Some information on Rotella T4

RCinNC

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A few years back I stopped using Rotella T4 15W-40 oil because it stopped carrying an API certification for gasoline engines. It still carried (and carries to this day) the JASO MA/MA2 certification for wet clutch engines. I was sorry to I had to stop using it, as I found that it performed just fine in the S10.

I was doing some research recently and learned that, in order for an oil to carry the JASO MA, MA1, MA2 and MB certification, it must also meet the standards for at least one of the following certifications:

API SG, SJ, SL, SM

ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3

ACEA A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, A5/B5, C2, C3

ACEA is a European standard, so I thought it was less likely that Shell’s JASO certification was attached to that, rather than to the API or ILSAC standard.

I found a graph on line from the Petroleum Quality Institute of America that shows a comparison between the API and the ILSAC oil standard. It looks like this:



The Super Tenere requires oil with an API certification of SG or higher. The API SG standard is obsolete, as is the higher standard of SH. The ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3 and GF-4 standards are also obsolete. Because both the API and the ILSAC standards are backwards compatible, a JASO certification should meet the criteria for any currently produced API standard of SJ, SL, SM, SN and SN Plus, or any currently produced ILSAC standard of GF-5, or both.

It appeared to me that, even if Rotella no longer carries an official API certification for gasoline engines, the fact that it still maintains the JASO MA/MA2 certification meant it has to meet the gasoline certification of either API or ILSAC or both.

So, I emailed Shell at their general inquiries address and asked them. I got a response back very quickly, and was advised that Rotella T4 still meets the API SN standard, which is a current API standard for gasoline engines. Since the API standard is backwards compatible, the Rotella T4 still meets Yamaha’s requirement for an oil with an API rating of SG or higher.

I thought this might be of interest to any T4 users like me, who stopped using it when the API standard for gasoline engines stopped appearing on their product. My next oil change is coming up at 101,000 miles, and I’m putting the T4 back in.
 

Fennellg

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Thanks, I Find Oils and their certifications confusing. I use T6 and call it a day. I had to use t5 once because of pandemic shortages. Just changed back. I can always tell when it is time for a oil change. My shifts get sloppy into 2nd gear. I prefer synthetic over regular a little extra insurance. But given our accelerated intervals probably a waste. Sharing oil with the transmission has its advantages and dis advantages .

I ran mobil 1 car oil in my Harley s never had a problem but the naysayers never relent and there is always a little doubt planted in your head. My T6 has the correct certification, it is affordable, and many have good longevity with it. Bang for the buck no matter synthetic or regular with Shell No Doubt !!!
 

Sierra1

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. . . . My shifts get sloppy into 2nd gear. . . .
That's how my FJ is. To the point that I don't change it until I miss a 2nd gear shift. Haven't experienced that on the Tenere yet. Probably means I'm changing sooner than needed.
 

RCinNC

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I've really never been a synthetic oil guy. I suspect it's a holdover from my old man's bias about them; he was an old school mechanic who warned me not to use them because they made gaskets leak. Probably true back in his day, not so much now, but the old lessons die hard. I've used them on occasion when they were all that was available, but my default setting is regular oil.

All the oil standards can be a bit of a maze to navigate. That's why I laid out all that dry information in my original post, just to show how I arrived at my conclusion. I even bookmarked a bunch of pages on the web just so I'd have something to refer back to.

I've also been a "car oil" guy, as far as bikes go. I used O'Reilly Auto Parts' house brand 10W-40 for about 40,000 miles in the S10, with no issues. I guess I relented on it for the same reason as you; the on line "oil experts" put that doubt in my mind that destruction was imminent because I didn't use whatever $15 bucks a quart motorcycle oil they favored. As far as my oil analysis that was done at 90,000 miles, using the O'Reilly stuff for all those miles didn't do a bit of harm to the moving parts.

Like they say, the proof's in the pudding. My oil analysis at 90 thousand showed less than average wear on engine parts, and now at 101,000 miles, it runs as good as it did on that day in 2014 when I rode out of the lot at Romney Cycles. I'm still on the original clutch. Tomorrow, when I go pick up my oil and filter, I'll renew my acquaintance with T4, and maybe even a Mobil M1-108 filter if they're out of the Wix.
 

Sierra1

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I used to use Castrol 20w-50 in the FJ, 'cuz I couldn't afford motorcycle oil. Now, I don't worry so much about the cheapest, and use OE. I know that won't let me down.
 

Fennellg

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Synthetic get you oil in places regular cant reach its to thick. But everything comes at a cost. If you have a hint of a leak it will find it. As I said our interval is so quick it negates many of the benefits. Similar results can be achieved with both. You do get a little more leeway with over heating and oil loss. But both will prove fatal to the engine eventually.
 

nd4spdbh

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Been a long time Rotella T4 and T6 5W-40 user in various things (I call out T6 5w-40 as its the only one with JASO MA cert... there is only one T4 and thats our beloved 15W40).

Anyways, I have used T6 5W-40 in all my motos for the last decade or so without issues and great shifting / clutch life from street bikes to dirtbikes.

I put the "better" T6 5W40 in the tenere when i got it and after about 200 miles shifting felt crappy... come to find out the T6 5W-40 as well as many other "wide spread" synthetics with 30+ weight difference between cold/hot rating have a LOW shear strength. The tenere final drive bevel gear output by nature of that config will chew up an oil quickly if it doesnt have good shear strength which can result in things like crappy shifting etc.

Pulled that T6 out, put a jug of T4 15w-40 in and what do ya know, buttery smooth shifts still at 3000 miles on this oil.

Synthetic has its place but in the super tenere.... likely not unless its got good shear strength.
 

