shakes after tyre change

OldRider

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Checkswrecks said:
I'm with the guys suspecting the tire. Assuming that you don't have a wheel balancer, try backing the brake pistons into the calipers or even removing the calipers, support the bike with the front wheel off the ground, and give it a light spin a half dozen times. You are looking to see if the same part of the tire always stops at the bottom.
There's too much friction in the greased bearings and the spacers touching the seals to do this. The only way to static balance is to put the coned shaft through the wheel and put it in a balancing stand.
 

Don in Lodi

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OldRider said:
There's too much friction in the greased bearings and the spacers touching the seals to do this. The only way to static balance is to put the coned shaft through the wheel and put it in a balancing stand.

::008::
 

Den

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All comments taken on board, will shake wheel about as instructed to check for shakes/wobble, and I'll also go back to the shop for the guys to remove wheel/valve stem/tyre and refit the lot with a balance at the end. Fekin hope I get this sorted soon as I have a road trip planned 10 days from now.
 

Den

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Ok so I got the Mrs to sit on the passenger seat to raise the front wheel and gave it a good shake left & right up & down (front wheel....not wife!) all seemed fine.

Went back to shop had them remove tyre and the L shaped stem. Checked rim only on balance machine for true(ness?) nothing unusual. Fitted standard rubber stem and tyre inflated to correct pressure. Fitted on bike and went for a short ride. So far the problem seems to have gone, however as I live in the city centre and it was rush hour I didn't have the opportunity to test it at length. Will give it a whirl on Saturday on some open stretches of road hoping that this is the end of the problem...
 

Checkswrecks

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Hoping they got it.


If the shake is gone, don't be too quick to blame the valve stem especially if the tire/wheel was balanced. Sometimes just reseating the tire on the wheel will do wonders.
 

greg the pole

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Den said:
Ok so I got the Mrs to sit on the passenger seat to raise the front wheel and gave it a good shake left & right up & down (front wheel....not wife!) all seemed fine.

Went back to shop had them remove tyre and the L shaped stem. Checked rim only on balance machine for true(ness?) nothing unusual. Fitted standard rubber stem and tyre inflated to correct pressure. Fitted on bike and went for a short ride. So far the problem seems to have gone, however as I live in the city centre and it was rush hour I didn't have the opportunity to test it at length. Will give it a whirl on Saturday on some open stretches of road hoping that this is the end of the problem...
I'm glad you didn't shake your wife ::015::
with 22k km, the bearings should be fine, but it's good to double check from time to time.

glad you got it sorted out
 

Den

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Thanks guys, and everyone else who chipped in with ideas and suggestions...its a reassuring feeling having literally a world of friendly experience at ones finger tips ::012::

A friend also said sometimes it can take a few 100 kms for a new tyre to bed in to its new 'surroundings', which seems reasonable. Fingers crossed...will give a final update post road trip all things being well ::008::
 

RCinNC

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Yeah, honestly, it would be tough to convince me that it was the valve stem too, especially in light of the fact that some guys don't balance their tires at all and don't have any issues. If it's fixed though, that's the important part.
 

greg the pole

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Den said:
Thanks guys, and everyone else who chipped in with ideas and suggestions...its a reassuring feeling having literally a world of friendly experience at ones finger tips ::012::

A friend also said sometimes it can take a few 100 kms for a new tyre to bed in to its new 'surroundings', which seems reasonable. Fingers crossed...will give a final update post road trip all things being well ::008::
I'm pretty sure a tire bead will seat or not seat. When I do my tires, you can clearly see and hear ::013:: when the tire seats. MOst tires have a very small line around the circumference of the tire. that line usually sits right on the rim, if it's not at the same level all the way around...something is not right.
 

