Rear spring swap

[528Hz]

Hey you all beautiful beings ::003::
I am looking to swap out the rear spring. The shock itself functions very well, but the spring is a bit on a saggy side for my 250 pound lovely being. Racetech 1100? Others? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. ::013::

 

[digitalmoto]

I bought the Penske shock during the group buy from Nick @ Stoltecmoto.com. I'd give him a call and see what he can do. He seems to really know his stuff and should be able to get you setup or at least pointed in the right direction.
Stoltec Moto
580 Bangor Junction Road
Bangor, PA 18013

Phone: (610) 888-1280

Product Support: support@stoltecmoto.com
Sales Support: sales@stoltecmoto.com

 

[Rasher]

I fitted a Wilburs to mine, the OE unit is not great (Like all OE units very much built to a price) and I personally would put the money for a spring towards a higher quality unit, I don't know the Penske range as in the UK it is either Ohlins (How Much ???) or Wilburs.

WIlburs are modular so you can pick and choose ride height adjusters, remote pre-load and an option of a basic shock body (1 way damping) or a more exotic 3-way unit, I chose the latter, but the basic Wilburs unit would still be of much higher quaility than the Yamaha one, with better damping and a wider range of adjustment - and for a few hundred quid it does not seem worth messing with the OE unit to me - also aftermarket shocks hold a good resale value so if you ever sell the bike you would easily get 60% - 70% of the cost back.

 

[Maxified]

IMHO, getting a full shock/spring setup is the best way to go. Can't say from my experience who has the best stuff right now.

If you are just looking for just a rear spring swap, I have used:

http://www.hyperpro.com/hyperpro/en/node/21

My being is more lovey than yours and it is a nice improvement over OEM. The spring at about $99 might be a good option if you are not going with a full setup on the back. The only negative comment about it that I have is that the company color is a kind of light purple but some might like that ::013::

 

[viewdvb]

Caution with the Hyperpro spring - it may not be any higher poundage and it is difficult to extract poundage info from them. The best I got is that it would be "better" whatever that means. The 850lb spring from Eibach, part number 0800 225 0850 (Google will find a supplier or the Eibach website will list them) is definitely heavier and there is a 900lb version if you're desperate. Downside is that it needs a 10mm spacer which is a bit pricey at $65 + shipping from rideonadv.com. I made my own from an offcut of 10mm alloy using a jigsaw and a hole cutter. Bit of a time waster but better than the ADV price, especially shipped to the UK + duty and sales tax. I fitted the spacer to the OEM spring to start with, which gave me another 10mm of preload adjustability and that worked so well that I haven't fitted a heavier spring yet.

 

[Maxified]

Caution with the Hyperpro spring - it may not be any higher poundage and it is difficult to extract poundage info from them. The best I got is that it would be "better" whatever that means. The 850lb spring from Eibach, part number 0800 225 0850 (Google will find a supplier or the Eibach website will list them) is definitely heavier and there is a 900lb version if you're desperate. Downside is that it needs a 10mm spacer which is a bit pricey at $65 + shipping from rideonadv.com. I made my own from an offcut of 10mm alloy using a jigsaw and a hole cutter. Bit of a time waster but better than the ADV price, especially shipped to the UK + duty and sales tax. I fitted the spacer to the OEM spring to start with, which gave me another 10mm of preload adjustability and that worked so well that I haven't fitted a heavier spring yet.

Sorry, I don't have the spring rate numbers on the HyperPro rear spring either. I can say that I was maxed out on the adjustment with the OEM spring and after the HyperPro was installed I was able to set it below the half way mark. The ride was improved (better response, no wallow) and the tail was a bit taller. Didn't have to fabricate or buy a spacer that cost almost as much as the spring ::008:: Still, just adding a spacer to the OEM setup is the most cost effective to get a bit more pre-load.

 

[Old Git Ray]

Caution with the Hyperpro spring - it may not be any higher poundage and it is difficult to extract poundage info from them. The best I got is that it would be "better" whatever that means. The 850lb spring from Eibach, part number 0800 225 0850 (Google will find a supplier or the Eibach website will list them) is definitely heavier and there is a 900lb version if you're desperate. Downside is that it needs a 10mm spacer which is a bit pricey at $65 + shipping from rideonadv.com. I made my own from an offcut of 10mm alloy using a jigsaw and a hole cutter. Bit of a time waster but better than the ADV price, especially shipped to the UK + duty and sales tax. I fitted the spacer to the OEM spring to start with, which gave me another 10mm of preload adjustability and that worked so well that I haven't fitted a heavier spring yet.