Little Joe

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I did many tests on a few different oils a few years back in my 14 FJR.
(Blackstone labs).
Long story short, 15/40 RT was best by considerable margin in holding viscosity and not loosing to shear from bevel drive.
5-40 T6 was the worst( significantly).
I am presently running 15/40 T6 and will test this as well.

Preliminary miles, indicate it will fair much better than 5-40 T6.

20-50 oil is much better than 10-40 (yamalube) at preventing viscosity loss.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

audiowize

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The Super Tenere requires oil with an API certification of SG or higher.
Fixed that for you ;) I think it would be quite the challenge to find a motor oil for sale currently that is both wet clutch compatible but doesn't meet these standards.
 

RCinNC

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Fixed that for you ;) I think it would be quite the challenge to find a motor oil for sale currently that is both wet clutch compatible but doesn't meet these standards.
What did you fix? That's right out of the owner's manual, page 9-1.



It might be a challenge for someone who wasn't steeped in oil lore and was just shopping for oil based on what his owner's manual said and what he was reading on the back of an oil container. Based on posts I've read on line on various forums, many people are unaware that a JASO certification is linked to an API, ILSAC or ACEA certification; I'm certainly among that crowd. They only know what's listed on the container of oil they're thinking of buying and that their owner's manual says they need an oil that is rated as API SG or higher, and has a JASO certification. That person (especially if he's someone looking to save a little money on maintenance) might look at a jug of T4 and say "nope, can't use that, it doesn't have the right numbers". So to satisfy my own curiosity I looked up the information, showed the steps how I arrived at my conclusion, confirmed it with the manufacturer, and posted it here for anyone who, like me, wasn't aware that T4 still met the requirements for use in our bikes, even when the container lacked the certifications that the buyer would be looking for. And in the case of T4, since it's marketed as as diesel oil for trucks, heavy equipment, etc, a person who wasn't armed with the right info might totally discount it as a potential choice, since it certainly wouldn't seem at face value like it was suitable for their Super Tenere.
 

nd4spdbh

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I did many tests on a few different oils a few years back in my 14 FJR.
(Blackstone labs).
Long story short, 15/40 RT was best by considerable margin in holding viscosity and not loosing to shear from bevel drive.
5-40 T6 was the worst( significantly).
I am presently running 15/40 T6 and will test this as well.

Preliminary miles, indicate it will fair much better than 5-40 T6.

20-50 oil is much better than 10-40 (yamalube) at preventing viscosity loss.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Id be very curious as to the results of the T6 15W-40.
 

nd4spdbh

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Some of you may find this interesting:

I always love a good oil thread ;)

And this is why you use Rotella T4 15w-40, T6 5w-40 or T6 15w-40 as those are all JASO MA certified for use in motorcycles.... And to go one step further, use either of the 15w-40 as they have way better shear strength. (T4 has been thoroughly tested for this vs the T6 5w-40.... jury is still kind of out on the 15w-40 T6 as indicated above)
 

RCinNC

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I certainly agree that motorcycle oil is optimized for performance in a motorcycle, but I don't agree that means that non-motorcycle specific oil (car oil) is going to be harmful to the bike (i.e. accelerated wear).

I ride more than a lot of guys. There's now 101,000 miles on my 2014 S10. At 88,000 miles I had an oil analysis done. At that point, I had ridden the following distances using what would be called "car oil":

30,616 miles, O'Reilly Auto 10W-40
4,038 miles, Quaker State 10W-40
1841 miles, Valvoline 10W-40
22,864 miles, Rotella T4 15W-40
2,106 miles were with an oil that I forgot to record what brand it was.

With motorcycle specific oil:

9,973 miles. Yamalube 10W-40
17,527 miles, with Castrol GO 4T

So, up to 88,965 miles, 69% of them were ridden using "car oil". Blackstone Lab's report showed that wear metals were low next to averages, and their opinion was that the internal parts were getting along well.

I ride year round, and average about 11,000 miles per year. It gets hot here in summer (not like Texas hot, but hot), so riding conditions can be a little rough. I'm a pretty sedate rider; no bouncing off the rev limited, or popping wheelies. I change the oil often, sometimes even before it's due.

None of this proves anything, of course, other than as an anecdotal data point. But my own particular experience had shown me that using "car oil" in a bike (as long as it isn't energy conserving oil with friction modifiers) isn't a first class ticket to disaster.

And yep, when I changed the oil last week, I put Rotella T4 back in.
 

nd4spdbh

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None of this proves anything, of course, other than as an anecdotal data point. But my own particular experience had shown me that using "car oil" in a bike (as long as it isn't energy conserving oil with friction modifiers) isn't a first class ticket to disaster.

And yep, when I changed the oil last week, I put Rotella T4 back in.

Thats the key right there. As long as its non energy conserving you are likely perfectly fine in the tenere motor driven under normal conditions.

My tenere is a replacement for a weekend warrior canyon blasting machine, that can also do long distances comfy... it sees WOT and limiter nearly every ride (if not multiple times a ride), so ill stick with a JASO MA specd oil with good shear strength for peace of mind. That stated if I was on the road and needed to do an oil change, id have zero issue with a "car / truck" oil that didnt have energy conserving additive.
 

jeckyll

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@RCinNC I have no problem running 20w50 if I need to top up somewhere. But I wouldn't put Rotella T4 in the 'Car oil' category, it's JASON MA / MA2 approved. It's motorcycle oil, they just mislabel it when the call it a Diesel oil ;)
 

RCinNC

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@RCinNC I have no problem running 20w50 if I need to top up somewhere. But I wouldn't put Rotella T4 in the 'Car oil' category, it's JASON MA / MA2 approved. It's motorcycle oil, they just mislabel it when the call it a Diesel oil ;)
Lol, you're right, I got carried away with my math.
 
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