Rear shock damage on S10

thfraser

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My adjuster just spins too. It doesn't allow any adjustment on the pre-load. I might consider a new replacment under warranttee or go the route as recommended by Dallara and others.
 

bloodline

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Mine is being replaced under warranty. The whole shock.

Yamaha has asked for the old stuff back. They claim to be working on it.
 

TreeMuncher

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Add mine to the list of defective shock knobs. I don't think that it's worked since the summer on my trip out west. I'm guessing that was around the 7,500-10,000 mile mark.

I fiddled with it today and determined that the inside of the knob had stripped out. Yamaha has really made a poor choice in this item. All these replacements are going to cost them a fortune if all they do is replace the entire rear shock unit for a broken piece of plastic with the exact same parts.
 

Rasher

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TreeMuncher said:
All these replacements are going to cost them a fortune if all they do is replace the entire rear shock unit for a broken piece of plastic with the exact same parts.
I suspect they only pay £50 for the entire shock in bulk, although it still seems an expensive way of doing things, but on the bright side (for Yamaha) far more are gonna fail out of warranty and then they can flog a £700 shock due to a £1 knob failing, if they just replaced the knob under warranty they would have to sell it as a spare part and miss out on all that extra profit....

About 10 years ago (maybe more) MCN in the UK did a piece on parts fitted to Triumphs, I remember a set of Carbs that would cost about £700 to a punter cost them about £50 from Mikuni - really shocking figures on many parts with 1000% + markups on lots of bits.

I think that is why some aftermarket stuff is so much better, you often think of the £700 Yamaha shock Vs the £1,000 Ohlins, but in reality the OEM stuff is often absolute rubbish bought from whoever can supply the item cheapest, and explains why a budget £200 aftermarket shock is often better than the much more expensive OEM item.
 

firedad415

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Finally got around to getting the bike back from the dealership. Dropped it off last week and it was done the next morning! (Cycle World, VA Beach) They showed me in the "dealer only" shop manual trouble shooting guide...basically, any defect, leaking seal, stripped knob, etc--- replace whole shock unit ---was the "fix". Kinda sucks! But, I have my second shock on. The service guy there said that the shock was $500 "dealer cost" if it was to not be covered. WOW, that is one expensive knob job. ???
 

tomatocity

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I missed this thread though have had concerns. Found it difficult to increase the preload without being on the centerstand.

Looks like there is a cure for this problem at EagleMike.com and not a bad price.
 

bloodline

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Preload should never be adjusted unless on the center stand.

I did it and tore up my adjuster knob. Yamaha replaced the shock.

I'll probably buy an eaglemike knob but I'm seriously considering a whole new shock since I need a heavier spring anyway.
 

Rasher

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bloodline said:
Preload should never be adjusted unless on the center stand........
With the Yamaha adjuster, the OE GS one worked OK, as does my mates Explorer one (bike does not even have a centre stand) and all of the Wilburs and Ohlins units I have had in the past worked fine (again some on bikes without centre stands)

Some were much easier on the centre stand, where others seemed almost as easy on the sidestand - I think this is down to the mechanism design and gearing of the adjuster.

I think Yamaha, or the shock supplier who won the "how cheap can you make a shock" competition made it just a few pence too cheaply. If I still had my Yamaha one on the bike I would just buy the new improved knob and fit it right away, before the problem occurs miles from home when I want to adjust the shock.

With my luck that would be 1500 miles from home when the Mrs decides to lay by a pool and let me ride the Grossglochner and the bike is set fully hard for two of us plus luggage, or on return when I need to jack it back up and I end up riding the 1,000 miles home with it bottoming out everywhere.

Prevention is better than cure IMO
 

Tremor38

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nykung said:
I couldn't agree more. Yesterday i tried my friends brand new Honda crosstourer, and the feeling when i tried to adjust the rear damper was something compleaty else. So smooth and easy to turn both ways compared to my S10.
The Honda's preload adjustment is probably hydraulic. Our is mechanical, no doubt about it. Most llkely a worm gear.
 
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