That does sound better. 
Observations and questions from my ride home..........
- Thread starter pqsqac
- Start date
warnabrother
New Member
Australian bikes have hazards and headlight flasher... 8) 8)
switch controls are indexed. I trimmed my bars down and simply drilled new holes in the bars where i wanted the swithces mounted. As mentioned brake and clutch float.
curious to hear about the windshiled. I am happy at 100kpm/60mph, but the fun factor is cruising 150 plus and the buffeting is no good...
curious to hear about the windshiled. I am happy at 100kpm/60mph, but the fun factor is cruising 150 plus and the buffeting is no good...
Yes, to be clear here, there are two separate perches on either side: clutch/brake lever perches, and switch housings. The former has a large bolt and steel clamps that develop significant clamping pressure so they are typically unindexed; the latter typically relies on self-tapping screws in plastic and can't develop much clamping pressure, so to be rotationally stable, indexing pins are used.
Most riders are much more sensitive to lever angles, so rotating the lever perches may be all the adjustability you need; the switch housings can be off a bit and not be a problem. But if you have the bars significantly rotated away from typical positions or like your levers at odd angles (many riders like them steeper than the typical flat stock position), you might reach the point where you can't rotate the perches enough without fouling the switch housings.
When you're messing around with this stuff, be sure to always check for fairing, screen, and tank (and tankbag) fouling issues. One common issue is that some riders like the mirrors relatively far forward where they foul the windscreen, especially if you fit a wider-than-stock screen.
To drill new indexing holes, my experience is that you can drill alum bars in-situ with a hand drill, but it is much harder to drill steel bars like the S10's. So you may need to remove the bars and perhaps even use a drill press. I still recommend you do it though for the reasons I stated earlier.
I offer all this without a bike of my own to check any of this out on. Most bikes are pretty similar in this regard and I have probably fitted new bars, screens, mirrors, grips, etc. on ten different bikes over the years. Some fiddling and compromise is usually required.
- Mark
Most riders are much more sensitive to lever angles, so rotating the lever perches may be all the adjustability you need; the switch housings can be off a bit and not be a problem. But if you have the bars significantly rotated away from typical positions or like your levers at odd angles (many riders like them steeper than the typical flat stock position), you might reach the point where you can't rotate the perches enough without fouling the switch housings.
When you're messing around with this stuff, be sure to always check for fairing, screen, and tank (and tankbag) fouling issues. One common issue is that some riders like the mirrors relatively far forward where they foul the windscreen, especially if you fit a wider-than-stock screen.
To drill new indexing holes, my experience is that you can drill alum bars in-situ with a hand drill, but it is much harder to drill steel bars like the S10's. So you may need to remove the bars and perhaps even use a drill press. I still recommend you do it though for the reasons I stated earlier.
I offer all this without a bike of my own to check any of this out on. Most bikes are pretty similar in this regard and I have probably fitted new bars, screens, mirrors, grips, etc. on ten different bikes over the years. Some fiddling and compromise is usually required.
- Mark