If you do a lot of sustained 75+ mph riding, the Tenere can "lose" some oil. The rings and valves will be fine, as you'll always find some of it filling the little drain tube at the left rear of the airbox.
Prospective New ST Owner....what are your biggest beefs about your 2014+ ST?
- Thread starter cavenger
- Start date
mebgardner
Active Member
I know this is a bit of a thread hijack, but thread site please? (So I may read it and have a precise method made known).
Thanks.
mebgardner
Active Member
I am satisfied with the performance of the stock OEM propulsion system. (Stated that way so to include the EFI, motor mechanicals, and exhaust).
However, I also find the fuelling just a little, ummm, abrupt. I intend to retain the stock system as much as possible, I'm not "into" changing hi-dollar items for sound improvements, or slight HP gains.
So, that being said (that I'll likely keep the OEM muffler, and pipes, etc), Is there one, or more than one recommended re-flash vendor?
Who are they?, ... or point me at those threads.
Thank You!
Checkswrecks said:
I haven't seen that on the Tenere, yet, but that describes the KLR. And maybe that applies to some of my past bikes. But for many years 75mph was taboo, and I found plenty of other ways to get tickets, so I didn't do much sustained high speed riding.
Defekticon
Active Member
If you're just going to leave the bike stock otherwise, I highly recommend Anthony who is a member of this forum. avc8130. I've had it and it's great, it really smooths out the abrupt throttle changes.mebgardner said:
If you're going to modify the bike I suggest ECU Unleashed. I now have their tune as they eliminate the closed loop area of the factory table which eliminates throttle surging at light throttle with an Arrow header, PCV + Autotune setup.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
I had read about that before taking my Tenere on a long-distance tour in 2015 from Ventura, CA to Spokane, WA. This was only a couple of months after purchasing it new. I packed a quart of oil and kept an eye on the level and never saw any usage. This included prolonged runs at 80 MPH + through Utah at 95-105oF temperatures. Did a similar tour last year to Grand Junction, CO under high speed, high ambient temperature conditions and again saw no oil usage at all. I didn't bother packing the extra oil on that second trip. In addition, my daily commute of 46 miles each way is at 75 MPH + about half the distance, at much cooler temperatures. So far I've seen no loss of oil at all, even now at 30K miles under her belt.Checkswrecks said:
I know they made some piston and ring changes for the Gen 2 models, so maybe the oil use thing is only a Gen 1 concern?
UpToNoGood
Member
My issue is with the factory heated grips. They have 3 settings for you to pick from while riding which are Low/Med/High. When not riding you can pre-set the Low/Med/High from a range of 1-10 and most people will choose 1 for Low 5 for Med and 10 for High. Why couldn't Yamaha just let you roll from 1-10 on the fly and pick what works for the temp and speed. Sometimes 1 isn't enough and 5 is too much. I'm pretty sure it is just a software change.
R
RonH
Guest
Using oil is not normally an issue, but growing up on 70s models, burning some oil is not a huge deal. Of course no one wants to add oil, but talking 1000 miles a quart in oil consumption is not out of the range considered normal. Buy a new KZ1000 or 1100 Kawasaki back in the early 80s, even 400 miles to a quart was accepted as normal to Kawasaki.
OK, no more oil problem talk. I mentioned earlier the small complaints of traction control ect. Other that that, have to disagree with some complaints, like the fueling. The Gen 2 is a big upgrade from the Gen 1 in fueling. In my mind it works very well, and as to the cruise control, it works brilliantly. I have the GL1800 as well with cruise, and the Tenere is so far better, not even close, in how that cruise works.
OK, no more oil problem talk. I mentioned earlier the small complaints of traction control ect. Other that that, have to disagree with some complaints, like the fueling. The Gen 2 is a big upgrade from the Gen 1 in fueling. In my mind it works very well, and as to the cruise control, it works brilliantly. I have the GL1800 as well with cruise, and the Tenere is so far better, not even close, in how that cruise works.
Xclimation
Well-Known Member
I went back and read those threads when I did my first oil change on my Gen 1 and I've learned to do exactly what you do.snakebitten said:
But....it is a beef. I'm kind of OCD about oil and temperature so it can be hard!
Yea, that OCD stuff is alien to me. So I can only offer empathy. 
I recently removed the oil sump and after spending some time analyzing the way this bike stores and manages oil, no wonder the site window is causes more angst than confidence.
Now I'm even LESS concerned than I ever was. There is huge margin of error on quantity in this bike. (Opposite of say, a dirtbike with barely more than a quart in its sump) And there is the obvious insurance of the oil-level warning light that I now can see will be triggered even when there is still a considerable amount of oil on hand for the pump to scavenge from.