Hi, We ride almost all the time 2 up and we are neither young or light. Tell me, why did you want/need a heavier spring (or a spacer as is the present case).

Was it easy to fit the spacer and/or spring and do you have any piccys.

Oh and a word of caution. If the hex screw on the top of the preload adjuster becomes loose, the knob will strip its key and not turn the internal adjuster. Doh !

 

[viewdvb]

Old Git Ray - from another old git. We ride 95% of the time two up with luggage and, while my darling wife is a trim 120lb, I aint! We find that the standard suspension setup on max pre-load works pretty well (almost never bottoms), but there is no adjustment left and it would be nice to have a little more ride height/clearance on the rear. On the other hand, we both like the ride quality of the stock shock so I'm not keen on a complete, expensive shock replacement. Besides, I have experience of Ohlins and WP supplying their "specially set up" shocks for an FJR, both of which had spring weights lighter and consequently worse than the original. I don't believe they ever road tested them! Hence the spacer and the tentative plans for just a heavier spring now shelved for the moment.
Fitting comes in two parts - sorry, I didn't take photos at the time.
Removing the shock is easier than most. First, put a chock or other support under the rear wheel or you'll have trouble getting the bolts back in. Unbolt the top and bottom shock bolts. I also unbolted the bottom linkeage bolts to regrease the linkage while I was grovelling underneath which probably gave me a bit more wriggle room at the bottom of the shock. You need to remove the little screw that secures the wire guide for the rear brake lines opposite the adjuster and pull them aside or the shock will catch on the way out. The shock can be removed upwards out of the right side with a bit of a turn to clear the adjuster.
Removing/replacing the spring. I used a car spring compressor that I had in the toolbox - two sets of curved bars that locate into the spring on screw threads to allow the spring to be compressed sufficiently to get the collar out of the bottom end. There are a variety of tools available in the average auto store that can be used or adapted. Fit the spacer at the top end under the adjuster and re-assemble in reverse. Note that the top bolt head fits into little lugs on the frame so you don't need to hold it with a spanner but make sure you locate it properly and don't crush the lugs. Torque settings are: Top bolt 29 ft lb, bottom bolt 35 ft lb, linkeage bolts 43 ft lb or 'kin tight as you don't want them coming loose though they do have friction locking nuts.

 

[Rasher]

I went with Wilburs, gave my 80kg and mrs 65kg and they used a 150 spring, a shade stiffer than the OE 137 and it seems to work a treat, even with no pre-load dialled in (about 32mm sag) it has at least as much clearance two-up as it did before with the pre-load on max, and I only need to wind on about half the available pre-load to give a good feeling two-up (the bike still "felt" low at the back with max pre-load on OEM unit)

It also rides bumps better and feels more supple even when one-up, overall a much nicer ride quality.

Well worth the money if you do a lot of two-up ::008::

Re-Working the forks also gave a much better ride at the other end, the OE setup felt very harsh, especially braking over bumps, it floats along now.

 

[JaimeV]

I've got this one and I'm very pleased: BM distributed by Mambatec.
They are custom made

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=6045.msg105007#msg105007

 

[tomatocity]

I replaced the stock 750 lbs spring with an Eibach 0800.225.0850 (850 lbs) and a spacer from RideOnAdv. I went from full preload to 6+ clicks (from 0 preload). Now I can add more load than needed.

 

[avc8130]

I bought the Penske shock during the group buy from Nick @ Stoltecmoto.com. I'd give him a call and see what he can do. He seems to really know his stuff and should be able to get you setup or at least pointed in the right direction.
Stoltec Moto
580 Bangor Junction Road
Bangor, PA 18013

Phone: (610) 888-1280

Product Support: support@stoltecmoto.com
Sales Support: sales@stoltecmoto.com

THIS!!!

Simply swapping the spring on the stock shock will be "better", but the valving will still be wrong. In fact, it will be more wrong .

