Longhaulpaul
Any Day You Can Ride is a Good Day!
After over 30 motorcycles, most never staying in the garage for over a year, I do have to admit I love my 2012 Super Tenere.
One month away from it turning three years old and I have enjoyed all 130,000 miles. I do have a few thoughts on chronic issues that I'd like to share or run by the group.
Please understand I have done little maintenance other than oil, plugs, pads and filters. I have synched the TB a few times as well. Never checked the valves, never changed brake or clutch fluid. I did replace the fork seals and oil at 100,000 but the Stock rear shock is still back there somewhere. I lost a spoke once. Checked the others twice in 130,000 miles. Yeah, I'm serious.
Only breakdown was a clutch basket that blew apart at 105,000 miles as I was making my way to the ADV Rally in WV. It was chattering loudly for 25,000 miles prior, I just ignored it and thought it was the cam chain tensioner. The clutch basket rivets popped out ,and because I rode it 30 miles while it was crunching and grinding, it wore a groove in the engine case and eventually exploded. A few miles later the motor sort of locked up. I finally pulled over and had my first ride in a trailer. A couple days later, I removed the large chunks of shrapnel, replaced the basket with the newer version and JB Welded the crack in the engine case. That was in September and 25,000 miles ago. Look for a post about it on my website soon called, A Ticket, A Tasket, A broken Clutch Basket.
I have experienced the rough running issues at a variety of times and have traced it back to two separate issues.
1. Water in the #1 and #2 plug holes despite meticulously greasing the gaskets, and have found coils that have arched enough to short out. If the plugs are not seated all the way down and tightened properly, the coils may also crack at the bottoms when you snug the coil bolts. I think as time goes on, the aluminum spacer in the coil gets thinner and torqueing down the bolt pushes the coil onto the ceramic tip of the sparkplug causing it (coil) to crack and be susceptible to arching. Check your coils, especially at the very tip (remove rubber ) for cracks or signs of arching. I had one coil arching so bad that looked like it was chewed by a squirrel.
Any time I have had rough running issues, they were most likely fixed by replacing plugs and cleaning/ replacing bad coils.
2. I have also had issues with large amounts of water and oil in my airbox (after the filter) for the past 60,000 miles and have installed a longer drain that I can access at a gas stop. I have used both K&N and factory air filters and have sealed and resealed the airbox. After experiencing very poor running conditions, I have had as much as 3/4's of a cup of water drain out of the airbox after 8 -10 hours on the highway in heavy rain, but also 1/4 cup of water after no rain what so ever. I spend a lot of time on the freeway at high speeds and now find a couple of ounces of oil and sludge daily. I'm now emptying the drain on a regular basis. Antifreeze level has been checked and no loss there. I only add oil after the light comes on and stays for while, so I'm definitely not over filling it! There is no signs of water, fuel or antifreeze in the oil when it gets changed. Crankcase vent pipe is clear and no signs of sludge. Might be getting some blow-by, but doesn't explain the water.
As far as the common hard start issue, Yes, I have experienced it and have had the side stand code appear for a few weeks at a time twice. The first time I replaced the switch and it worked for a few days. When it reappeared 3-4,000 miles later, I traced it to a state of charge battery issue. Anytime since that I have a hard or almost no- start issue, it can be remedied by throwing a trickle charger on the battery overnight ONCE, and the issue goes away for months. I think the EFI system needs a fully charged battery to start and run well. Shutting down all the farkles (and I have a few) each time before start up guarantees it will start right up. In the extreme winter cold it becomes very important to shut off heated accessories a few miles before stopping for the night as well, to ensure a good start the next day in sub freezing temperatures. I have also replaced the battery and then experienced the same symptoms if that is what you are thinking! Ground straps have been checked and also have check electrical for parasitic drain. Just seems to happen every once in a while.
Again, these are the only issues I have had despite completely abusing this bike for almost three years!
The Super Tenere is the first bike I have enjoyed riding so much, I have acquired another ST to replace it when this one finally wears out!
