Shifter mods to adapt for bad left foot?

[elizilla]

Hey gang, I haven't been around much lately. This is because I am sad. I haven't ridden my Super10 since May 2013. Why? Because I am having some medical problems and I can't manage the Super10 very comfortably. I have what is called "drop foot" in my left foot. It's due to damaged nerves and it's not going to get any better. My balance is fine but my leg is weak, and the worst thing is trying to lift my toe to shift gears. Just getting the bike out of the parking place and getting the foot picked up and onto the foot peg, uses up my strength and leaves me with nothing left to operate that gear shifter.

But before I just give up on my wonderful Super10, I decided to post and see if anyone has suggestions for modifying it. Because I really do love the bike.

For the Ural sidecar outfit I was able to order a tank shifter kit. It actually works pretty well, though it's kinda slow and awkward to shift using my right hand on a knob on the tank. And it's quite the rube goldberg device, completely mechanical with tons of pivots and levers. But it bolted right on and made a huge difference to my ability to ride.

I am wondering if anyone has seen any kind of adaptive shifting device for a Super10, or which could be modified to fit the Super10. Maybe a solenoid operated paddle shifter where I could put a push button next to the grip?

Today I went to the Honda dealer to ask for a quote on an NC700X with the dual clutch automatic. But if the Super10 can be modded, it won't be necessary.

 

[Mikeybikey57]

Try these people elizilla: http://www.disabledmotorcyclerider.com/ They stock a british device called Kliktronic http://www.kliktronic.co.uk/ push button gear changer, which a friend of mine fitted to his FJR after having similar problems with his left foot. It was a good chunk of money to buy but he fitted the universal kit himself and it works superbly for him. Good luck with your quest……………you've just got to keep hold of your S10 ::008::

 

[EricV]

Another option would be to fabricate, or have Jaxon at Ride On ADV fabricate, a heel toe shifter. Some decades ago when I was stuck in a left leg cast for 6 months, I did this for the bike I was riding at the time. Heel down for up shifts, toe down for down shifts. This was with foot peg, not floor boards, and worked fine. I never did take it off when I finally got out of the cast. It was easy to adapt myself to the shifter and since I could raise my entire leg to shift either up or down, tolerated a wide range of placement on the shifter. Just make sure the rear peg is far enough back to not get in teh way while riding with your normal foot placement on the peg.

This could be done as simply as having a piece of flat bar welded to the existing shifter and drilling a hole, installing a bolt with some fuel line over it for the rear peg. A little creativity on how it's welded on, but not rocket science.

Don't give up.

 

[tubebender]

EricV's suggestion is the most cost effective and the first thing I thought of.

Quick Google search brought this up. Not cheap (approx $800) but cheaper than a new bike
https://www.denniskirk.com/272230.sku?utm_source=shopping&utm_medium=cse

There is always some way to do it.

 

[sportrider]

I own an orthotic and prosthetic company. Afo (ankle foot orthosis) brace will support your drop foot. Couple options for you: 1. Custom solid brace to hold your foot in desired postion (90 degrees (neutral) or 5-10 degrees lifted). 2. Custom afo with spring assist ankle joint to pick up your toes when foot is unweighted. 3. Cheapest option is prefab brace called dynamic walk from fillauer. I got my friend back to riding.

 

[snakebitten]

You guys are amazing.

 

[creggur]

You guys are amazing.

^^^ THIS ^^^

 

[tomatocity]

The members of this forum have a wealth of knowledge and caring. Katherine you are in very good hands.

 

[elizilla]

Wow, thanks guys! Lots of interesting stuff to think about. The other thing I am thinking about, is getting a nice sidecar for it, like a Hannigan. Last summer I bought a used K75 with a Hannigan and it was like night and day compared to the Ural, the handling was superb. Those guys really know what they're doing. I'd have kept it except I just didn't like the bike. Unfortunately they don't have a Super10 kit and it would be super expensive. Decisions decisions...

 

[TommyBwell]

I am in a very similar situation and regretfully sold my S10 late last year. I bought a Honda CTX because the NC was too cramped for me. The CTX has a miserable riding position but the DCT is awesome. If the NC works for you it is not a terrible option. I am also working on modifications so I can get back on an S10. I am going to get a 14 and have ideas to modify the shifter but first I am going to try an attachment to my boot. Good luck and don't give up.

 

[EricV]

After looking at the shift lever for a while, I would probably turn a bushing on the lathe for the main pivot, with an inside grease groove and a zirc fitting hole drilled and tapped into it.

Then take a piece of .25" thick steel flat bar stock and drill a hole for the outside diameter of the bushing, make a couple of bends on each end to allow the peg to be out from the bike somewhat, drill holes in the ends for the peg and one more for the rod connection and just round off the ends and edges, then weld the bushing in at the desired angle for the zirc to be accessible. The rod connection can probably be sourced at a local supply shop or perhaps even Fastenal or a good hardware store. Just need to measure the oem part and match that size.

Then install a couple of bolts with fuel line over them for pegs and try it out. Make it pretty once you like how it functions. Or not. The first draft would use a wider bar stock than necessary, but that's not going to hurt the function any. Extra material removal can be done later, if desired.

 

[True Grip]

I'm pulling for you Katherine and miss you being on here. You have always helped us and have brought so much to the forum.
I hope a solution can be found. Wishing you many miles !!!!