Runs fine cold start then really rough when warm - O2 sensor bad?

[Moki]

Error code 14 points to a bad MAP sensor or that sensor is affected by foreign factors. I get this when i jumper a T fitting for a TB sync. When cold it behaves but once warmed out it starts to sputter irregularly with erratic idling.

I did notice high mileage bikes has oil residue at the TB barbs and if these residue could get to the barbs it can possibly get to the Map Sensor and contaminate it. High heat could have encourage oil mist to travel to the Map sensor during low vacuum conditions.

I can't advice if the sensor can be cleaned by IPA. If u can get a known good MAP sensor then you can do this process of elimination.

Thanks 2daMax,

It was the MAP sensors. Replacing that once I get the part in

Thanks
Karl

 

[Don in Lodi]

Thanks Don, you were spot on with the MAP sensor. It was still plugged in, but the sensor has given up the ghost. Unplugged the MAP sensor and the CEL comes on and the bike runs (OK). Plug it back in and it won't run unless cold. I've ordered a new sensor so should be back on the road soon. ::012::

Thanks again!
Karl

That's actually a down and dirty test in the automotive world.

 

[Moki]

Just some feedback that may be helpful for others...

Replaced the MAP sensor (with one from an R1 - think its the same #) and the now the bike runs smoother than I can ever recall. No idle stumble (cold or warm) and smooth power delivery throughout. Obviously a lot of factors at play for a smooth idle, but a new MAP sensor has completely cleared my issue up.. This replacement seems to have cleared up a number of 'fuelling' gremlins. See if you're MAP is acting up- check by unplugging at the sensor and running the engine and checking for lumpy running- while sensor is unplugged the check engine light will be on and the ECU will be running the default fuelling map.

I also ordered some replacement Bosch O2 Oxygen Lambda sensors to see what further difference this does...

Karl

 

[Checkswrecks]

Moki -
THANKS for the follow-up. Good info!
::008::

 

[Don in Lodi]

Just some feedback that may be helpful for others...

Replaced the MAP sensor (with one from an R1 - think its the same #) and the now the bike runs smoother than I can ever recall. No idle stumble (cold or warm) and smooth power delivery throughout. Obviously a lot of factors at play for a smooth idle, but a new MAP sensor has completely cleared my issue up.. This replacement seems to have cleared up a number of 'fuelling' gremlins. See if you're MAP is acting up by unplugging at the sensor and running the engine and checking for lumpy running- while sensor is unplugged the check engine light will be on and the ECU will be running the default fuelling map.

I also ordered some replacement Bosch O2 Oxygen Lambda sensors to see what further difference this does...

Karl

The O2 sensors could very well be fouled out after the MAP failure. ::008::

 

[Moki]

Thanks Don,

I understand the O2 sensors have a limited life anyways (~40k miles), so will be swapping those out with some replacement Bosh sensors ($50ea from Magnum Tuning) along with a new air filter to start with a clean slate. I can't imagine her running much better, but we'll soon see. ::012::

Just wish I had this sorted last week, as I had planned on riding to the South of France for the Bol D'Or. Ugh!...next year!!

Will post feedback.

 

[2daMax]

O2 sensors when it gets old, it turns 'lazy' and returns the true readings a lot slower. Most worn out sensors will cause the vehicle to run rich because in its lazy mode, the ECU thinks the bike is running lean. Higher fuel consumption is usually the result but drivability issues that resembles lean condition would not point towards a lazy sensor.

 

[Moki]

Thanks. Advice/info noted!

Karl

 

[Moki]

Sorry for the delayed feedback.

Runs great now that I replaced the MAP and 02 sensors with stock. Don't bother with aftermarket O2 sensors from Magnum tuning as they don't fit the bike (both sensors are way too long and the cases interfere and prevents the pipes from being mounted correctly). Magnum has not responded to my feedback on this...

Also, FWIW I installed a Procom PowerJet fuel controller and this has really smoothed out the throttle response all over - especially at low revs. Seems to be dialed-in perfectly now...

 

[2daMax]

Thanks Moki for providing the updates.

Could you elaborate further on the Powerjet controller? Is it plug and play (fire and forget) or requires mappings and many tunings?

 

[Moki]

Thanks Moki for providing the updates.

Could you elaborate further on the Powerjet controller? Is it plug and play (fire and forget) or requires mappings and many tunings?

It's plug and play. Settings are adjusted with a dial and can be switched off entirely without removing.

 

[2daMax]

Did it run with better fuel economy? Sorry have to ask, as running 'better' usually means using more fuel. This device sounds interesting.

 

[Moki]

Hey, I haven't really paid much attention to any change in fuel economy. I've been running on the first notch up on the dial - I'm guessing around 2% richer, which obviously means bigger smiles/less miles. I don't think there's much in it.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Also, FWIW I installed a Procom PowerJet fuel controller and this has really smoothed out the throttle response all over - especially at low revs. Seems to be dialed-in perfectly now...

The Procom Engineering website that Google found for me doesn't show one for a Tenere, do you recall the part number?