Longhaulpaul
Chasing The Cure
Join me in this year's MS5000 motorcycle fundraiser. Ride as many miles as you can over 50 days for Multiple Sclerosis
www.MS5000.org
One month away from it turning three years old and I have enjoyed all 130,000 miles. I do have a few thoughts on chronic issues that I'd like to share or run by the group.
Please understand I have done little maintenance other than oil, plugs, pads and filters. I have synched the TB a few times as well. Never checked the valves, never changed brake or clutch fluid. I did replace the fork seals and oil at 100,000 but the Stock rear shock is still back there somewhere. I lost a spoke once. Checked the others twice in 130,000 miles. Yeah, I'm serious.
Only breakdown was a clutch basket that blew apart at 105,000 miles as I was making my way to the ADV Rally in WV. It was chattering loudly for 25,000 miles prior, I just ignored it and thought it was the cam chain tensioner. The clutch basket rivets popped out ,and because I rode it 30 miles while it was crunching and grinding, it wore a groove in the engine case and eventually exploded. A few miles later the motor sort of locked up. I finally pulled over and had my first ride in a trailer. A couple days later, I removed the large chunks of shrapnel, replaced the basket with the newer version and JB Welded the crack in the engine case. That was in September and 25,000 miles ago. Look for a post about it on my website soon called, A Ticket, A Tasket, A broken Clutch Basket.
I have experienced the rough running issues at a variety of times and have traced it back to two separate issues.
1. Water in the #1 and #2 plug holes despite meticulously greasing the gaskets, and have found coils that have arched enough to short out. If the plugs are not seated all the way down and tightened properly, the coils may also crack at the bottoms when you snug the coil bolts. I think as time goes on, the aluminum spacer in the coil gets thinner and torqueing down the bolt pushes the coil onto the ceramic tip of the sparkplug causing it (coil) to crack and be susceptible to arching. Check your coils, especially at the very tip (remove rubber ) for cracks or signs of arching. I had one coil arching so bad that looked like it was chewed by a squirrel.
Any time I have had rough running issues, they were most likely fixed by replacing plugs and cleaning/ replacing bad coils.
2. I have also had issues with large amounts of water and oil in my airbox (after the filter) for the past 60,000 miles and have installed a longer drain that I can access at a gas stop. I have used both K&N and factory air filters and have sealed and resealed the airbox. After experiencing very poor running conditions, I have had as much as 3/4's of a cup of water drain out of the airbox after 8 -10 hours on the highway in heavy rain, but also 1/4 cup of water after no rain what so ever. I spend a lot of time on the freeway at high speeds and now find a couple of ounces of oil and sludge daily. I'm now emptying the drain on a regular basis. Antifreeze level has been checked and no loss there. I only add oil after the light comes on and stays for while, so I'm definitely not over filling it! There is no signs of water, fuel or antifreeze in the oil when it gets changed. Crankcase vent pipe is clear and no signs of sludge. Might be getting some blow-by, but doesn't explain the water.
As far as the common hard start issue, Yes, I have experienced it and have had the side stand code appear for a few weeks at a time twice. The first time I replaced the switch and it worked for a few days. When it reappeared 3-4,000 miles later, I traced it to a state of charge battery issue. Anytime since that I have a hard or almost no- start issue, it can be remedied by throwing a trickle charger on the battery overnight ONCE, and the issue goes away for months. I think the EFI system needs a fully charged battery to start and run well. Shutting down all the farkles (and I have a few) each time before start up guarantees it will start right up. In the extreme winter cold it becomes very important to shut off heated accessories a few miles before stopping for the night as well, to ensure a good start the next day in sub freezing temperatures. I have also replaced the battery and then experienced the same symptoms if that is what you are thinking! Ground straps have been checked and also have check electrical for parasitic drain. Just seems to happen every once in a while.
Again, these are the only issues I have had despite completely abusing this bike for almost three years!
The Super Tenere is the first bike I have enjoyed riding so much, I have acquired another ST to replace it when this one finally wears out!
Longhaulpaul
Chasing The Cure
Join me in this year's MS5000 motorcycle fundraiser. Ride as many miles as you can over 50 days for Multiple Sclerosis
www.MS5000.org