Give Nick a ring. Tell him AC sent you from the Tenere forum. He will hook you up.

ac

 

[3putt]

I would think an 800lb spring would do it, but some aftermarkets are not the correct length so you may need a spacer. When you get tired of the OEM, talk to Stoltec!

 

[la-motor]

Don't know if anyone on the board has ever used Suspensions by Sasquatch...but I know from past experience that he does top quality work at a very reasonable price...

http://www.sasquatchrider.com/index.html

 

[viewdvb]

THIS!!!

Simply swapping the spring on the stock shock will be "better", but the valving will still be wrong. In fact, it will be more wrong .

Give Nick a ring. Tell him AC sent you from the Tenere forum. He will hook you up.

ac

I appreciate the logic of aftermarket shocks being better built or more sophisticated (that's what you pay for) and I have fitted them to several previous bikes. The results were good. I can understand why I might need to change the spring because Yamaha chooses a spring that works for a perceived average load and that may not be me. What I don't understand is the claim that a manufacturer with the resources of Yamaha would fit a shock with "wrong" valving. Why would they do that? They chose to set the suspension up the way they thought would best suit the majority of buyers. If you like something different, that doesn't necessarily make theirs "wrong" And the aftermarket makers aren't infallible. They get it "wrong" too in my experience. I get tired of hearing "Just leave it to us, we will supply a shock correct for you. We're the experts. You don't need to know the details" I have never yet found a shock supplied under that understanding that precisely fitted my requirements. I was even quoted a substantial price recently to "set-up my front forks and rear shock. The suspension specialists in question were very reluctant to say exactly what they would do but , when pressed, said they would change the front oil to something they wouldn't specify, fit springs that they wouldn't specify and "balance the rear shock to the front. When I pointed out that the rear shock only had a single rebound adjustemnt and an easy preload adjuster so there wasn't much they could do that I couldn't, they got haughty about it and I left. At the typical prices charged, I do need to know and discuss the details.

 

[nwryder12]

Don't know if anyone on the board has ever used Suspensions by Sasquatch...but I know from past experience that he does top quality work at a very reasonable price...

http://www.sasquatchrider.com/index.html

I've had good experience with Sasquatch on one of my previous bikes as well. Reasonable on price as well. FWIW

 

[Tremor38]

I appreciate the logic of aftermarket shocks being better built or more sophisticated (that's what you pay for) and I have fitted them to several previous bikes. The results were good. I can understand why I might need to change the spring because Yamaha chooses a spring that works for a perceived average load and that may not be me. What I don't understand is the claim that a manufacturer with the resources of Yamaha would fit a shock with "wrong" valving. Why would they do that? They chose to set the suspension up the way they thought would best suit the majority of buyers. If you like something different, that doesn't necessarily make theirs "wrong" And the aftermarket makers aren't infallible. They get it "wrong" too in my experience. I get tired of hearing "Just leave it to us, we will supply a shock correct for you. We're the experts. You don't need to know the details" I have never yet found a shock supplied under that understanding that precisely fitted my requirements. I was even quoted a substantial price recently to "set-up my front forks and rear shock. The suspension specialists in question were very reluctant to say exactly what they would do but , when pressed, said they would change the front oil to something they wouldn't specify, fit springs that they wouldn't specify and "balance the rear shock to the front. When I pointed out that the rear shock only had a single rebound adjustemnt and an easy preload adjuster so there wasn't much they could do that I couldn't, they got haughty about it and I left. At the typical prices charged, I do need to know and discuss the details.

Lol! Yes, if they're not willing to be honest with you I'd go elsewhere. The fellow at Stoltec sounds like a stand-up guy who is honest.

I had a really good experience working with a guy named John at Moto-pro suspension while reworking one of my motards. He wouldn't sell any parts to me unless I called and we talked thoroughly about what I wanted. I was overseas, so he sent me all of the shims, valves and instructions. He answered ALL of my questions to my satisfaction and I had quite the list. I'd go back to someone like that in a heart beat. The guy at Stoltec sounds the same way.

Not all of them are shysters 8)

 

[Rasher]

Lol! Yes, if they're not willing to be honest with you I'd go elsewhere......

