Rear Wheel Removal/instalation tricks

[jaeger22]

I don't know about you guys but I find the removal and installation of the rear wheel a bit of a pain. The main issue is that on my bike at least, when I get everything loose and the axle out, and then try to remove wheel, the hub wants to slide off of the rubber dampers. The dampers fall out and jam the wheel to the point that I cant get the wheel out of the swing arm. I have to slowly rotate the wheel and dig out each rubber damper and then I can get it out. This last time (4th rear tire change) I came up with trick that helped a lot so I thought I would share.
Before I removed the wheel, I tied the hub together with strong core. It is easy to do and it only took a few minutes. Like this:

This is what it looks like with the wheel out:

This little trick made it sooooo much easier to get the wheel in and out because everything stayed together.

The other trick I will pass along that I read here on the forum and now use is that when you get ready to put the wheel in, put the axle part way into the LEFT side. That will make it much easier to get the gear aligned and pushed into the final drive. Once you have the gear in you can remove the axle from the left side and install it in the right as normal.
Hope this helps;
John ::26::

 

[Karson]

Nice write up and like the tip on putting the axle in on the left side first to align things. Definitely makes stuff easier ::008::

I'm not familiar with strong core - what's this stuff?

 

[RED CAT]

Just silicone seal the rubbers in. That way they never come out unless you want them to come out.

 

[jaeger22]

OK my bad. Strong cord. i.e. string. Never said I could type. Or proof read. :-[

 

[Karson]

OK my bad. Strong cord. i.e. string. Never said I could type. Or proof read. :-[

After your valve check thread - I'll go out on a limb and say we'll give you a get out of jail free card.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Thanks for the tip(s)! Changed the tires on LowandSilent's S10 and the rear was kind of a wrestling match to get lined back up.

--G

 

[fredz43]

I have used that reverse axle trip both in removing and re installing the wheel about 4 times now. However, the last time I attempted to reinstall the wheel, I had one heck of a time lining up the gears so it would slide back in. Made me wonder why it had been so easy the previous 3 times.

 

[Philistine]

I've never had this problem, mine seems to stay in the wheel quite firmly, I just fitted a new tyre to my bike today and I had to pull the hub out before I took it to the bike shop,

 

[whisperquiet]

I have used that reverse axle trip both in removing and re installing the wheel about 4 times now. However, the last time I attempted to reinstall the wheel, I had one heck of a time lining up the gears so it would slide back in. Made me wonder why it had been so easy the previous 3 times.

Same here and it helps to leave the bike in gear so the spline doesn't turn so easily.

 

[TwoShots]

Bookmarked! Thanks, jaeger. ::008::

 

[SugarHighRider]

Clever tip, thanks for sharing!

 

[viewdvb]

I concur on the problems. My answer to the self dismantling cush drive assembly was to pry it out of the splines with two screwdrivers after the caliper plate and spacers had been removed. I have found it easier to slide the axle back in temporarily to make that easier. Once you have broken the grip of the splines, it only takes a little care for the wheel to be taken out complete. It doesn't matter if the rubbers all fall out when the wheel is free because I need to remove the cush drive plate to get the wheel set up for tyre changing and balance. On re-assembly, I don't have much problem except with locating the splines. Sure, the axle back in place helps enormously but it can still be a pain. I reckon there is too little or no lead in for the splines to re-engage. Strange because my FJR1300s and my Hondas all re-engaged easily. I'll certainly add the tie together ritual to my further rear wheel escapades as I can see it would make the job simpler still.