Also, by the way, because removing the sump results in a complete loss of all oil, the bike requires a full gallon of oil, despite the documented requirement of 3.6 quarts for an oil change. Again, you can easily see why when you view the chest cavity. There are a lot of places Oil is stored all over this bike. Pulling the 2 drain plugs doesn't bleed this thing completely out.
(Sorry if knowing there IS\might still be oil in there after it stops draining will drive you OCD dude nuts!)
I recently removed the oil sump and after spending some time analyzing the way this bike stores and manages oil, no wonder the site window is causes more angst than confidence.
Now I'm even LESS concerned than I ever was. There is huge margin of error on quantity in this bike. (Opposite of say, a dirtbike with barely more than a quart in its sump) And there is the obvious insurance of the oil-level warning light that I now can see will be triggered even when there is still a considerable amount of oil on hand for the pump to scavenge from.
Also, by the way, because removing the sump results in a complete loss of all oil, the bike requires a full gallon of oil, despite the documented requirement of 3.6 quarts for an oil change. Again, you can easily see why when you view the chest cavity. There are a lot of places Oil is stored all over this bike. Pulling the 2 drain plugs doesn't bleed this thing completely out.
(Sorry if knowing there IS\might still be oil in there after it stops draining will drive you OCD dude nuts!)
Xclimation
Well-Known Member
Actually....I appreciate this info.! Thank You! I'll worry even less! I had a feeling this bike stores oil in various locations and the level happens to be where the oil is when I shut my bike off.....I just take a look at how much comes out when I change the oil and add about 3.7. I lean the bike side to side a little. Probably not nearly as much as Jaxson. But trust Yamaha quality and unless my temp. is running high and/or I notice a difference in butt dyno. not too concerned.snakebitten said:Yea, that OCD stuff is alien to me. So I can only offer empathy.
I recently removed the oil sump and after spending some time analyzing the way this bike stores and manages oil, no wonder the site window is causes more angst than confidence.
Now I'm even LESS concerned than I ever was. There is huge margin of error on quantity in this bike. (Opposite of say, a dirtbike with barely more than a quart in its sump) And there is the obvious insurance of the oil-level warning light that I now can see will be triggered even when there is still a considerable amount of oil on hand for the pump to scavenge from.
Also, by the way, because removing the sump results in a complete loss of all oil, the bike requires a full gallon of oil, despite the documented requirement of 3.6 quarts for an oil change. Again, you can easily see why when you view the chest cavity. There are a lot of places Oil is stored all over this bike. Pulling the 2 drain plugs doesn't bleed this thing completely out.
(Sorry if knowing there IS\might still be oil in there after it stops draining will drive you OCD dude nuts!)
I guess I'm naïve about these type of things. I ass-ume that Yamaha has not designed the Tenere to fail. So, when the manual tells me to do something, and when to do it....I do so. I know that I am not smart enough to reinvent the wheel/improve on their design, so I don't try.
::021::
::021::
gv550
Well-Known Member
Damn you.......... Now I have to remove my sump every oil change! :snakebitten said:Yea, that OCD stuff is alien to me. So I can only offer empathy.
I recently removed the oil sump and after spending some time analyzing the way this bike stores and manages oil, no wonder the site window is causes more angst than confidence.
Now I'm even LESS concerned than I ever was. There is huge margin of error on quantity in this bike. (Opposite of say, a dirtbike with barely more than a quart in its sump) And there is the obvious insurance of the oil-level warning light that I now can see will be triggered even when there is still a considerable amount of oil on hand for the pump to scavenge from.
Also, by the way, because removing the sump results in a complete loss of all oil, the bike requires a full gallon of oil, despite the documented requirement of 3.6 quarts for an oil change. Again, you can easily see why when you view the chest cavity. There are a lot of places Oil is stored all over this bike. Pulling the 2 drain plugs doesn't bleed this thing completely out.
(Sorry if knowing there IS\might still be oil in there after it stops draining will drive you OCD dude nuts!)
R
RonH
Guest
Don't worry about the oil level too much as mentioned, but if it gets a little low the oil light will light up. I found on my 2012 if I put in exactly the oil volume specified during a change, the level would appear low in the window, and whithin a week I would start seeing the oil light and had to add a few oz. Now on my 2017 I change the oil to the specified amount and again the oil looks low in the window, so add a few oz to bring it up, and all is well. The level on both of mine always seem pretty consistant, I just put it on the centerstand after a ride and look at the window. I know many see wild fluctuations it seems like, but I just see oil filling the window. If not add a few oz.
mebgardner
Active Member
Since I *think* I know good reasons not to put too much oil in a car motor (ie: don't overfill)...
Now that I know this info from above, should I get excited about registering too much oil in the check window?
(Also, I'm still looking for the "board approved" method for checking said window. I did not see a reply, so I'm humbly requesting again. Thank You!)
