Making hole for a USB port

[Cycledude]

This is what Holligl is referring to. You can get cheap ones at Harbor Freight (these two are $18.00), or you can spring for some really expensive ones.

I have been using a couple of those Harbor Freight step drills for a few years now and I’m always impressed by how well they work.

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

I want to install a USB port in my 2012 S10. What is the best way to cut a hole in the left console panel? Is it possible with just household tools like drill, dremel or jigsaw?

Some things to consider if you decide to go this route:

• You will need to drill a 3 cm / 1.18 inch diameter hole and the socket will extend into the hole about 1.5 inches or so. Make sure you have clearance for that (nothing in the way). You may be able to do it but I think it's going to be close.
• If you decide later to install the Side Wind Deflectors, I think that would interfere with using the USB ports.

 

[Kruzzin5]

Because these threads inevitably involve someone saying "or, you could do it THIS way", I'll throw in my two cents.

I don't like the position of a dash mounted outlet. I used the OEM one on one of my first big trips cross country, where I had a GPS mounted to the accessory rail. The GPS power cable had to be secured to something to keep it from flopping in front of the instrument cluster, and I definitely didn't like having a power cable going from the dash to a handlebar mount. I like the look of dash infill panels, but they also look like they'd complicate maintenance tasks like changing headlight bulbs (something I've had to do multiple times on this bike) or removing the steering head.

There are a lot of handlebar mounted USB outlets available that can provide a much more convenient location than the dash to plug in a handlebar mounted accessory, and that won't involve having to cut holes in your bodywork. Amazon has a bunch of them. Touratech sells (or used to sell) a ridiculously overpriced bracket that you could mount to one of the handlebar clamps and attach an outlet there. I went with that solution, though I made my own brackets out of a piece of 1/8" aluminum:

Rather than using a dedicated USB outlet, I use a standard 12 volt outlet with a USB adapter. My 12 volt outlets are rated for 15 amps and wired with 12 gauge wire, so they can safely be used to also power an air compressor if I have a flat. Having an outlet on the bike that can run everything from a 5 volt GPS pulling milliamps to a compressor running 12 volts at 10 amps can really come in handy.

For stuff mounted to the accessory rail, I wanted the outlets to be as close as possible to the rail to eliminate long power cable runs. I have two USB outlets mounted right above the instrument cluster, so the power cables for things like my GPS or phone only have to be about 6" long.

They sit on a shelf I made from an old ammo can. The shelf bolts to some unused holes in the windshield mount, and the USB outlets screw into the shelf.

Brilliant!

 

[ra2ras]

Everyone has a solution! Here's mine:

I replaced the stock 12 volt plug with a Powerlet plug that can handle much higher amps. To handle higher amps, I redid the wiring (the OEM plug wires are a very small gauge).

With that outlet, I then got a Powerlet USB adapter. My USB cables can then be run wherever I want them. Most typically to a bar-mount bag where I keep my phone. But there are tons of configurations of adapters or splitters that can be used with that Powerlet outlet and I have near zero concern with exceeding the amp rating. I do have it running to my PDM60, so blowing the stock fuse is not an issue anymore.

This solution may be a bit more than what you need, but it also future-proofs the plug or accessory power demands that might come up down the road. Plus the Powerlet socket system is much more secure than the standard U.S. 12 volt plug.

Clearly, there are as many solutions. Good luck!

Eville Rich
2016 S10

Powerlet option looks good. Are powerlet sockets backwards compatible? Do other standard cigarette 12v type plugs work with them?

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

Powerlet option looks good. Are powerlet sockets backwards compatible? Do other standard cigarette 12v type plugs work with them?

A cigarette lighter type plug will not fit into a powerlet socket, the socket is a smaller diameter.

However the plug on portable air pumps that I have will work on both types. The end of plug is a smaller diameter and fits in the powerlet socket. It also has a plastic adapter that slides over the end to make it a larger diameter while leaving the electrical terminals open so they make a connection in the cigarette lighter socket.

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

I want both. To keep the 12v socket for some other accessories & have a separate USB one

Consider this (this is what I did):

1. Remove the OEM Cigarette lighter socket and replace it with your USB socket.

1. Remove the upper cowling on the right side. You will see a large rubber boot. The connector to the OEM cigarette lighter socket is inside this boot. Just follow the wiring from the socket to the connector and unplug it.
2. To remove the cigarette lighter socket, just remove the nut under the panel that holds it and pull it out.
3. To install your USB socket you don't need to drill a hole, but you may need to enlarge the existing hole slightly. My experience was: you could force the USB socket in the existing hole but it's really too tight, you need to enlarge the hole slightly. I just used a round chainsaw file and lightly went around the hole, it really doesn't take much.
4. Wire it up as you had planned. I connected to a switched 12V source in my fuse box with a 15 A fuse.

2. Add a new 12V socket for your other accessories.
I went with a Powerlet socket as Eville Rich talked about in Reply #18.

I used a Powerlet Socket - Socket Kit (PSO-008)​

Powerlet Socket - Socket Kit - Powerlet Products​

This Requires .6875" (11/16") hole and 2.00" behind the panel.​

This socket will fit in the space that you circled in your second picture at the top of this thread.
It will fit, I've done it with the Side Wind Deflectors on, but it's a precision fit, not much room for error. The cap that covers the socket touches the instrument cluster on the right and the Side Wind Deflectors on the left when its open.
Its been many years since I installed this so I don't remember for sure what bit I used to drill the hole but I believe it was a 11/16 Spade Bit, I checked and I do have one of these. Spade Bit, 11/16 In D, 6 In L, I/4 Shank - - Amazon.com

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

Correction to the reply above (This site doesn't allow you to edit your own replies unless you do it right away)
In step 1.4, I used a 3 A fuse for the USB socket, not a 15 A.

The Powerlet socket circuit is where I use a 15 A fuse.
It is on a 12 V unswitched circuit out of my fuse box.
I primarily use this to plug in a battery tender but can also be used to power my air pump or heated gear.
The battery tender and heated gear need an adapter to plug them in but my air pump came with a plug that works with this socket.

I think most people just use an SAE connector hanging out somewhere for these things but I prefer the Powerlet socket.
The downside is that you may need get some adapters for some things.

I say Powerlet but if you don't know, that's just a brand name that makes this type of connector.
There's all kinds of adapters available for this type connector.
Just search (Amazon, Google or whatever) for "powerlet adapter" or "hella adapter" or ....
I understand that John Deere also uses this type connector now.

And yes, that voltmeter/QC 3.0, 2 USB socket you found in your picture above appears to be made for this type connector.