Cycledude
Well-Known Member
My 525,000+ mile Goldwing has been run with what many folks would call car oil for 90+ % of its life and it still has the original clutch which still works perfect.
Mobile 1 4T, the oil in question, is a motorcycle specific oil and does meet JASA MA standards.Mobil1 does not meet JASO MA and tehcnically is not the best for the clutch. That said, it's been used successfully in these bikes since the beginning, and in the FJRs before that.
Personally I use Rotella T6, which does meet the JASO.
I used to love the smell of belray in the 2 stroke bikes. MmmSearching forum gave nothing, so I'll ask: does anybody use BelRay oil?
Eric...would say without oil analysis or tear down as you did, it’s all subjective on proper oil and impact from oil. As long as the oil used meets the spec for an engine and is changed on proper intervals, an engine should be ok. Most oil threads seem to be based on hear say or emotion. Enjoy the new scoots ...cheersMobile 1 4T, the oil in question, is a motorcycle specific oil and does meet JASA MA standards.
To the OP, go for it. ANY motorcycle specific oil will work fine. The V-twin rated oils are designed for dry clutch systems and the Super Ten is a wet clutch, where the engine oil is lubing the trans and clutch too, so those are best to avoid, and mostly heavier weight 20-50 rated oils.
Rotella T6 has some advantages, being MA rated and synthetic, but does not have as much zinc in it now, which is a gear lubricant, important for engines that share the trans oil with the engine. The Rotella's target audience is diesel engines. For many, many miles I ran Rotella T6 with a half a bottle of Valvoline oil treatment, (mostly 50 wt oil, but has extra zinc in it), w/o issues. When my engine was torn down at 83k on my 2012 Super Tenere due to CCT failure, a lot of sludge and carbon build up was noticed. After that, I changed to only moto specific oils, in part as a test to see if things would improve. I continue to change my oil every 5k miles, as I did before. On the 2012, I used a regular additive of Yamaha Ring Free, (now Ring Free plus for E10), and it does appear to improve resistance to carbon build up when used regularly with fill ups.
I agree with you Roger. At the end of the day, I'll use just about anything as long as it's not "energy conserving" on the label, which means friction modifiers/additives that could potentially mess with the clutch friction disks. The other day I stumbled across gallon jugs of Mobil One full synthetic turbo diesel oil for $13.00 on the close out isle. Should have bought all five at that price. I love Motul for liter plus bikes run hard or extended intervals between changes, but it's $50+ a gallon most of the time I find it. Note the various specs. I did the FZ6 oil change with the Mobil One and it's been happy with it, subjectively, of course.Eric...would say without oil analysis or tear down as you did, it’s all subjective on proper oil and impact from oil. As long as the oil used meets the spec for an engine and is changed on proper intervals, an engine should be ok. Most oil threads seem to be based on hear say or emotion. Enjoy the new scoots ...cheers
Hello there. What did you mean by “API advanced to SJ”. The required oil must be SG rated. Does SJ work? Thank you.The OP statement statement above did not include all of this info. Agree JASO spec oils are suitable.
For the folks not completely familiar, the term "car oil" could lead them astray. I got burned by not being familiar with what changed when API advanced to SJ.
Remember stawberry or banana scented spectro?I used to love the smell of belray in the 2 stroke bikes. Mmm
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The API classification was advanced to SJ when the automotive industry increased the requirement for "friction modifiers" to help them meet more stringent EPA CAFE requirements. Friction modifiers (more sliperier) are hell on wet clutches.Hello there. What did you mean by “API advanced to SJ”. The required oil must be SG rated. Does SJ work? Thank you.