OEM top case woes

[bort]

I got a brand new top case from stadium yamaha and it doesn't seem right.

1) the latch to release the box from the bike plate is sprung open a little bit (1/2 inch or so) even when locked on the bike its still sprung out.

2) trying to get the key to turn to open the lid or to release the box from the box it really feels like I'm going to twist the key off in the cylinder.

3) turning the key to open the lid will not activate the latch.


I've tried 2 different cylinders in it and they both feel the same. I don't see how the little tit on the back of the cylinder can get the metal disk to engage the locking mech. I don't see how the metal disk on the back of the lock cylinder can go anyway but one. (the metal fin seems like it needs to go in the dentents on the plastic box frame) The final issue is I'm not sure how the local baltimore dealership will react if I try to warrenty the box with them. Has anybody had any similar experience or even better a way to fix the box?

 

[trikepilot]

Sounds like something is a bit off kilter with the install. I put the locks in all three of my cases without issue.

Got any pix of what you are seeing once your locks are in. Keeping these locks well lubed has been key. And be sure to go get some aftermarket keys made. There are threads here that document it, but the OEM keys are a soft alloy that will bend badly in a case lock with minimal pressure. Getting some aftermarket keys made at Ace solved all my problems with bending keys.

 

[carrot]

just spray some lubrication in the key hole and you have to push down on the lid before you turn the key .

 

[terryth]

Yes, the locking/latching mechanism of the Yamaha top case is complete junk, mine was sprung from the beginning and jury rigged to sort of work until I replaced it recently.

 

[jbrown]

I'm just checking here, you're saying the latch is sprung out a bit when the key has been locked?
The latch is out a bit after attaching the box, but you must push it in before turning the key, then it stays in. At least that's what mine does.

 

[Yorkie]

Did you remove the small screw inside the box that holds the latch in the open position, you should have instructions that are pretty clear. I know this because I just installed a lock into my new top case and put it on the bike, in about 20 mins, with no issue

 

[bort]

yes I removed the shipping screw my latch is ( lid hook) will not move out of the closed (12 oclock) position

with my key in the nuetral detent postion the lower removal latch is sprung out 1/2 inch. When I remove the key from the cylinder the latch remains sprung out 1/2 inch and when pushed in it will not stay flush to the case.

I called yamaha instead of sending it back to tx I'm gonna try to warranty the case at the local dealership. I'm really starting to wish would have ponied up the extra cash and just got the jesse top box to go with the odesseys on the side. You'll know what happens tomorrow.

 

[Yorkie]

yes I removed the shipping screw my latch is ( lid hook) will not move out of the closed (12 oclock) position

with my key in the nuetral detent postion the lower removal latch is sprung out 1/2 inch. When I remove the key from the cylinder the latch remains sprung out 1/2 inch and when pushed in it will not stay flush to the case.

I called yamaha instead of sending it back to tx I'm gonna try to warranty the case at the local dealership. I'm really starting to wish would have ponied up the extra cash and just got the jesse top box to go with the odesseys on the side. You'll know what happens tomorrow.

Well that sucks, I hope you get it resolved quickly, I'm really happy with the quality of the OEM cases, I know they aren't as big as some of the aftermarket ones, but build quality is great on mine, I like them more than the ones I had on my 2012 DL650 Adventure

 

[Mchaskell]

Your symptoms sound similar to mine when I accidentally let the case bracket release spring out to the removal position before I inserted the lock cylinder. The solution in my situation was to remove the lock cylinder and reset the case release mechanism then reinsert the lock cylinder.

 

[Yorkie]

Your symptoms sound similar to mine when I accidentally let the case bracket release spring out to the removal position before I inserted the lock cylinder. The solution in my situation was to remove the lock cylinder and reset the case release mechanism then reinsert the lock cylinder.

I misread the problem last night, I was thinking it was the lid latch. I believe you have the answer Sir

 

[bort]

how do you reset the mechanism? I'm not familiar with the release spring? are you refering to the shipping screw that holds the top lid latch open?

 

[Mchaskell]

Ok...FWIW

The case locking mechanism that the lock cylinder mounts into has a transfer bar that allows the case removal lever (for lack of a better term) to spring out (pop out from here on) so you can grab on to it and remove the case from the Tenere. When the case is locked to the bike the case removal lever should sit flush to the case. The case removal lever should pop out when the key is turned to the remove position, otherwise it should be in the lock position which is flush to the case…however if you screw up like I did, the case removal lever can pop out to the remove position without the lock cylinder installed.

If the lock cylinder is installed with the case removal lever popped out it will never go to the flush position against the case and the key will be very difficult to turn. The back of the lock cylinder (the part you attach with screws) is crowned to fit into the case locking mechanism and you can “force” it to go together with everything catawampus.

I removed the lock cylinder from the case and I pushed the case removal lever flush to the case (You need to hold it in while you realign the locking mechanism, it will not stay flush without pressure.). Then I turned the case locking mechanism (the part the lock cylinder mounts into) back to the position it was shipped in using the crowned back plate (the part you screw to the lock cylinder from inside the case) from the lock cylinder as a tool to turn the mechanism and reinserted the shipping screw to hold everything in place. You will know when this is correct because the case removal lever will stay flush to the case (you should no longer need to use pressure to hold it flush) without the lock cylinder installed. Then I reassembled the lock cylinder to the case locking mechanism.

