Rear Wheel Bearings

[RCinNC]

The right rear non drive side bearing is the one that went on my bike, just like Tabasco said. Mine lasted until 61,000 miles. I discovered it while changing tires; I always turn the bearings with my fingers during a tire change. There's s definite notchy feeling when they start going bad that you can feel with your fingers. I wonder what makes that particular bearing susceptible to early failure?

I don't see any need to source non OEM bearings if you're looking for quality ones. The ones in the S10 are made by KBC, Koyo and NTN (in the case of the lower steering head bearing), all of which are recognized as quality bearings. I went down the rabbit hole once looking for an alternate source for bearings besides OEM, and it ended up being a frustrating process, and a more expensive one too. But, if you ever do decide to search for something besides OEM, I still have this chart I made up that shows the actual OEM bearing sizes, manufacturers' codes, and possible alternate bearings from other manufacturers. I can't vouch for the accuracy of the other manufacturers; I didn't measure their bearings personally, it's just info I gleaned from on line. I did measure the OEM bearing sizes with a caliper though.

 

[holligl]

Wheels turn 200 rpm, not 2000.

My calcs get about 1,121 RPM at 80 mph...

80 mph = 7,040 ft/min
------------------------------------------
2ft dia tire = 6.28 ft/rotation

Garry, did your puller have the little catch lip, or were they friction pull only?

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[scott123007]

[/Q

Wheels turn 200 rpm, not 2000.

You sure about that? @120 mph =10560 fpm divided by approx 6 ft (circumference of tire)=1760 rpm.

 

[scott123007]

Seat new bearings dry, or does a little grease help? Per the manual, I do need to check my sockets and washers for appropriate driver sizes.

The best way is to put the bearings in your freezer for a few minutes first.

 

[holligl]

The right rear non drive side bearing is the one that went on my bike, just like Tabasco said. Mine lasted until 61,000 miles... I wonder what makes that particular bearing susceptible to early failure?

Probably because they went with the same as the fronts, rather than something beefier. Saving a manufacturing $.

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[holligl]

1) Remove one of the seals on the bearing itself (either a good existing one, or your new replacement one) and pack it with more grease.

So I gave it a quick try, but did not want to damage the seal, so I didn't press it too hard. My main problem is I sent my glasses in for new lenses, and can't see well enough for close work.

Does it work best to remove from the outside (bearing) or inside (race)? What pry tool do you use?

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[gv550]

My puller has a lip, but too blunt to catch the narrow groove between the bearing and spacer. I could have filed an edge to get it to grab better but long punch and hammer had the job done quickly.

 

[scott123007]

So I gave it a quick try, but did not want to damage the seal, so I didn't press it too hard. My main problem is I sent my glasses in for new lenses, and can't see well enough for close work.

Does it work best to remove from the outside (bearing) or inside (race)? What pry tool do you use?

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I use a tiny flat screw driver. Stick it in carefully where it touches against the inner race and then just pry up, using the race as a pivot. It will pop out with very little effort.

 

[Tenman]

After reading Tabasco’s horror story. I’m putting in the bearings I’ve had on the shelf for a year @71k miles. When I pull the wheels. If the old ones still feel good. It gonna be painful to shank em. Tabasco could be a paid spokesman for a bearing co.

 

[holligl]

I use a tiny flat screw driver. Stick it in carefully where it touches against the inner race and then just pry up, using the race as a pivot. It will pop out with very little effort.

Thanks! Easy with a little knowledge and I didn't even need my glasses. The seals are a little more substantial than I expected. Replacements lubed and waiting for the puller.

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[holligl]

The puller was delivered today so I proceeded to swap the bearings. The kit was missing two of the pullers, but had the one I needed. Sent the EBay seller a message about the missing parts.

Worked best to pull the drive side first. First try bent some softer steel base, so I used two pry bars as a base for the puller. It grabbed the race solidly and pulled easily after the initial tougher release.

The sensor side didn't have much of a flat surface unless I sent time fabbing some spacers. So I simply used the axle to drive it out from the other side with a large wood dowel.

Ready for new bearings.

Fully set the right side first, using a socket on the outer bearing. I did use the freezer to shrink it a bit.
Install the spacer, then the large bearing. I drove this one with a reversed socket to drive the full bearing, until fully seated against the spacer. The nominal depth is 5.9mm. Checked with a tire tread gauge.

While the new bearings feel smoother, they do feel stiffer too. Spinning on the axle is smoother, and the wheel actually spins about 50% longer (prior to seal installation).

Good to go, Ready to ride. Going to wait a bit longer for the front.

