Seat and panel install, HARD !

tullymars

New Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
27
Location
Struggleville, Ga.
Ive had my S10 for four years and really enjoy it but two things I hate about it are, putting the seat on and screwing the button head allen bolts on the panels, they are so hard to install.
Is there something I dont know to make both easier ?
 

bimota

Moderator
Staff member
Global Moderator
Joined
Dec 10, 2017
Messages
6,739
Location
bridgend, Wales, UK
Ive had my S10 for four years and really enjoy it but two things I hate about it are, putting the seat on and screwing the button head allen bolts on the panels, they are so hard to install.
Is there something I dont know to make both easier ?
my seats a pig to 8 yrs and everytime i try to put it back on it will not lock i keep picking it up looking at it trying again

gets on my nerves

rob
 

lund

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Messages
811
Location
Okanagan Valley, Canada.
Interesting, maybe because I'm a tech by trade but I find it to be one of the easiest thing to do and the S10 in general is easy. You should try a GS, not difficult but a pain, those Germans do things differently for sure.
The fit and finish is extremely good on the s10, if you try to make things fit you will struggle and possibly break things. Like most things the trick is NOT make it fit but to make it naturally fall into place without forcefully making it fit, like I said the fit and finish is very good.
Some times looking at the mounting surfaces and getting a mental picture on how it fits together will help over just fighting with the panel. This is especially true with the seat.
The seat hooks in and then the latching has to lineup, if it doesn't it will not lock. Getting down and visually looking for alignment can help. Plus making sure the latch itself is not stiff or in a closed position.

BTW, if your using that awesome allen wrench from under the seat, my advice is spend the coin and go buy a real tool.
Get your self a long handled allen screw driver, it makes a huge difference with the panels.
 
Last edited:

Cycledude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2016
Messages
4,049
Location
Rib lake wi
Ive had my S10 for four years and really enjoy it but two things I hate about it are, putting the seat on and screwing the button head allen bolts on the panels, they are so hard to install.
Is there something I dont know to make both easier ?
For the side panel screws-latches I use a Harbor Freight T Allen wrench . It does take a little getting used to those fasteners but once you get used to them they work pretty slick.

Do you happen to be using a aftermarket seat ? My experience aftermarket seats are more difficult to install on a Tenere even if they are using the original seat pan.
 

whisperquiet

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
741
Location
Southern Illinois
I often release the latch with the key when re-installing the front seat + push the front seat backward to fully seat the seat tongue into the frame. Then, release/lock the latch.

The S10 is a piece of cake compared to installing the optional Tenere 700 tall one piece Rally seat I use.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,541
Location
Ventura, CA
I thought it was just me! I almost always fight with the seat putting it back on, but every once in a while it just plops right in. Can’t figure out what I do differently in those cases. Same with a struggle, all of the sudden it finally goes.

Regarding the panel screws, I don’t seem to have any problems with the captured 1/4 turn ones, but the other screw-in ones are another story. Every time I remove those panels, at least one of them refuses to start. I end up wasting 10-20 minutes sometimes. I wish Yamaha has used some screws with a bit of non-threaded lead-ins at the tips.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

whisperquiet

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
741
Location
Southern Illinois
I thought it was just me! I almost always fight with the seat putting it back on, but every once in a while it just plops right in. Can’t figure out what I do differently in those cases. Same with a struggle, all of the sudden it finally goes.

Regarding the panel screws, I don’t seem to have any problems with the captured 1/4 turn ones, but the other screw-in ones are another story. Every time I remove those panels, at least one of them refuses to start. I end up wasting 10-20 minutes sometimes. I wish Yamaha has used some screws with a bit of non-threaded lead-ins at the tips.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Those side panel screws on the left cowl can be a PITA for sure. I usually lightly install the top screw first and then use an awl to center the lower screw’s path for installation. I have wasted quite a bit on them also in the last ten years.