Sorry this is so wordy; I don't have any pictures to help explain it.

 

[merchant]

just spray some lubrication in the key hole and you have to push down on the lid before you turn the key .

I've been told to never use any spray lubricants in a lock. They tend to attract dirt and jam up the locking mechanism. Instead, use powdered graphite. Put some on the key and use the key to work it into the lock.

 

[bort]

Ok...FWIW

The case locking mechanism that the lock cylinder mounts into has a transfer bar that allows the case removal lever (for lack of a better term) to spring out (pop out from here on) so you can grab on to it and remove the case from the Tenere. When the case is locked to the bike the case removal lever should sit flush to the case. The case removal lever should pop out when the key is turned to the remove position, otherwise it should be in the lock position which is flush to the case…however if you screw up like I did, the case removal lever can pop out to the removal position without the lock cylinder installed.

If the lock cylinder is installed with the case removal lever popped out it will never go to the flush position against the case and the key will be very difficult to turn. The back of the lock cylinder (the part you attach with screws) is crowned to fit into the case locking mechanism and you can “force” it to go together with everything catawampus.

I removed the lock cylinder from the case and I pushed the case removal lever flush to the case. Then I turned the case locking mechanism (the part the lock cylinder mounts into) back to the position it was shipped in using the crowned back plate (the part you screw to the lock cylinder from inside the case) from the lock cylinder as a tool to turn the mechanism and reinserted the shipping screw to hold everything in place. You will know when this is correct because the case removal lever will stay flush to the case without the lock cylinder installed. Then I reassembled the lock cylinder to the case locking mechanism.

Sorry this is so wordy; I don't have any pictures to help explain it.

This is perfect,.there is no such thing as to wordy with me.

 

[Yorkie]

Ok...FWIW

The case locking mechanism that the lock cylinder mounts into has a transfer bar that allows the case removal lever (for lack of a better term) to spring out (pop out from here on) so you can grab on to it and remove the case from the Tenere. When the case is locked to the bike the case removal lever should sit flush to the case. The case removal lever should pop out when the key is turned to the remove position, otherwise it should be in the lock position which is flush to the case…however if you screw up like I did, the case removal lever can pop out to the remove position without the lock cylinder installed.

If the lock cylinder is installed with the case removal lever popped out it will never go to the flush position against the case and the key will be very difficult to turn. The back of the lock cylinder (the part you attach with screws) is crowned to fit into the case locking mechanism and you can “force” it to go together with everything catawampus.

I removed the lock cylinder from the case and I pushed the case removal lever flush to the case (You need to hold it in while you realign the locking mechanism, it will not stay flush without pressure.). Then I turned the case locking mechanism (the part the lock cylinder mounts into) back to the position it was shipped in using the crowned back plate (the part you screw to the lock cylinder from inside the case) from the lock cylinder as a tool to turn the mechanism and reinserted the shipping screw to hold everything in place. You will know when this is correct because the case removal lever will stay flush to the case (you should no longer need to use pressure to hold it flush) without the lock cylinder installed. Then I reassembled the lock cylinder to the case locking mechanism.

Sorry this is so wordy; I don't have any pictures to help explain it.

Great information

 

[bort]

thanks for everyones help. I was able to warranty the case at a local dealership. it was like pulling teeth but it worked. all I can say is don't be afraid to call the mothership yamaha 1800 #. they were a very big help.

 

[bort]

UPDATE the dealership (Petes cycle rosedale MD) said that it would take about 2 weeks for my new topcase to come in...
Getting close to the day they said it would come in I figured I would call just to check on the progress. Thank God I did! After i gave them my info the parts guy at petes cycle said they were waiting for an OK from yamaha to warrenty the part 8) (wtf?!?!?!) I left my top case with them and they are still waiting? I called yamaha customer service line to ask what was going on. Yamaha informed me they have not received any warrenty request from Petes cycle in rosedale MD! Basically these people have been sitting on my case for 2 weeks with out even turning it in for warrenty, all this after yamaha customer service called petes cycle in rosedale MD (with me standing at the counter) and talked to the parts monkey and told them to warrenty the part! This is getting out of hand.

 

[bort]

PROBLEM SOLVED...

After getting the second case and seeing that the lower latch was sprung same as the first. I sat down and really read and understood mchaskells post. First I made sure the backing plate with the fin on it to the correct orientation (there is one smaller than the rest so clock these together). Next I tried to make the backing plate with no lock cylinder spin with a cut up coat hanger through the two safety torx blt holes with no luck. Finally in a moment of brilllance I thought to put a small screw driver on the fin and use this as a lever to get the locking mech to turn whilest my other hand held the lower latch closed. Sure enough when I found the sweet spot and the lower latch was flush. thanks to all for the help!

 

[Mchaskell]

::008:: I am glad you got everything working.