Not all of them are shysters 8)

Indeed, I have used MCT in the UK a bunch of times, you get a setup sheet where it tells you the spring weight, air gap, spacer fitted and oil type.

Without at least the air gap and oil weight how on earth are you supposed to do basic maintennace such as future oil changes :question:

I can see some are cagey as they don't want you calling them up just to get detailed instructions on what you need to do to sort it yourself, but at the end of the day I think the honest folk get a lot more business (and recomendations) from this Honesty.

I know many suspension places will also bang on about re-valving and all sorts when all they are most likely doing is altering spring / oil / air gap. On the Tenere and my last bike (ZZR1400) MCT told me straight the forks did not really need a revalve, just a different spring and oil spec (and both were massively improved)

For the shock I went with Wilburs recomendations, I was asked for weight of me and pillion and they recommended the spring and set the damping to match this spring, but again the shock came with a spec sheet giving the spring weight, shock length and gas pressure - no mystery or secrecy involved.


I personally do not really buy into "setups" much, especially with a basic shock like that on the Tenere, I can move the adjusters myself, take some notes and will soon find out how I personally prefer the bike setup - for free :exclaim: I think you also learn a bit doing it this way and will be far more comfortable adjusting the bike for different conditions yourself as opposed to leaving it as "the expert" set it up for every type of road and load.

 

[viewdvb]

Here's a question that none of them have answered to my satisfaction. What is the purpose of changing the oil weight in a set of forks that have fully adjustable damping. Surely all that does is change the amount of damping for any given screw setting which is why they gave you the adjusters in the first place. Changing the air gap - that really does have an effect. Obviously, the air in the forks is a major component in the springing. As the forks compress, the oil level rises and compresses the air. Halving the volume of the air inside will double the springing effect of that air and halving it again - double again. You can see that the spring effect of the compressing air is exponential and effectively gives a rising rate effect to even single rate springs. It can be adjusted to make bottoming impossible even on soft springs. I have experimentally run forks on no springs at all, just adjustable pressurised air and the results were quite encouraging. There are manufacturers of rear shocks who do the same thing. It entirely depends on the volume of air in the forks. If there is a large volume (lower oil level), the compression of the air will be slower and the rising rate effect will be less. Too little air and the rate will rise so quickly that the air pressure will increase to lock up levels before the forks compress fully. In between there is lots of adjustabilty and the good thing is it is easy and free. By far the most effective way to experiment with fork springing at no cost whatever is with the air gap. Give it a try, always assuming you aren't happy with the stock setup. All it takes is a graduated dipstick and a piece of tubing to suck out a little oil if necessary.

 

[scott123007]

Here's a question that none of them have answered to my satisfaction. What is the purpose of changing the oil weight in a set of forks that have fully adjustable damping. Surely all that does is change the amount of damping for any given screw setting which is why they gave you the adjusters in the first place. Changing the air gap - that really does have an effect. Obviously, the air in the forks is a major component in the springing. As the forks compress, the oil level rises and compresses the air. Halving the volume of the air inside will double the springing effect of that air and halving it again - double again. You can see that the spring effect of the compressing air is exponential and effectively gives a rising rate effect to even single rate springs. It can be adjusted to make bottoming impossible even on soft springs. I have experimentally run forks on no springs at all, just adjustable pressurised air and the results were quite encouraging. There are manufacturers of rear shocks who do the same thing. It entirely depends on the volume of air in the forks. If there is a large volume (lower oil level), the compression of the air will be slower and the rising rate effect will be less. Too little air and the rate will rise so quickly that the air pressure will increase to lock up levels before the forks compress fully. In between there is lots of adjustabilty and the good thing is it is easy and free. By far the most effective way to experiment with fork springing at no cost whatever is with the air gap. Give it a try, always assuming you aren't happy with the stock setup. All it takes is a graduated dipstick and a piece of tubing to suck out a little oil if necessary.

Assuming your lightest compression or rebound damping adjustment was un detectable and your heaviest would keep your forks from either compressing or rebounding at all, you would not need to change the oil viscosity, but that is not the case. A different (in most cases higher) viscosity oil will pronounce those adjustments, or in the case of changing springs, maintain what you have, unless of course you alter the shim stack instead.