PAMIR 2019

Ss1

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Здравствуйте! Думаю, эта тема будет интереснее американцам, так как люди из Европы тоже едут на Памир)) особо много писать не буду, так как пользуюсь переводчиком! Так! В 2019 году состоялась моя третья поездка в Среднюю Азию. Маршрут проходил следующим образом: Россия (Москва) -Казахстан-Узбекистан-Таджикистан-Кыргызстан-Казахстан-Россия (Алтай) -Москва. Общий пробег 15000 км. Рано утром 05.09.19 мы с другом выехали из Москвы. Проехали однообразную 1000 км до Волгограда и остановились на ночлег.
 

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Ss1

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Early the next morning, we were awakened by the sound of wheels passing by the train. We ate quickly, got together and on our way. On this day, we drove only 300 km to Lake Baskunchak. This is one of the saltiest lakes in the world. Salt has been mined here since the 8th century. The weather was starting to please, because in Moscow it was +5, and here it was already +29.
 

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Ss1

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We rode around the lake. The autumn steppe is beautiful.
 

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Ss1

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The next day we started towards the border with Kazakhstan. Kazakhstan is thousands and thousands of kilometers of steppe. The border passed quickly, because we only need a Russian passport. We made insurance for a month for $ 20 and went to the East towards Uzbekistan. There are almost no roads in most of Kazakhstan. The first 300 km drove on gravel, sand. Then asphalt appeared, if you can call it that)))
 

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Ss1

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After the border, we decided to spend the night on the shores of the Caspian Sea. When we set up camp, the military drove up to us. We checked the passport, chatted and left. The night was magical, the stars shone in such a way that it hurt your eyes.
 

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Ss1

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In general, if Kazakhstan lies in front of you, as a transit country, then boldly lay 2.5 days, it will not work less. We got to the city of Beyneu, which stands next to the border with Uzbekistan. But we don't need to go there yet. We moved towards Turkmenistan on the Ustyurt plateau. This plateau is located in three countries Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan. The road was not easy. The road passed through the steppe, and this is 150 km of sand. We collected provisions, water, food, gasoline. We covered 150 km in 8 hours.
On the way, we met the Swiss on the old Teneri 600 in 1989. We chatted, told where we were going and he drove with us.
 

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Ahead of us was the sacred place for all Kazakhs, Beket-ata. After walking around this beautiful place, we, as travelers, were fed and put to sleep. In the morning a place called the Boszhira Tract was waiting for us. The Boszhira tract is one of the most beautiful places in Kazakhstan, which is a whole range of rock formations of various sizes and shapes. It is located at the bottom of a huge canyon in the western part of the Ustyurt plateau on the Mangyshlak peninsula. There is also a mountain of the same name, the height of which at its peak reaches 287 meters. The entrance to the tract is preceded by a kind of "fangs" - remnants, which have become the hallmark of these places.
 

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Ss1

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More photos from the Bozhir tract.
 

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...
 

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We did not go deeper into the Ustyurt plateau itself and moved towards Uzbekistan. From the city of Beyneu to the very border, the road made me happy. Indeed, in 2017, a section of 80 km was covered in 2 hours, and now in 20 minutes. This time we were heavily searched at the border. Checked as usual for drugs and illicit drugs. They say they sometimes check their phones for naked women and porn videos. This is all prohibited in Uzbekistan. The border was passed in 2 hours. And here she is, Uzbek delicious and cheap food. But there is also a huge disadvantage. There are almost no filling stations with petrol, only gas stations. Roads for 3 years have become a little better, but still far from ideal.
We arrived at the city of Nukus and spent the night there.
 

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Ss1

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On the way we stopped at the Chilpyk mountain. It can be seen that where the Amur Darya River flows there is life, but on the other hand, there is no life.
 

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Ss1

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We stopped at a cafe, after which in 2017 my TDM900 broke down and I could not get out for a week. Where I was sheltered and registered. And now I am waiting in awe when we will go further to my friends from the city of Gurlen. After eating the most delicious melons in the world, we moved on. I would like to make a reservation, I do not write about the prices, since I constantly have to translate into $, but I will say that Kazakhstan is very cheap, Uzbekistan is mega-cheap. Eating costs from $ 2-3. Gasoline is the cheapest in Kazakhstan for less than half $. Housing on average from $ 10-15.
Cotton also grows here, the cheapest and one of the best.
 

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