Stock exhaust mod

MikeBear

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I was thinking of painting exhaust cover black and took it off. With 5mm in my hand I decided to start unscrewing things >:D what I found out is I could disassemble exhaus and maybe take some of the filling out to get that sound I always wanted. It worked wonders on my R1 , but S10 does not have ExUp system like R1 does. What do you, guys , think? How much damage would it do to the bike taking some or maybe all of the filling out?
 

markjenn

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MikeBear said:
I was thinking of painting exhaust cover black and took it off. With 5mm in my hand I decided to start unscrewing things >:D what I found out is I could disassemble exhaus and maybe take some of the filling out to get that sound I always wanted. It worked wonders on my R1 , but S10 does not have ExUp system like R1 does. What do you, guys , think? How much damage would it do to the bike taking some or maybe all of the filling out?
I don't think you can do any damage to the engine if this is what you're referring to by "damage". I haven't had a S10 muffler off, but most stock exhausts have steel baffles rather than fiberglass packing, so gutting them is non-trivial.

Not a big fan of making bikes louder just for the sake of making them louder, but that's a different discussion.

- Mark
 

hANNAbONE

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...me thinks things are pretty tight in there - welded and purty solid.

You might be in for a surprise how stout that can could be.

Report back if you beat on it.
 

MikeBear

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hANNAbONE said:
...me thinks things are pretty tight in there - welded and purty solid.

You might be in for a surprise how stout that can could be.

Report back if you beat on it.
I'm not going to do it until I get some information on this. I know , that carbureted engines will run lean and will burn exhaust valve. To prevent that I had to upgrade intake and replace jets on my v-star 1100. I need to find out if ECU on s10 will be able to compensate for lean mixture that lack of back pressure will create.
 

Dylo

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Re: Re: Stock exhaust mod

MikeBear said:
I was thinking of painting exhaust cover black and took it off. With 5mm in my hand I decided to start unscrewing things >:D what I found out is I could disassemble exhaus and maybe take some of the filling out to get that sound I always wanted. It worked wonders on my R1 , but S10 does not have ExUp system like R1 does. What do you, guys , think? How much damage would it do to the bike taking some or maybe all of the filling out?
I have fiddled with silencers before and have never had a problem with any burt valves. As far as i am aware if its fuel injected the ecu will make the neccessary adjustments automatically. It may not improve the performance but should sound better. If you remove the cat it will probably improve the performance margenally.
Imho rather save up for an Akro or other system and you will know it is correct and keep the dealer happy and your warranty in tact.

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2
 

NoMorBills

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yes it can be done very easiely.



pull off the spark arrester and take an 1 1/2" hole saw and punch out the flat plated area. this leads directly to the in pipe and thus opens up the muffler.

1 1/2 or 2"

3 options here. replace spark arrester = a little sound differance
Remake a new end piece
Destroy spark arrester the size of pipe you put on end will tune the sound.



 

big dave

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just taked the back plate off my 2011 UK model and there is no access to the internals at all. I'm guessing the US and other countries have a tighter spark arrestor policy and that is the reason for the difference.

BD
 

markjenn

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The days of modifying an exhaust, having the bike run lean, and harming the engine are pretty much long gone. Today's stock bikes (and cars), for emissions and fuel economy reasons, generally run extremely lean to begin with and don't rely on excess fuel to cool the exhaust valves. I haven't heard of an instance of exhaust mods by themselves "burning a valve" in decades.

- Mark
 

NoMorBills

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I like Quiet but it seems that other drivers keept cutting into me as they didn't see or hear me. NOW THEY DO. It is a deeper tone not blappy like cans with packing.
I can still install the stock Spark Arrester for going into the forest or put on one of two other ends I made. One with a stock size down pipe that still fits the plastic cover over it to look stock( only slightly louder when under power) or one with a large exit tip that is louder all the time but not annoying on long rides.
Now They Hear Me and stay in there lane.
 

GrahamD

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I must say that after swapping the Staintunes on the DL1L for the Standard Zorst on the S10, I am having many more close calls with wildlife.

It's something I noticed when I was doing a 5 day ride with a couple of gents last year. I ended up leading we all realized that I would scatter the wildlife well before they did on their standard bikes.

I am really notioci9ng it now on the S10. I like the quiet but I may have to de-quiet it a bit for big trips.
 

oKLRider

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Followed NMB's advice the other night, and tore into a perfectly good exhaust! >:D

Pulled the endcap/spark arrestor assembly. Ground down the welds holding the arrestor on, and then cut the outlet pipe down as far as I could. Cut a little passed the weld, so I had to weld the seam back up to prevent exhaust leaks.




NMB posted to either use a 1-1/2", or 2", hole saw for opening up the back plate. I chose the 'bigger is better' approach, and used a 2". ;D The cavity where the arrestor sits is ~4" deep, so cutting the hole with what I had was a bit tricky. Ended up using a series of extensions, a socket, and the hole saw bit. No pics of that, but I should've, it was comical. :D




Sooo, how does it sound? Better. Without the endcap on, it sounds awesome. Ran it down the road to make sure it wouldn't stumble (it didn't), but my l/h turn signal got pretty warm. Over time I'm sure it would melt. So I'm running the modded endcap for now. In the future I may make a larger outlet for it. Still, for 30min worth of work, and zero $, it was worth it for me.

Thanks NoMorBills! ::008:: ::001::
 

Rasher

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You could cut the headers to remove the cat and weld them back up, this is a fairly common mod on the BMW GS for those not wanting to pay up for de-catted headers, and the welds are hidden away under the motor so the bike will retain a stock look. Plus this is where most the restrictions lurk.

Aftermarket silencers can be had for under £200 new which would lead me not to bother hacking one up, you can always re-sell any aftermarket exhausts easily and get a good return, probably better than a buyer knocking you down because you have trashed the £500+ OE can to make it louder.

As stated all modern motors run weak a piss anyway, and at cruise speeds the bike is in closed loop and will most likely make up for the exhaust changes, from my dyno runs the bike is a bit rich up top, and with the clutch mod a bit rich down low (on full throttle, below 40% throttle and under 5k rpm it will be in the closed loop area anyway) without the clutch mod it runs weak down low as well.

Will be doing more tests - see thread on O2 elminators and de-cat headers.
 

NoMorBills

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Nice work Oklrider, The size of the exit pipe will make a difference in the sound. Remember the cats are still in the head pipe so you are not changing the flows much by using varying exit sizes. Just the sound.
 

Mikef5000

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MikeBear said:
I'm not going to do it until I get some information on this. I know , that carbureted engines will run lean and will burn exhaust valve.
With a catalytic converter clogging things up, no amount of muffler modification will have an effect on the engine, just add noise.

Fret not and mod away (if more sound on the cheap is what you're after!).
 

MikeBear

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Mikef5000 said:
With a catalytic converter clogging things up, no amount of muffler modification will have an effect on the engine, just add noise.

Fret not and mod away (if more sound on the cheap is what you're after!).

That is exactly what I'm after. On one side is $350-800 for slip on and 2-3 hp, that I would never feel, because I usually in 2500-4500 rpm range, on the other... Well , no money out of my pocket.
 

NoMorBills

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Low end torque suffers but a little upper HP is gained with the cat gone and the pipe opened up. And the fuel needs to be upped.

Sound is all I need the bike has plenty of punch stock. Just need others to hear me so they don't pull into me.
 

oKLRider

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MikeBear said:
That is exactly what I'm after. On one side is $350-800 for slip on and 2-3 hp, that I would never feel, because I usually in 2500-4500 rpm range, on the other... Well , no money out of my pocket.
Same boat. ::024::
 
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