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[MattR]

Ive been with two people on the afternoon the wheel bearing blew up.... No warning at all.... going along and then, grinddddddddddd,,,, more grinding........ more grinding........ I suggest you STOP instantly. I was with a buddy that we happened to be about 5-8 miles down a gravel road before we hit any black top. Once we got to black top it tore up all the components on the right hand non drive side. Ripped off the ABS, tore up the mount, hub, brakes, ABS plate, brake pad, disc vent plate, ABS ring, Etc. It really does a job on all those parts... It actually starts to machine itself into the rear hub when that bearing fails.

Pulling the bearings: When changing out the bearings I just tap them out with a big punch and then set them aside not to be used again. Then I have a bearing press to re install new bearings. I dont really care what damage I create on the old bearings because they are about to go to the recycle bin.

Im my Tenere experience. If you KNOW that you have a notchy / crunchy rear wheel bearing on a Tenere (and you have pulled it apart and then reinstalled the bearing) I would suggest you NOT ride it until they are replaced. Ive replaced many sets of wheel bearings and they can go at anytime, with no warning. If you decide to ride you might get 5 miles or 5000K miles before it blows up and fails. And depending on when you notice it you will have tons of damage and expense. If your tip-toeing town a gravel road when it goes you will hear it grinding. Hopefully you have a good AAA 'pick you up service'. If your cooking down the high-way and maybe listing to music when it goes, (rear) you will probably see the ABS light pop up first on the dash, then the engine light, and then all the lights on your dash will turn on and your speedo will go NUTS or just drop off to zero when your going 75...... ask me how I know this? By this time, once you pull over you will need a TON of new parts other than the $20 bearing.

The biggest issue is the little bearing on the right rear (non-drive). This is always the biggest culprit. The fronts use the same bearings and they tend to go south swell. With all the bearings Ive changed out before the "average" miles on these bikes (blown bearings) tends to be about 40K miles on that rear non drive. I have a friend with a high milage Tenere, the one mentioned above. We have changed out his rear right (3-4) times I believe. Two times it actually blew up and grenaded, one other time it was just preventative because it was a little notchy.

If anyone ever THINKS they have a notch, or drag, or "crunchy" bearing on a Tenere, please just change it out with a new one before you go ride more... Financially and safety, not worth it.



(soap box) don't power wash your bike, ever..... so many parts are ruined because of the high pressure water getting into stuff. It always cracks me up when people then reply, I stay far back so I dont mess up anything.................. LOL. What part of "ever" did you not understand... LOL

I’ve always jet washed my bikes. I just don’t direct it in sensitive places. Also, when I changed bearings I upgraded to sealed units


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[MattR]

67kmi on original bearings, so I am due, but I'm sticking with OEMs. I have a complete set, F&R, along with new seals.

Once I get the puller I ordered I will do all of them except the hub clutch. The front doesn't feel as rough, but doesn't spin as long as the rear on the stand (maybe the rear just has more mass).

Curious, how hard do these bearings come out, and press in? If you can work them out with a punch from the opposite side, they must not be too tough.

I won't ride any distance, maybe just around the block to check the new tire installation.

The brass weights are reusable, fit on front spokes, and I have ground them to fit on the rear center ridge. Got tired of those stick on steel square weights and the residue they leave.

The white on the rim is probably residual mounting lube. No corrosion, but I do have a lot of rock chips on the rims.

On the rare occasion I wash it, it's with nothing more than a garden hose. In my book, dirty bikes have more character. I also use plenty of grease during reassembly.

Thanks for all the suggestions and input!

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I put the new bearings in the freezer over night before I install them. Makes it much easier and I can then gently tap them in using a socket on the outer race


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[DamonS]

I’ve always jet washed my bikes. I just don’t direct it in sensitive places. Also, when I changed bearings I upgraded to sealed units


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I disagree with the powerwash comment as well. having pressure washed mine and other race machines over the years, and ultimately doing full and complete disassemblies at year end to prepare for the next season of racing, i've never seen a component that suffered damage to a reasonable pressure washing (now if you take the direct jet to something, sure, but if you are using the wide wand, which most people do, then you have to try pretty hard)

you'll always get the one that says it happened to them, and sure statistically it'll happen to us all, but in my shop I see thousands of maintenance related failures and can't even think of a time when i've had a machine come in with a pressure washer water ingress failure YMMV

 

[holligl]

The puller was delivered today so I proceeded to swap the bearings. The kit was missing two of the pullers, but had the one I needed. Sent the EBay seller a message about the missing parts.

So the $24 set will be reduced to $14. Works for me as I'm not likely to use anything but the biggest one on axle bearings.

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