I also installed a tapered screw with an inverted rubber cup washer to replace the left front tank mount screw. I can snug it down or remove it with my fingers without an ill sized Allen wrench.
 

MFP

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 9, 2018
Messages
1,417
Location
NYC, NY
With the seat off and the key in the seat lock, lightly twist the key left to right while applying some white lithium grease on the exposed cable for the seat locking mechanism.
You should then have a smoother, positive seat lock on the first attempt.
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,259
Location
IL/AZ
My seat isn't a problem. I actually remove it every fillup to remove and replace the tank bag.

I used to struggle with the threaded panel screws, even bought some replacements. I have learned the harder you push to start them, the more they will resist. Use only light pressure, even starting them by hand without any driver. Get them all started before tightening any. Pay attention to the angle of the screw nut. If one resists, I will move to the next hole. Very few problems now, but I feel your frustration.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Tenman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
2,112
Location
Natchez Ms USA
For the side panel screws-latches I use a Harbor Freight T Allen wrench . It does take a little getting used to those fasteners but once you get used to them they work pretty slick.

Do you happen to be using a aftermarket seat ? My experience aftermarket seats are more difficult to install on a Tenere even if they are using the original seat pan.
I think you are on to something there. I got a new seat pan when I had my custom seat made. It's been harder to get on ever since. I use a cheap electric screw driver on the left panel screws with just a little pressure. The top front screw is the worst for me. I found if I stick something behind it and pry out a little. It starts a easier. I've had to let it rest and come back before. The radiator heat might distort it a little.
 

T4ten

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2018
Messages
82
Location
York, UK
Don't recall if you can do this on the original seat but on my Sargent I took the front catch thing off and added a washer. This gives it a little more length. I think the number of washers might vary depending on whether the seat flattening mod has been done. I then turn the key whilst pushing the seat down and it goes on easily. Hope that makes sense and helps.
 

tullymars

New Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
27
Location
Struggleville, Ga.
I have all the proper tools, thats not the problem.
getting the seat to line up and lock, and the panel screws is really hard to get them started, Ive bought longer screws as well as installing new threaded clips and still near impossible.
Mine is a 2017 and I have two friends with 12 and a 14 and they have the same problem.
 

tullymars

New Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
27
Location
Struggleville, Ga.
Don't recall if you can do this on the original seat but on my Sargent I took the front catch thing off and added a washer. This gives it a little more length. I think the number of washers might vary depending on whether the seat flattening mod has been done. I then turn the key whilst pushing the seat down and it goes on easily. Hope that makes sense and helps.
Thats a good idea, Ive done some grinding and filing as well as anti-seize so far, this cretainly cant hurt
 

Cycledude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2016
Messages
4,049
Location
Rib lake wi
Corbin seat I had to monkey around installing a proper sized washer between the metal bracket and the seat pan but once that was figured out the seat installs or removes pretty easily .
RDL seat I tried out a friends RDL seat before buying one, his fit kind of loose and so does my recently purchased RDL but when I start riding it this year I’m going to attempt to fix that by putting some additional pads on the bottom of the rubber bumpers. It’s not really very loose it’s just enough to bug me every time I install it.
 

Tenman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
2,112
Location
Natchez Ms USA
Corbin seat I had to monkey around installing a proper sized washer between the metal bracket and the seat pan but once that was figured out the seat installs or removes pretty easily .
RDL seat I tried out a friends RDL seat before buying one, his fit kind of loose and so does my recently purchased RDL but when I start riding it this year I’m going to attempt to fix that by putting some additional pads on the bottom of the rubber bumpers. It’s not really very loose it’s just enough to bug me every time I install it.
Try one of the long rubber bumpers in the front center of the seat
 

sky4

Active Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2020
Messages
172
Location
Northern Colorado
i drilled a hole in my left side panel that lines up with the left side tank bolt. now i can lift the tank by just taking off the easier right side panel. there's my tip of the day.
 
Top