Strange Phenomenon-Help

[Mzee]

A couple of days ago from previously no issue, I started my 2010 Tenere and the bike behaved as though the battery was dying.

I went to a battery dealer who checked and said that my battery was fine and charging. He suspected that there might be an exposed wire that is causing a short-circuit.

In recent days, every time I start the bike the lighting on the instrument gauge goes out completely like I have taken out the key and then returns. Some times if I hit the start button a couple of times, it drains the battery completely that I cannot start the bike in a normal way. I have to roll down-slope (I live up hill), then start the bike in second gear.

Before I undertake an expensive replacement, I decided to seek help if anyone might suggest what to do or another might know what the problem is.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Dogdaze]

Fwiw, depending on how the dealer tested the battery, a lot of batteries will show a 'good' reading and ver low when under load. If it was not tested under load then the battery may still be faulty. Also check for the basics like loose connections.

 

[Mzee]

Fwiw, depending on how the dealer tested the battery, a lot of batteries will show a 'good' reading and ver low when under load. If it was not tested under load then the battery may still be faulty. Also check for the basics like loose connections.

.

Makes a slot of sense.

 

[2daMax]

If u hv access to a volt meter check the voltage drop when u hit the start button. Above 10V is good. Below 10V, the battery is very weak.

 

[EricV]

I agree with everything said above. Most likely you have one or more cells in the battery going bad and it doesn't hold up under load. Not sure about RSA, but here most auto parts stores that sell batteries have load testers. Make a few calls and see if a local auto part store or battery sales shop can load test your battery for you. They will want to fully charge the battery first, then put it on the tester to load test. If you don't have your own charger, this means they will likely want to charge it overnight, then test it the following morning.

 

[mebgardner]

So, ummm, how old is the cycle? How old is the battery?

Do you know how to do, how to check, the items the others here have asked you to check? If no, we can help walk you through these checks.

The battery dealer guy told you "it was charging", eh? So then, he charged it and load tested it for you? I think that's how I interpret what you written above.

 

[Hfjeff]

Electrical issues can be a pain. A female co-worker of mine said her radio in her 6 year Toyota Rav4 would not turn on and she was ready to go to a dealer and have them install a new radio. I grabbed the manual and pulled and checked the fuse that was marked radio. It was good. I then pulled a few others that I thought might be related and all were good. She got in the car after work and wha-la. It was working again. I am guessing it was some very fine corrosion on the fuse blades or socket contacts and re-seating the fuse made good contact again. If your battery is original, it is time to replace it anyway so I would start with that. Easy to do. Good luck.

 

[Ramseybella]

Fwiw, depending on how the dealer tested the battery, a lot of batteries will show a 'good' reading and ver low when under load. If it was not tested under load then the battery may still be faulty. Also check for the basics like loose connections.

Like ground contacts to the battery VIA frame or motor, lot of years, vibration and exposure to the elements.
One stupid thin layer of crud, corrosion a loose contact point can FUBAR things.
If this is the original battery, then yes i agree it's time for retirement..
My 1050 Triumph Tiger did the same thing once, it was lighting things up then it would act like it was close to death when i hit the starter.
I figured the battery was four years old so i bought a new battery charged it fully and it was better but started doing the same.
Wound up being a bad ground connection (loose and with a little corrosion) at the motor.

 

[jackintherok]

Reckon the dealer got it wrong ... battery nackered.

 

[Mzee]

::006::

If u hv access to a volt meter check the voltage drop when u hit the start button. Above 10V is good. Below 10V, the battery is very weak.

Report Back.

I took the reading of the battery and it read 8.8V. At this point it was even affecting the ABS. I bought a new battery and the problem disappeared completely. Therefore those who suggested that the problem was the battery were spot on. Thank you folks. I learnt a lot from this experience.

But the ABS light goes off and on especially when I go over a bad patch or bumpy road. Sometimes it comes on and stays until I remove the key. It does not seem to me that the ABS is faulty. How do I clear this problem? Thank you.

 

[Dogdaze]

::018::

 

[WJBertrand]

::006::
Report Back.


But the ABS light goes off and on especially when I go over a bad patch or bumpy road. Sometimes it comes on and stays until I remove the key. It does not seem to me that the ABS is faulty. How do I clear this problem? Thank you.

Are you sure you're not seeing the traction control light on the bumpy surfaces? It would be normal for it to flash on bumpy surfaces if you're trying to accelerate. Any ABS light illumination, except at initial key-on, indicates a problem and there should be a code stored.

 

[HeliMark]

::006::
Report Back.

I took the reading of the battery and it read 8.8V. At this point it was even affecting the ABS. I bought a new battery and the problem disappeared completely. Therefore those who suggested that the problem was the battery were spot on. Thank you folks. I learnt a lot from this experience.

But the ABS light goes off and on especially when I go over a bad patch or bumpy road. Sometimes it comes on and stays until I remove the key. It does not seem to me that the ABS is faulty. How do I clear this problem? Thank you.

I would check for loose ABS wires or sensor. A wire that is minimally connected due to corrosion/just works itself loose will do this. Also double check that the new battery has a good connection.

And Congrats on fixing the original issue. This bike just does not like a bad or weak battery. More so than other bikes I have had.

Mark

 

[Mzee]

Are you sure you're not seeing the traction control light on the bumpy surfaces? It would be normal for it to flash on bumpy surfaces if you're trying to accelerate. Any ABS light illumination, except at initial key-on, indicates a problem and there should be a code stored.

Negative it is not the traction light, it reads ABS. I also noticed that there are days it does not come on at all. I cleared all the stored codes. And no code registers on the dashboard.

 

[Mzee]

I would check for loose ABS wires or sensor. A wire that is minimally connected due to corrosion/just works itself loose will do this. Also double check that the new battery has a good connection.

And Congrats on fixing the original issue. This bike just does not like a bad or weak battery. More so than other bikes I have had.

Mark

Thank you Mark.

I agree the Tenere dislikes a weak battery with passion ::013:: I will continue checking and will report back.

 

[Ramseybella]

Someone posted something about checking the torque on the bolts holding the lines to the ignition solenoid.
Made his starts weak.