Portable Battery Jumper

Fennellg

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Well you should always have a backup plan. I carry mushroom plugs, regular string plugs, and a tube. If the situation required I would jump it Off another bike or car. Traveling alone I might bring my harbor freight jump box. Batteries are usually forgiving for the first mistreatment or two. I always switch mine out if it becomes dodgy. 8 years on the second battery. I figure they go 4 or 5 years. I have had good luck with battery stuff they seem like good batteries, they last. They set me back a $65 bucks or so.

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holligl

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Thank you all for reminding me to check the charge on mine that I keep under the seat. It was sitting at about 80%. I got it several years ago after killing with the kick stand and not turning the key. I've historically bought cheap batteries, so the pack is my insurance. Like most insurance, you hope you never need it, but glad to know it's there if you do. Fits nicely under the seat (high position). I also ran jumper wiring up to the front of the gas tank so no panel removal is required.

My current plan is to go LiOn battery next time, but I've changed my mind before after checking prices.

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Fennellg

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If mine has been sitting I always hook it up to my trickle a few hours prior to departure, The bike seems to like a freshened top offed battery. Less drama, don’t have to be that guy. You know the one, balding tires that need replacing in the middle of a trip. Waiting on someone running late cause their bike did not start as planned….

Besides I always feel good if my bike starts right away and runs strong. Our bikes are not happy on weak batteries. If my bike is not happy then neither am I. Happy Life Happy Wife. Happy bike happy ridder.
 

Sierra1

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. . . . It was sitting at about 80%. . . .
"They say" that lithiums don't like being "topped off". I use all my cordless tools 'till they don't. Switch batteries and put the dead one on the charger. I have to assume the jump boxes are the same, so I don't plan on charging it again 'till it gets to about 25%. I will still start a car at that level. My question is, do car/bike batteries follow the same rules?
 

Fennellg

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True I run old school. The advantage of Lithium, it can set a while. Be mindful of the cold. Lead Acid gets me 4 or 5 years @ $60 bucks and I don’t have to change my charger. Bang for the buck, and the devil I know.

kida like our bikes, old school but gets the job done “bang for the buck”.
 
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holligl

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"They say" that lithiums don't like being "topped off". I use all my cordless tools 'till they don't. Switch batteries and put the dead one on the charger. I have to assume the jump boxes are the same, so I don't plan on charging it again 'till it gets to about 25%. I will still start a car at that level. My question is, do car/bike batteries follow the same rules?
I think it was the old NiCads that developed the memory if topped off. Never had issues topping off the Lithiums.

According to Google:
Should you let a lithium battery run down before charging?

Unlike other types of batteries that need to be recharged throughout their storage time, lithium batteries do better at 40%-50% DOD (depth of discharge). Pro-Tip: After every 30 charges, allow your lithium based battery to completely discharge before recharging. This helps to avoid a condition called digital memory.

Given the infrequency of recharging this pack, I'm not worrying about it. It will only ever get run down when I occasionally pull it out as a phone charger.

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SilverBullet

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Recently purchased this one for $69 on closeout. I already have a 600amp version from the same manufacturer that I carry on the bike and has worked great for years.

Unit w/o cable clamps as I have a hard wired cable to battery.
7" × 3-1/2" × 1-1/2"
15.5 ounces

Exact same footprint as my Samsung Galaxy but 3X the thickness.
Added nice feature of this new unit is it has wireless charging built in for your gadgets. Also unit recharges with std USB C 5v input instead of special dedicated charger.


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Fennellg

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Well I know these things work. How are you jumping off your batterie? It is not all that Convenient to get to our battery. Are you going threw a charging cable direct to the battery?
 

holligl

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Well I know these things work. How are you jumping off your batterie? It is not all that Convenient to get to our battery. Are you going threw a charging cable direct to the battery?
I ran jumper wiring up to the front of the gas tank so no panel removal is required. It has a connector that plugs directly into the pack. Velcro'd and rubber plugged.
 

Checkswrecks

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Well I know these things work. How are you jumping off your batterie? It is not all that Convenient to get to our battery. Are you going threw a charging cable direct to the battery?
I have an SAE plug tucked under the edge of a fairing panel.
 

Checkswrecks

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"They say" that lithiums don't like being "topped off". My question is, do car/bike batteries follow the same rules?
There are all sorts of lithium chemistries and some are more tolerant than others, but most of these booster packs are LiPO4 polymer pouch cells. For the most part, you want to try for 90% charge unless there's a reason to fully charge the cells and going deep discharge reduces number of possible recharges (cycle life).
More detail: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries
 

SparrowHawkxx

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I ran jumper wiring up to the front of the gas tank so no panel removal is required. It has a connector that plugs directly into the pack. Velcro'd and rubber plugged.
Yes, I highly recommend the Clampless Harness.
If you have a jump start battery and only have the clamps that go with it, I would recommend to at least check to see how the clamps fit on your motorcycle battery.

I've carried a jump start battery for 5 1/2 years and the first time I needed to use it for myself was on a trip about 3 months ago. Got distracted at a stop and left my ignition switch on.

Taking the side panel off to get to the battery is a bit of a hassle but the real problem is getting the clamps on the motorcycle battery posts/cables. With the recessed posts on the motorcycle battery and the fat ends of the clamps on the jump start battery, it was difficult to get them clamped onto the posts.

