Rear Torque Rod Fastener Stripped

[J.A.P]

I somehow rounded the hex on one of my rear torque rod fasteners. I don't have time to wait for a replacement. I found a similar fastener at Lowes. It's a Hex Head Cap Screw M8-1.25x30, grade 12.9 not sure of the finish/material (it's not stainless). The OEM is not fully threaded this one is. I will be using the OEM nut. Do you guy's think this is an exceptable replacement? I can't think of why it wouldn't be. I get paranoid when it comes to things that hold important parts like brakes in place.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Dogdaze]

It will be perfectly fine, if the aesthetics worry you just order the OEM in the mean time and replace it when it lands...................

 

[jmcgilroy]

You mentioned that the OEM had a shoulder area. Am I correct that there is a small amount of "pivot" in the torque arm that rides on the shoulder? I, too would use the one you bought but I'd change it out when convenient.

 

[EricV]

The torque arm for the rear brake caliper does not move when the axle and brake caliper, (and torque arm), bolts are all tight. I have replaced that part with alternate parts and threaded bolts and run it that way for well over 100k miles in the past, so don't stress about it.

Spray some paint on the bolt if you don't want it to rust, or use a galvanized bolt. The oem isn't stainless either. Stainless tends to gall at the threads over time with dirt and running the nut back and forth during tire changes. Your wife or GF's nail polish in clear is an acceptable alternative too.

It's not a critical part. It's just in tension to prevent the caliper from rotating, which still has the torqued axle nut to overcome before it would rotate.