Process to replace stock hoses for longer ones

[jasonmb]

Im ready to add some handlebar risers, but i need to order a set of the lomger hoses to give me the clearance. Im familiar and have tackled successfully replacing brake lines on my HD. Is the yamaha tenere simiar in nature? Any advice would be appreciated. If its more involved ill take it to the dealer..

My main concerns are bleading the lines once they are installed and the ABS, if there are any concerns there.

 

[Danno]

Very interested in this as well. I have the longer lines on the way now from Jaxon.

 

[jasonmb]

Ha!

You do it first and take pictures

 

[Ridetherock]

i just did this last weekend. other than the stock hoses being on super tight, and a little awkward to get at, it was no problem at all. install the lines, and bleed them as any normal non-abs bike. i did have a friend with me which made the bleeding process much easier. just remember when you bleed the lines to close the bleed nipple each time before you bottom out the lever to the bar.

 

[klunsford]

If you get the ROX risers, you will not need to extend the hoses. The clearance is just fine.

 

[zamfield]

What size risers are you getting?
I've added risers to mine and there's plenty in the hoses.

 

[Danno]

Not trying to hijack the thread here but wasn't sure to who the info about the risers was directed. I currently have risers on the bike and I'm hoping to put the 2" Rox risers on those. I m 6'6" tall with a long torso and need to get the bars up and back as much as possible. Right now with the current risers installed the front brake line is a bit tight or my liking. I'm hoping the longer lines will allow enough slack to allow use of both sets of risers. I am concerned about the length of the switch housing wiring as well.

 

[snakebitten]

Not trying to hijack the thread here but wasn't sure to who the info about the risers was directed. I currently have risers on the bike and I'm hoping to put the 2" Rox risers on those. I m 6'6" tall with a long torso and need to get the bars up and back as much as possible. Right now with the current risers installed the front brake line is a bit tight or my liking. I'm hoping the longer lines will allow enough slack to allow use of both sets of risers. I am concerned about the length of the switch housing wiring as well.

Not sure if mine are high & back enough for you. I'm not 6'6"!
But with the longer hoses from Jaxon, I'm not having issues with anything else.

I like to sit straight up and stand, as well. It made a huge difference.
2" Roxy with the pivot as far back as possible.

The pic looks a bit less extreme from that angle. But the bars are nowhere near where Yamaha had them. (Can't use the tank bag anymore. They are that far back)

Good luck.

 

[klunsford]

These are the Rox risers that I have. Lines are not stressed at all.

 

[switchback]

These are the Rox risers that I have. Lines are not stressed at all.

This is not the case with the standard pivoting ROX Risers. I have the pivoting risers with narrower CR High Bars and can use the risers without new lines but if you want maximum pull-back longer lines are needed. With the stock bars there would not be much play to work with.

If you look on Jaxon's website he has instructions included with the longer lines.

 

[avc8130]

This is not the case with the standard pivoting ROX Risers. I have the pivoting risers with narrower CR High Bars and can use the risers without new lines but if you want maximum pull-back longer lines are needed. With the stock bars there would not be much play to work with.

If you look on Jaxon's website he has instructions included with the longer lines.

Similar experience. NO WAY I would trust the stock lines with the 2" pivoting risers and stock bars. I tried it and quickly took it off. People claim it is only a problem when the bars are full left. Well, my experience is that is where the steering lock works so that happens often. It really pulls hard on the brake hose right at it's crimp. I don't need to weaken that area and risk losing brakes.

I have the stock lines with 2" risers and Pro Taper ATV Low bars. I wound up moving the brake hose mounting point a bit on the right side to create some slack.

ac

 

[Danno]

This discussion prompts another question. I thought of trying to rotate the bars towards me to see if that would help. Is everything attached to the bars pinned? Would I have to drill holes in the bars to rotate all the switch gear, mirror brackets, etc towards the front thus relieving some of the stress on the hydraulic lines? TIA.

 

[avc8130]

This discussion prompts another question. I thought of trying to rotate the bars towards me to see if that would help. Is everything attached to the bars pinned? Would I have to drill holes in the bars to rotate all the switch gear, mirror brackets, etc towards the front thus relieving some of the stress on the hydraulic lines? TIA.

The switch gear and throttle are pinned. You have to rotate a long way before the switches become unusable. The throttle doesn't matter since it rotates to work.

ac

 

[Danno]

Thank you avc. Think I will give it a try.

 

[avc8130]

I am currently in the middle of installing the long lines. WHAT A NIGHTMARE!

1st, there are NO instructions provided with the kit about how to actually swap the lines. There is an extensive bleed procedure outlined, but I haven't made it that far in the first 3 hours of work.

I ran to Sears and picked up a 10mm flare nut wrench. There was no way I could get the stock lines disconnected installed on the bike. I wound up pulling the tank and air box and feeding the lines out after disconnecting them from the slave and abs modules. Even on the bench, the brake line nut stripped before breaking free...even with the proper wrench. I wound up using a vice grip. Very butcher.

The lines are back in. The kit came with a p-clip, but no instruction on what to do with it. So I used it to replace the bracket on the right side similar to the Alt Rider method. However, the p-clip is too big to grab the naked hard line.

I'll attempt bleeding tomorrow. I actually can't believe how terrible this job has been.

ac

 

[Danno]

I hope you have a better day tomorrow. I have the lines in hand but your post has convinced me to go to the dealer.

 

[jajpko]

Doing the line swap can be a real bitch and then it can go real easy. Depends on the bike. If you can get the lines off without tearing the bike up, all you need to do to bleed the line is fill the master and gently squeeze the lever and tap on the line with a screwdriver. This will let the air come back through the master cyl.

 

[avc8130]

Doing the line swap can be a real bitch and then it can go real easy. Depends on the bike. If you can get the lines off without tearing the bike up, all you need to do to bleed the line is fill the master and gently squeeze the lever and tap on the line with a screwdriver. This will let the air come back through the master cyl.

You are exactly right. That is how it is with flared lines.

My suggestion:

From the start just remove the lines from the bike. Pull the tank and air box (good time to inspect your filter) and remove the lines. Once I had them on the bench/in the vice the process was much less stressful. In the bike it was almost impossible to get 2 wrenches in with enough room to actually do anything.

Anyone have a picture of the proper use of the p-clip?

ac

 

[Obrianmcc]

Tusk offers a couple of risers in a 15mm and 30mm option. I fit the 15 with no issue and I expect the 30 would fit with no issues as well.