The first thing I did when I got home was order the clampless harness pigtail.
16″ Clampless Starting Harness – Antigravity Batteries
 
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SparrowHawkxx

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I ran jumper wiring up to the front of the gas tank so no panel removal is required. It has a connector that plugs directly into the pack. Velcro'd and rubber plugged.
Just to be clear, I believe SilverBullet and holligl, in the above replies, are talking about using a connector and wiring that is designed to handle the current for jump starting the motorcycle, not an SAE pigtail off the battery that is often used for lower current applications (battery tender, air pump...).
 
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Sierra1

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There are all sorts of lithium chemistries and some are more tolerant than others, but most of these booster packs are LiPO4 polymer pouch cells. For the most part, you want to try for 90% charge unless there's a reason to fully charge the cells and going deep discharge reduces number of possible recharges (cycle life).
More detail: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries
I tried to read and understand that article. Well, I read it anyway. About the only take away I got was that lithiums hate heat; knew that. And for most of the year, we're considered "high temp". And now I'm not so sure that draining my batteries before recharge is the correct way. But I do know that I can't tell any difference in charge life between any of my batteries. And some of them are 10+ years old. Ryobi, for the last few years, have had specials where you can buy two 4/5amp hr batteries for $99, and get a free tool.
 

holligl

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Just to be clear, I believe SilverBullet and holligl, in the above replies, are talking about using a connector and wiring that is designed to handle the current for jump starting the motorcycle, not an SAE pigtail off the battery that is often used for lower current applications (battery tender, air pump...).
Yes, heavier gauge, same as the jumper clamps that came with the jumper pack. I do have an SAE adapter that could also use the jumper lead. I don't recall the amps of the inline fuse that is under the panel. Seems like maybe it was a 30...
 

SilverBullet

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Just to be clear, I believe SilverBullet and holligl, in the above replies, are talking about using a connector and wiring that is designed to handle the current for jump starting the motorcycle, not an SAE pigtail off the battery that is often used for lower current applications (battery tender, air pump...).
Correct. I bought a heavy guage wire pigtail with direct to jump pack connector on Ebay, similar to your Antigravity link above. I think it has 8 or 10 guage wire.

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tntmo

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If I'm doing a solo adventure I will likely bring the portable jump pack. It's very useful just as a technology charging unit, I have a Bluetooth helmet, cell phone, maybe bring the GoPro. Having jumper cables is nice, but I tend to camp in "stealth" locations so if I wake up to find that the bike won't start then I have to walk out to find someone willing to come jump start the bike.

I have had two Shorai lithium batteries fail in the past, they started the bike absolutely perfect in the morning when I rode to work and then when I got off work the bike wouldn't turn over. Lead acid batteries tend to give more notice that they are failing. I don't put lithium batteries in anything that I plan to do any sort of solo adventuring in. Maybe they are better now, but I was fooled twice and now I feel like the fool!
 

Checkswrecks

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If I'm doing a solo adventure I will likely bring the portable jump pack. It's very useful just as a technology charging unit, I have a Bluetooth helmet, cell phone, maybe bring the GoPro. Having jumper cables is nice, but I tend to camp in "stealth" locations so if I wake up to find that the bike won't start then I have to walk out to find someone willing to come jump start the bike.

I have had two Shorai lithium batteries fail in the past, they started the bike absolutely perfect in the morning when I rode to work and then when I got off work the bike wouldn't turn over. Lead acid batteries tend to give more notice that they are failing. I don't put lithium batteries in anything that I plan to do any sort of solo adventuring in. Maybe they are better now, but I was fooled twice and now I feel like the fool!
No surprise to hear of sudden failures because the big killer of lithium batteries in bikes is the constant vibration and jarring, even in the battery holder. These things have microcircuits and REALLY little wires that lead acid and AGM do not.

On a related note, make sure to not let the corner of a lithium battery ride hard against the wall of a hard pannier. Put some kind of foam or other isolator between them.
 

Sierra1

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. . . . I have a Bluetooth helmet . . . . Lead acid batteries tend to give more notice that they are failing. . . .
I forgot about that. I'd be pissed if I was traveling without my tunes 'cuz my Sena was dead. You're right about no warning that they're getting ready to die. I like it with my tools, but yeah, on a bike wouldn't be too cool.
 

Checkswrecks

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Correct. I bought a heavy guage wire pigtail with direct to jump pack connector on Ebay, similar to your Antigravity link above. I think it has 8 or 10 guage wire.

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Better than what I have if needing a jump.
I tried to read and understand that article. Well, I read it anyway. About the only take away I got was that lithiums hate heat; knew that. And for most of the year, we're considered "high temp". And now I'm not so sure that draining my batteries before recharge is the correct way. But I do know that I can't tell any difference in charge life between any of my batteries. And some of them are 10+ years old. Ryobi, for the last few years, have had specials where you can buy two 4/5amp hr batteries for $99, and get a free tool.
Not a surprise, as the cycle life is typically in the "many thousands."
As all sorts of articles come out about new better cheaper tech using water, sodium, etc, what most don't say is that they have trouble getting an acceptably high cycle life.
 
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