ra2ras
Member
I want to install a USB port in my 2012 S10. What is the best way to cut a hole in the left console panel? Is it possible with just household tools like drill, dremel or jigsaw?
Making hole for a USB port
- Thread starter ra2ras
- Start date
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
This is what Holligl is referring to. You can get cheap ones at Harbor Freight (these two are $18.00), or you can spring for some really expensive ones.
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Fennellg
Well-Known Member
I used a spade wood bit to put a switch for my light bar.
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
If you go my way you can keep the OEM 12 volt socket plug and add yours. More is better. In the field options are good.
ra2ras
Member
I want both. To keep the 12v socket for some other accessories & have a separate USB one
Before you punch a hole there, you might consider putting it a dash infill panel instead. It gives you more room and a better fit and finished look. Once you have one, one without it looks like it is missing something.
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AusTexS10
Well-Known Member
Excellent serving suggestion. Less chance of damaging the bike if the bit goes awry, and more switch placement options available, too. Look for post under Vendors in the Forum marketplace.
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
I have found that I can turn the key to the accessory on position and use a 12 volt adaptor plug to charge my battery with my battery charger. Battery charger by black and decker. Best I ever had. Slow but reliable. Can bring just about anything back from the dead. If it can’t it is not ever going to work. One of those rare time a cheap Item rocks. It was like 14 bucks.
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Fennellg
Well-Known Member
It’s a matter of taste, and trouble.
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
Because these threads inevitably involve someone saying "or, you could do it THIS way", I'll throw in my two cents.
I don't like the position of a dash mounted outlet. I used the OEM one on one of my first big trips cross country, where I had a GPS mounted to the accessory rail. The GPS power cable had to be secured to something to keep it from flopping in front of the instrument cluster, and I definitely didn't like having a power cable going from the dash to a handlebar mount. I like the look of dash infill panels, but they also look like they'd complicate maintenance tasks like changing headlight bulbs (something I've had to do multiple times on this bike) or removing the steering head.
There are a lot of handlebar mounted USB outlets available that can provide a much more convenient location than the dash to plug in a handlebar mounted accessory, and that won't involve having to cut holes in your bodywork. Amazon has a bunch of them. Touratech sells (or used to sell) a ridiculously overpriced bracket that you could mount to one of the handlebar clamps and attach an outlet there. I went with that solution, though I made my own brackets out of a piece of 1/8" aluminum:
Rather than using a dedicated USB outlet, I use a standard 12 volt outlet with a USB adapter. My 12 volt outlets are rated for 15 amps and wired with 12 gauge wire, so they can safely be used to also power an air compressor if I have a flat. Having an outlet on the bike that can run everything from a 5 volt GPS pulling milliamps to a compressor running 12 volts at 10 amps can really come in handy.
For stuff mounted to the accessory rail, I wanted the outlets to be as close as possible to the rail to eliminate long power cable runs. I have two USB outlets mounted right above the instrument cluster, so the power cables for things like my GPS or phone only have to be about 6" long.
They sit on a shelf I made from an old ammo can. The shelf bolts to some unused holes in the windshield mount, and the USB outlets screw into the shelf.
I don't like the position of a dash mounted outlet. I used the OEM one on one of my first big trips cross country, where I had a GPS mounted to the accessory rail. The GPS power cable had to be secured to something to keep it from flopping in front of the instrument cluster, and I definitely didn't like having a power cable going from the dash to a handlebar mount. I like the look of dash infill panels, but they also look like they'd complicate maintenance tasks like changing headlight bulbs (something I've had to do multiple times on this bike) or removing the steering head.
There are a lot of handlebar mounted USB outlets available that can provide a much more convenient location than the dash to plug in a handlebar mounted accessory, and that won't involve having to cut holes in your bodywork. Amazon has a bunch of them. Touratech sells (or used to sell) a ridiculously overpriced bracket that you could mount to one of the handlebar clamps and attach an outlet there. I went with that solution, though I made my own brackets out of a piece of 1/8" aluminum:
Rather than using a dedicated USB outlet, I use a standard 12 volt outlet with a USB adapter. My 12 volt outlets are rated for 15 amps and wired with 12 gauge wire, so they can safely be used to also power an air compressor if I have a flat. Having an outlet on the bike that can run everything from a 5 volt GPS pulling milliamps to a compressor running 12 volts at 10 amps can really come in handy.
For stuff mounted to the accessory rail, I wanted the outlets to be as close as possible to the rail to eliminate long power cable runs. I have two USB outlets mounted right above the instrument cluster, so the power cables for things like my GPS or phone only have to be about 6" long.
They sit on a shelf I made from an old ammo can. The shelf bolts to some unused holes in the windshield mount, and the USB outlets screw into the shelf.
The only complication with bulb changing is having to turn the handlebars one way or the other. Steering head maintenance is not impacted. The biggest impact is just doing or modifying any wiring. Have to remove the headlight assembly to do the job, not a huge or complicated task. I switched to the steel when I had to replace a broken stay, and also removed the PO's fake security system light.
Eville Rich
Well-Known Member
Everyone has a solution! Here's mine:
I replaced the stock 12 volt plug with a Powerlet plug that can handle much higher amps. To handle higher amps, I redid the wiring (the OEM plug wires are a very small gauge).
With that outlet, I then got a Powerlet USB adapter. My USB cables can then be run wherever I want them. Most typically to a bar-mount bag where I keep my phone. But there are tons of configurations of adapters or splitters that can be used with that Powerlet outlet and I have near zero concern with exceeding the amp rating. I do have it running to my PDM60, so blowing the stock fuse is not an issue anymore.
This solution may be a bit more than what you need, but it also future-proofs the plug or accessory power demands that might come up down the road. Plus the Powerlet socket system is much more secure than the standard U.S. 12 volt plug.
Clearly, there are as many solutions. Good luck!
Eville Rich
2016 S10
I replaced the stock 12 volt plug with a Powerlet plug that can handle much higher amps. To handle higher amps, I redid the wiring (the OEM plug wires are a very small gauge).
With that outlet, I then got a Powerlet USB adapter. My USB cables can then be run wherever I want them. Most typically to a bar-mount bag where I keep my phone. But there are tons of configurations of adapters or splitters that can be used with that Powerlet outlet and I have near zero concern with exceeding the amp rating. I do have it running to my PDM60, so blowing the stock fuse is not an issue anymore.
This solution may be a bit more than what you need, but it also future-proofs the plug or accessory power demands that might come up down the road. Plus the Powerlet socket system is much more secure than the standard U.S. 12 volt plug.
Clearly, there are as many solutions. Good luck!
Eville Rich
2016 S10
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Fennellg
Well-Known Member
Everyone has gotten to the same place. They just took a different path. Like the creativity. That’s one think I like about motorcycles. They are never right or complete out of the box. You have to solve problems and figure things out.
I used the 12volt socket wiring for my Sat Nav. On the left as you sit on the bike i have an SAE Fly lead which is where i connect my battery tender. It will also run my heated gear and tyre pump. On the right i have a weather proof USB Connector which is tucked out of the way behind the battery cover. I run a second seperatly fused twin ended SAE lead which is tucked away under the rear seat. This will run the pump and heated gear for passenger. I have an SAE lead which plugs into it which will run to my top box which takes an Oxford USB which drops the voltage etc for charging a battery pack and whatever else. I dont like stuff on the bars and cables. I always take a tank bag when touring or longer distance. I can put my phone in the waterproofed map pocket on the top so its handy for photos ect. Waterproof gloves in tank bag. I dont have to get off the bike. Just my 2 cents.