs. If these are running 55 watt bulbs then....

I = W / E

where;

I = amps
W = watts
E = Volts

I = 55W divided by 12 volts

I = 4.58 amps.

Two bulbs

4.58 times 2

Overall I = 9.16 total Amps

I see you were running an individual fuse per light previously. If, in fact, that was the case and that is your preference this time around, run a 7.5 Amp fuse for each light and you are more than fine. Run a 15 Amp if running both off one circuit.

Your previous set up was way over fused. The wiring would have burned long before your 20 Amp fuse would blow. Remember, a fuse is intended to be the "weak link" by design. You want it to blow at the earliest practical sign of any over current issue. Theoretically, you could actually get away with a 5 amp fuse in each light or a 10 Amp for both but that really leaves no buffer for any slight power increase as can be faced on start up of the lights, etc. You would be changing fuses for no reason.

Fuse do not short. They are always shorted until they blow, then they are open.

As for wiring, just match what your kit comes with and make the run as short as practical and you will be completely fine. My guess is they are running a 12 gauge wire or a 14 gauge. You could get away with a 16 gauge for the single light set up but you are better off bumping up to a 14 or 12. Theory allows this but practical application dictates running a gauge up from the minimum. It reduces voltage loss, heat, and provides a better durability quotient. If you have any doubt as to what the wiring is from the manufacturer, give them a call. Just never run a wire smaller than what is recommended or provided in the kit.

Here's a table to look at.....

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

Hope this helps.

 

[Firefight911]

After re-reading my post, it is vital to add that the numbers I used above apply to a 55 W bulb. If you substitute some other wattage bulb your math changes as well as your fuse and wire requirements. Just substitute the applicable wattage, re-run your numbers, and select your wire and fuse accordingly.

::008:: ::008::

 

[Kevs]

The LED idea is a non-issue. How many watts are the fogs?

Im using Osram H3 All Season, 55w.

You'll be fine. In fact, you'll be much better off running a 15 amp fuse over the 20 amp.

A little electrical computation....

You state you are running Hella Micro DE fogs. If these are running 55 watt bulbs then....

I = W / E

where;

I = amps
W = watts
E = Volts

I = 55W divided by 12 volts

I = 4.58 amps.

Two bulbs

4.58 times 2

Overall I = 9.16 total Amps

I see you were running an individual fuse per light previously. If, in fact, that was the case and that is your preference this time around, run a 7.5 Amp fuse for each light and you are more than fine. Run a 15 Amp if running both off one circuit.

Your previous set up was way over fused. The wiring would have burned long before your 20 Amp fuse would blow. Remember, a fuse is intended to be the "weak link" by design. You want it to blow at the earliest practical sign of any over current issue. Theoretically, you could actually get away with a 5 amp fuse in each light or a 10 Amp for both but that really leaves no buffer for any slight power increase as can be faced on start up of the lights, etc. You would be changing fuses for no reason.

Fuse do not short. They are always shorted until they blow, then they are open.

As for wiring, just match what your kit comes with and make the run as short as practical and you will be completely fine. My guess is they are running a 12 gauge wire or a 14 gauge. You could get away with a 16 gauge for the single light set up but you are better off bumping up to a 14 or 12. Theory allows this but practical application dictates running a gauge up from the minimum. It reduces voltage loss, heat, and provides a better durability quotient. If you have any doubt as to what the wiring is from the manufacturer, give them a call. Just never run a wire smaller than what is recommended or provided in the kit.

Here's a table to look at.....

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

Hope this helps.

After re-reading my post, it is vital to add that the numbers I used above apply to a 55 W bulb. If you substitute some other wattage bulb your math changes as well as your fuse and wire requirements. Just substitute the applicable wattage, re-run your numbers, and select your wire and fuse accordingly.

::008:: ::008::

thanks for the heads up, finally feel at ease now..

Cheers!

::003::

 

[HoebSTer]

After re-reading my post, it is vital to add that the numbers I used above apply to a 55 W bulb. If you substitute some other wattage bulb your math changes as well as your fuse and wire requirements. Just substitute the applicable wattage, re-run your numbers, and select your wire and fuse accordingly.

::008:: ::008::

Firefight, Would we be safe off this OEM circuit if one went with the PIAA rated 100w bulb which claims to only use 55w draw each bulb? I have often wondered how they acheive this!

 

[Firefight911]

I have no personal knowledge of this light and have never worked with it BUT, 100W is 100W until proven otherwise. Obviously, technology is fully capable of providing light equivalents, such as CFLs using 3 watts but producing 40 watts of equivalent light, etc.

I would think that the only way to know would be to put an inline ammeter in place to verify.

They may be making these claims when in actuality they are using a different Kelvin scale light production process. All supposition as I have never worked with these lights though. Perhaps a call to them with the question posed in such a way to get the proper answer. "Will me existing wiring which is rated for up to 55 Watts be affected by using your light?", for example.

Caveat Emptor

 

[hojo in sc]

I'm not going to get into what your lights actually draw in terms of amps, but I think the thing to remember is NOT to exceed 15 amps of draw from the PC8 that you purchased (I have one too). If it is borderline and you add more stuff to the PC8 that draws, you risk overheating the circuit board.

What you can do in this case is use a relay so that it draws it's power from the battery and still use the PC8 to trigger the ON to the fog lights.

 

[Kevs]

I'm not going to get into what your lights actually draw in terms of amps, but I think the thing to remember is NOT to exceed 15 amps of draw from the PC8 that you purchased (I have one too). If it is borderline and you add more stuff to the PC8 that draws, you risk overheating the circuit board.

What you can do in this case is use a relay so that it draws it's power from the battery and still use the PC8 to trigger the ON to the fog lights.

Its stated from the PC-8 installation, that per switched circuitry maximum drawn amps is 15A.

So with the maths from the above, I can either split my fogs onto 1 circuit each, using 7.5A, or, combine via 15A.
So still fine within per circuit.

The PC-8 has a relay to trigger power on, thereafter, per circuitry(switched), I'll be using a relay for individual auxiliary items also.

Thanks for the heads up..