 

[Moki]

Hey Don, it is PE-PJ-008. Can get them directly from Procom via eBay UK..not sure
of the availability in the US. Any problems getting one give me a shout and id be happy to help.

 

[BenSuper10]

Hi Karl, well done on sorting your bike mate. My bike started giving me trouble yesterday evening coming home from work. I went to work yesterday morning with no problem, started fine yesterday evening as it should and 2 minutes into my journey home it started struggling like I lost a cylinder. I gave it a few high revs and it still struggled. I made my way home on the bike anyway but it would kick in good for a split second every now and then, horrible riding. At traffic lights it died, so I left it until the lights were going to turn and it started but I still had an issue, I kept the revs up so it wouldn't die. When I got about halfway home (after about 15 minutes), it came good and I had no problems all the way back. I let it cool down for about an hour at home and I started it again and it was idling all wrong and reluctant to rev. There wasn't any warning or fault lights on the clocks. I'll check the diagnostic as per previous posts on this thread this evening when I get home from work to see if anything has popped up. Hope it's an easy fix. Gutted because I just put new boots on (Conti - TKC-70's) and they're fantastic. I was hoping for a good ride-out this weekend. Also there's a Toy Run Sunday coming which is great. Hope it's sorted for it.

 

[2daMax]

How old is the bike and mileage?

Latest solved issue with this was the Intake Air Pressure sensor hose 'kinked'. This is the little hose coming off the pressure sensor on the Left side TB. Check if it is kinked or collapsed diameter.

 

[mebgardner]

Hi Karl, well done on sorting your bike mate. My bike started giving me trouble yesterday evening coming home from work. I went to work yesterday morning with no problem, started fine yesterday evening as it should and 2 minutes into my journey home it started struggling like I lost a cylinder. I gave it a few high revs and it still struggled. I made my way home on the bike anyway but it would kick in good for a split second every now and then, horrible riding. At traffic lights it died, so I left it until the lights were going to turn and it started but I still had an issue, I kept the revs up so it wouldn't die. When I got about halfway home (after about 15 minutes), it came good and I had no problems all the way back. I let it cool down for about an hour at home and I started it again and it was idling all wrong and reluctant to rev. There wasn't any warning or fault lights on the clocks. I'll check the diagnostic as per previous posts on this thread this evening when I get home from work to see if anything has popped up. Hope it's an easy fix. Gutted because I just put new boots on (Conti - TKC-70's) and they're fantastic. I was hoping for a good ride-out this weekend. Also there's a Toy Run Sunday coming which is great. Hope it's sorted for it.

Did you change anything, or work on anything recently?

 

[BenSuper10]

Did you change anything, or work on anything recently?

Hi, no, only the tyres last week. It has been running like a dream for months.

Quick Edit!! Update: I took the advice from EricV in the previous post at the start of the thread about clearing the codes.
I wrote all the dianostic codes down this evening and checked them against the manual and there were a few that were being highlighted, the rest were within spec. I started the bike and the problem was still there.
Codes that were concerning:
d:09 - 11.4 , I might give the battery a good charge to see if it helps, if not, I'll replace it. The battery is the original from new, 2011 89000 km!!
d:61 - 14, 22, 30, 60, 69, 70. These could be from alot of work I did when I got the bike and which I did an overhauling.
d:62 - 6. I reset the diagnostic code and then it read back to 0.

I turned off the ignition and started the bike, it seemed ok. I put the bike in dianostic again and re-checked the codes.
d:09 - 00. This seems fine now, battery might be ok afterall?
d:61 - 00
d:62 - 0

I turned off the igniton and started the bike again and It seems to be idling perfect and running good now. I'll take it for a spin tomorrow night when back from work to see if the problem is gone.

fingers crossed it's ok!!

Sorry for highjacking your thread Moki

 

[HeliMark]

Hi, no, only the tyres last week. It has been running like a dream for months.

Quick Edit!! Update: I took the advice from EricV in the previous post at the start of the thread about clearing the codes.
I wrote all the dianostic codes down this evening and checked them against the manual and there were a few that were being highlighted, the rest were within spec. I started the bike and the problem was still there.
Codes that were concerning:
d:09 - 11.4 , I might give the battery a good charge to see if it helps, if not, I'll replace it. The battery is the original from new, 2011 89000 km!!
d:61 - 14, 22, 30, 60, 69, 70. These could be from alot of work I did when I got the bike and which I did an overhauling.
d:62 - 6. I reset the diagnostic code and then it read back to 0.

I turned off the ignition and started the bike, it seemed ok. I put the bike in dianostic again and re-checked the codes.
d:09 - 00. This seems fine now, battery might be ok afterall?
d:61 - 00
d:62 - 0

I turned off the igniton and started the bike again and It seems to be idling perfect and running good now. I'll take it for a spin tomorrow night when back from work to see if the problem is gone.

fingers crossed it's ok!!

Sorry for highjacking your thread Moki

I would put a new battery in. This bike does wacky things when you have a weak battery in it. And having the same battery since 2011 is impressive.

Many problems have been solved with a new battery on this bike.

Mark