RCinNC

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Last time I did mine, I got the double pop, but one of them sounded a little weird. When I checked the bead, it hadn't seated completely all the way around the rim; there was a little section that wasn't all the way up against the rim. I added more air and it seated the rest of the way, but I think if I hadn't already been familiar with what a seating bead was supposed to sound like, I might have thought I was done when I heard the two pops. It's only happened that one time, but it is possible. I don't know if it would have affected the handling or not if I'd ridden it that way.
 

holligl

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OldRider said:
There's too much friction in the greased bearings and the spacers touching the seals to do this. The only way to static balance is to put the coned shaft through the wheel and put it in a balancing stand.
Interesting position as the service manual prescribes spinning on the axle. Did mine recently using this technique. The front was well balanced and had totally random stops. The rear was not balanced with the new tire and would freely rotate to the heavy spot +/- ~1" using the service manual approach. Random results after adding sufficient weight. So far it seems to be Vibration free. Granted, I have not pressed the Mitas E-07s anywhere close to their speed limits.
 

OldRider

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holligl said:
Interesting position as the service manual prescribes spinning on the axle. Did mine recently using this technique. The front was well balanced and had totally random stops. The rear was not balanced with the new tire and would freely rotate to the heavy spot +/- ~1" using the service manual approach. Random results after adding sufficient weight. So far it seems to be Vibration free. Granted, I have not pressed the Mitas E-07s anywhere close to their speed limits.
With the front wheel mounted in the bike you're going to have friction from the packed greased bearings, the spacers rubbing in the seals, along with the spacer between the bearings making contact with the axle. There is no way to static balance a wheel on the bike. The wheel will stop at random spots if it can't turn freely. Off the bike you can get it a lot closer. I still have a wooden stand I made back in the 70's to balance wheels. With the wheel off the bike and the bearings tapped away from the center spacer we could get the balance close if there wasn't too much drag in the bearings. If you want to static balance your wheels the only way to get it right is with a shaft running through the wheel and cones in the bearings. The shaft will set in some small needle bearings. I've done wheels like this where I was using a pair of side cuts to cut small specks of lead off the weights to get it perfect.
 

Jono49

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Den said:
Thanks guys, and everyone else who chipped in with ideas and suggestions...its a reassuring feeling having literally a world of friendly experience at ones finger tips ::012::

A friend also said sometimes it can take a few 100 kms for a new tyre to bed in to its new 'surroundings', which seems reasonable. Fingers crossed...will give a final update post road trip all things being well ::008::
Pleased it worked out for you Den ::008:: Those 90° tyre valves have no place on anything but a scooter! here's some pics of my stricken Honda Blackbird back in 2010, note the scrubbed outside edge where the soft tyre made it slide ???
 

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Checkswrecks

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OldRider said:
With the front wheel mounted in the bike you're going to have friction from the packed greased bearings, the spacers rubbing in the seals, along with the spacer between the bearings making contact with the axle. There is no way to static balance a wheel on the bike. The wheel will stop at random spots if it can't turn freely. Off the bike you can get it a lot closer. I still have a wooden stand I made back in the 70's to balance wheels. With the wheel off the bike and the bearings tapped away from the center spacer we could get the balance close if there wasn't too much drag in the bearings. If you want to static balance your wheels the only way to get it right is with a shaft running through the wheel and cones in the bearings. The shaft will set in some small needle bearings. I've done wheels like this where I was using a pair of side cuts to cut small specks of lead off the weights to get it perfect.

It occurred to me after seeing your original response that when I've done this I've got the brake pads out of contact and loosened the axle nut. That's why after seeing your response about not being able to work I didn't write back. I agreed with you. Yes, I've got a balance stand when working at home and it works better. But for changing a tire when not at home, I've also had enough success with a loose axle to know it'll find a heavy spot.


And for a member trying to see if his problem was a tire so far out of balance to create a wobble, that would have been sufficient.


Cheers
::003::
 
R

RonH

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Glad it worked too, but just for the record, those valve stems a couple posts back look like the factory Honda GL1800 stems. They are rubber going in the wheel. On a GL1800 there is a plastic retainer on the wheel that keeps centrifical force from breaking the stem at the rubber. Even with that, they do fail. If you use a solid metal 90 degree stem there is no problem with them at all. Just for info. Anyone wants a 90 degree stem, buy the solid metal. Don't use the Honda stems.
 
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