Now that I know this info from above, should I get excited about registering too much oil in the check window?
(Also, I'm still looking for the "board approved" method for checking said window. I did not see a reply, so I'm humbly requesting again. Thank You!)
Page 7-12 & 13 in the owners manual. While it is not intuitive to me, because I was always trained to check the oil before starting an engine, it does work. Oil in this beast is supposed to be warmed up first then wait a few minutes after shut-off before checking.mebgardner said:
1. Put it level on center stand.
2. Start it and let it warm up to 140* F. (You can use the menu to find the temp.)
3. Shut it off and wait for "a few" minutes for the oil to settle.
4. Check the level in the window and adjust accordingly.
As long as it's close don't "chase" it trying to get it exact. It may vary from one check to the next. It's not that precise and doesn't need to be. Measure precisely when you change, and you should be fine.
mebgardner
Active Member
My *biggest* beef with this cycle? Oh Boy, I sure can answer that now!
Short Answer: Crappy Seat, seems Unfix-able. My balls are stinging on every ride longer than 30 minutes.
Slightly Longer Answer:
Brought it home, and thought the seat pushed me somewhat into the gas tank. OK, searched the interwebs, and this forum was very helpful in describing and offering fixes for this issue. Implemented the fixes, huh, problem is still there.
Got the seat re-upholstered by Seat Concepts, and left the "slight tilt fix" described elsewhere in this forum applied. Problem Still There.
I have folks councelling patience, that it will "break in", as I make the adjustment in riding position and the seat begins to conform to my butt.
Man, I dunno. I've owned and operated dozens of cycles, and this is this first one to make my balls burn, by pushing me forward into the gas tank. It makes me short tempered and short with patience.
So, I'm gonna be as patient as I can, but I feel it wont last long. I'm already looking at taking a bath on this thing and getting something else. Its that bad...
Short Answer: Crappy Seat, seems Unfix-able. My balls are stinging on every ride longer than 30 minutes.
Slightly Longer Answer:
Brought it home, and thought the seat pushed me somewhat into the gas tank. OK, searched the interwebs, and this forum was very helpful in describing and offering fixes for this issue. Implemented the fixes, huh, problem is still there.
Got the seat re-upholstered by Seat Concepts, and left the "slight tilt fix" described elsewhere in this forum applied. Problem Still There.
I have folks councelling patience, that it will "break in", as I make the adjustment in riding position and the seat begins to conform to my butt.
Man, I dunno. I've owned and operated dozens of cycles, and this is this first one to make my balls burn, by pushing me forward into the gas tank. It makes me short tempered and short with patience.
So, I'm gonna be as patient as I can, but I feel it wont last long. I'm already looking at taking a bath on this thing and getting something else. Its that bad...
R
RonH
Guest
If the Tenere seat is that terrible, what motorcycle has a better seat? Just wondering. Looking at all the competition, the BMW, Africa Twin, V Strom, Multistrada, KTM, ect, All of those just from seeing pictures are enough to know none of them will be like sitting home on a sofa. Then there is the Harley system, that doesn't work at all. Seats are pretty rough to get perfect, but the Super Tenere is better than most out there in my opinion.
corndog
"If it isn't broken, it can still be fixed"
Nobody said it.....hmmm.....oh well here goes.......ADJUSTING THE VALVES SUX.
As for oil and I am CDO (that's OCD alphabetized like it should be), I do the following.
1) At oil change, refill till it is in the glass. Start it and idle for 5 seconds or so. Stop engine. Fill to lower mark in glass and no more. The next day it will be at upper mark after a longer ride.
2) The rest of the time I check it at fill ups after it is turned off and has set long enough to fill it with gas. Perfect on top line.
My 2012 burned about 3/4 quart oil (M1/4T Syn) every 5,000 miles all the way to 40,000 miles. Mileage was around 44 mpg.
My 2015 burns less than 1/4 quart oil (M1/4T Syn) every 5,000 miles at break in, 5,000 miles and is looking the same for 10,000 miles. Mileage is around 48 mpg.
As for oil and I am CDO (that's OCD alphabetized like it should be), I do the following.
1) At oil change, refill till it is in the glass. Start it and idle for 5 seconds or so. Stop engine. Fill to lower mark in glass and no more. The next day it will be at upper mark after a longer ride.
2) The rest of the time I check it at fill ups after it is turned off and has set long enough to fill it with gas. Perfect on top line.
My 2012 burned about 3/4 quart oil (M1/4T Syn) every 5,000 miles all the way to 40,000 miles. Mileage was around 44 mpg.
My 2015 burns less than 1/4 quart oil (M1/4T Syn) every 5,000 miles at break in, 5,000 miles and is looking the same for 10,000 miles. Mileage is around 48 mpg.