I understand the indicator on my 2015 goes to lines with the clutch pulled in but I've noticed a different issue when riding today. Under hard acceleration the indicator changes gear reading. In all gears 2nd - 6th when roll on the throttle hard the indicator will change to the next lowest gear. When I roll off it goes back to the correct gear reading. Any one else ever see this?
Quastion on gear indicator
- Thread starter PaRay
- Start date
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Sounds like your clutch is slipping.
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WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
I've seen mine indicate a gear higher momentarily when deliberately slipping the clutch.PaRay said:
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I apprecieate the feedback. I do believe you guys are correct that the clutch is slipping. What I don't understand is why it shows no sign of slipping until higher RPM. I can accelerate hard from a stop and it doesn't do this until about 7K RPM. If I'm crusing in higher gear and roll hard on the throttle it pulls fine until about 7K. Well thanks for the input. It is still under warranty(bought as left over). I'll see what the dealer says.
Fpalbrecht
Active Member
That's about where the engine is producing its max HP so if it's going to slip that would be a good place to start.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Have you used only motorcycle specific oil in it? Many, if not most, car oils have friction modifiers that could cause this. Changing back to MC oil might fix it in such a case.
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If you're relying on the gear indicator to tell you when it's slipping, it may be slipping all the time and you're just noting when the software decides that the RPM and road speed are enough of a mis-match to change the indicator.PaRay said:
If its under warranty, I'd just let the dealer sort it. In fact, if is faults consistently and reproducibly that's a big plus; don't do anything as you may just make it harder to diagnose and convince the dealer there is a problem. Given that the bike is NOS, my guess is that the bike was probably sitting for a long time with fluids and you've got some issue with glazed clutch plates from the sitting. Or the bike had a few enthusiastic+ test rides. In any event, new clutch plates should sort it and this is a relatively easy fix.
If it wasn't under warranty, I'd certainly take a shot at a fix with a different oil brand.
- Mark
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
As others have mentioned, an oil change may be they answer. I would go back to semi-synthetic, it has more of a coupling effect and whilst full synthetic has been used successfully in many owners machines, perhaps in your case it is just not working optimally??
And as previous post, changing clutch plates is about 30 mins, on side stand and no oil loss.
And as previous post, changing clutch plates is about 30 mins, on side stand and no oil loss.
Davesax36
Active Member
How long since you did the clutch fluid?
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Another thought occurred to me. Make sure to inspect the clutch lever pivot. Disassemble and lubricate if necessary. I found mine was dry of lubricant and binding quite a bit. It initially presented by making smooth clutch engagement very difficult as the lever would kind of hang up and then release in steps. If your's binding it might be preventing full engagement of the clutch?
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Do you see the tach RPMs increasing at the same time?
markbxr400
New Member
If I could ask a related question, I have a 2013 that I purchased new in October. It has 7,000 miles on it now. In any case, since the day I purchased it I notice that my clutch will start to disengage with the slightest pull on the lever, say 1/4 to 1/2 inch. It seems to be fully engaged when the lever is all the way out, but compared to every other bike I've owned, this one seems to have the shortest pull before disengaging. Is this normal? If not, can it be adjusted?
Many thanks. Mark
Many thanks. Mark
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Might not take much slippage to fool the gear position algorythm, couple hundred RPM??PaRay said:
Probably normal, although if it seems dramatically different from other bikes you've owned, then this is odd as it appears more/less the same to me. If the other bikes you've owned have had cable clutches rather than hydraulic, that's probably the reason as a hydraulic clutch lever tends not to have much (if any) "free play" like a cable clutch lever.markbxr400 said:
The actual displacement distance of the lever to the point the clutch disengages is not the key thing - it's whether it starts disengaging as you start to apply lever pressure. It's normal for a clutch to start slipping right at the point where you're starting to notice that you're putting non-trivial pressure on the lever - they're calibrated this way to have the lightest clutch pull that still has enough spring pressure for full engagement with no pressure on the lever.
- Mark
Dealer not interested in even discussing warranty. No suprise. I decided to try oil change. I will admit I wasn't optimistic but it appears to have fix the clutch slipping problem. I put in semi synthetic . Rode easy for about 75 miles and then hammered it. tried to to make it slip and no problem.
No more gear indicator changing on hard acceleration. Still surprised that Mobile 1 was the problem but I'll see if problem returns.
Thanks again everyone for the input.
No more gear indicator changing on hard acceleration. Still surprised that Mobile 1 was the problem but I'll see if problem returns.
Thanks again everyone for the input.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Were you using motorcycle specific Mobil 1 or regular car Mobil 1. Though the viscosities from 10W-40 and higher aren't supposed to contain the troublesome friction modifiers, I still don't trust car oil.PaRay said: