Shifter Sluggish

tomatocity

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I have had difficulty down shifting the Tenere since it was relatively new. The sluggishness was somewhat inconsistent so I never asked Yamaha to look into the problem. I had looked at the shifter and did not find a problem. Recently it had become worse and on the trip to Las Vegas it made me very concerned. At times I could hardly get the transmission to shift down. I could not find a problem so I returned home thinking it was internal. After I got home I loosened the pivot bolt and noticed it was not true and also noticed debris around the bushing. Used a cleaner and flushed a lot of debris. Tightened the pivot bolt... using an old hammer handle and a hammer I lightly tapped the bolt from the side... then loosened and tightened the bolt out and in to see if it were true... it was... cleaned the bushing a few more times with cleaner. Now the shifter seems to be free in both up and down shifts though I have not ridden it. Should ride test it tomorrow or the next day.
 

Brntrt

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Ditto on the same problem. After a thorough cleansing with WD40 problem gone shifts like new.


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tomatocity

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Brntrt said:
Ditto on the same problem. After a thorough cleansing with WD40 problem gone shifts like new.


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Mark
Did you check the pivot bolt for being true?
 

Brntrt

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tomatocity said:
Did you check the pivot bolt for being true?
Good point, I have had several drops on that side on loose rock. Betcha a nickel it's been compromised. Thanks.


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3putt

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Very Timely post, I had this problem on a ride couple of weeks ago, could not shift below 3rd, but thought I had stopped too quick at a sudden light to properly shift. Killed the engine on takeoff, thought I had shifted it to 1st. Later started to notice very hard to down shift below 3rd. It is still sluggish, going out to take a look now. I'm at 10,900 miles.
 

Kevhunts

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I've had the same problem on occasion but I'm having difficulty visualizing this issue, can someone post an image showing the pivot bolt "out of true"?

Edit: After looking at an image (my bike's in storage) I wonder of the binding is due to lack of lube more than alignment?
 

fender5803

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Kevhunts said:
I've had the same problem on occasion but I'm having difficulty visualizing this issue, can someone post an image showing the pivot bolt "out of true"?
I am also wondering which part. I have dropped the bike, because I'm clumbsy, a couple of times and bent the shift lever itself in just a wee bit. I never noticed it by feel, only when I was giving the bike a look over. At first I thought it came that way but pretty sure it was straight when I got her. I didn't notice any different shifting until now and the last drop was perhaps 6oo miles ago. I seem to be needing to think about the first to second shift rather than it just happening. It's probably not even that bad maybe I am losing whatever touch I had.

Ill look closer sooner or later ...
Best,
-DT

::022::
 

tomatocity

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I doubt the out of align pivot bolt caused sluggish or not shifting. The only place the bolt could have been out of align is where the threads meet the shaft of the bolt. The pivot on the shifter is not sealed and debris can get into the bushing. If the bushing was sealed we would not be discussing this issue.

I used PB Blaster to clean the bushing and did not use a lubricant. My concern with lubricant is that it will collect debris. I will test without and with lubricant. Guessing a lot of the debris is from roads treated with sand or crushed lava or and some form of powder, all that reduce slipping on ice but make a dirty road. I will be traveling with a can of PB Blaster.
 

fender5803

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tomatocity said:
I doubt the out of align pivot bolt caused sluggish or not shifting. The only place the bolt could have been out of align is where the threads meet the shaft of the bolt. The pivot on the shifter is not sealed and debris can get into the bushing. If the bushing was sealed we would not be discussing this issue.

I used PB Blaster to clean the bushing and did not use a lubricant. My concern with lubricant is that it will collect debris. I will test without and with lubricant. Guessing a lot of the debris is from roads treated with sand or crushed lava or and some form of powder, all that reduce slipping on ice but make a dirty road. I will be traveling with a can of PB Blaster.
I had no idea what PB Blaster was but it sounds great. I hope I don't need to carry a can of it with me although maybe they make a small can.
I am hoping my possible trouble is something else. I can't imagine here in South California there is that much crud on the road that after 1900 miles I'd have a build up but you never know do you. I'm thinking more that I bent something if at all ...
Anyway here is the dope on the PB Blaster:

The world famous PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst is more than just great. PB quickly brakes loose surface tension rust and corrosion by creeping up, around and in to hard-to-reach cavities. It's ideal for brake, exhaust and suspension system jobs. Plus, lubricating film remains on parts to help prevent further rusting. A true penetrant Formulated in 1957 Rust inhibitor Breaks loose surface tension of rust/frozen parts Much higher flashpoint ** 152F Non-evaporating lubricant Saves time & money by ensuring user will not have to burn off or drill out nuts & bolts or other expensive & time consuming means of repairs

Best,
DT

::022::
 

tomatocity

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I doubt I will ever have another serious problem as long as I add this to the regular maintenance list.
 

Brntrt

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tomatocity said:
I doubt I will ever have another serious problem as long as I add this to the regular maintenance list.
After looking at the pivot there are no issues. Have to agree its a matter of crud getting in there. I do a fair amount of offroad in the mud etc here in Ga. I would suspect those that spend more time on road won't have any probs.


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HoebSTer

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i will see in the manual which lubricant Yamaha recommends. As for most lub points.
 

roy

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HoebSTer said:
i will see in the manual which lubricant Yamaha recommends. As for most lub points.
Manul says

Lithium-soap based grease

First interval is 6000 miles
 

HoebSTer

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I just looked here at work, we have soap based Lithium Grease for $3.00 a tube. Its a big tube too, yippie!!! I think this will work for lots of lube points on the bike!!!! IT should last about 3 decades!!!
 

3putt

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Just home today from trip to Queen Wilhelmina State Park this weekend. Mine is getting worse. I have been experimenting and have found that if you clutch each downshift while rolling, it shifts fine, only locks up in 4th when trying to downshift without letting the clutch out and going at a slow speed. Like when you get caught all of a sudden and have to stop or almost stop for traffic, and have to down shift real quick, will not shift below 4th.

I think I will change my oil and see if that makes a difference, plus I am going to let my dealer know about it tuesday. I am using Mobil 1 4T racing synthetic. Gonna try some Amsoil 10w 40.
 

Jeff

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Well it looks like I'm having the same problem with my bike. I went on a 250 mile ride yesterday and in the last 40 miles I was having a very hard time down shifting from 4th down. Sometimes I had to take off in 2nd or 3rd. I have 7800 miles on it now so I changed the oil and I'm going to clean and lube the pivot bolt. I think I'll go to the parts store and see if they have any Lithium soap based grease. I sure hope that does it!
 
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