Re: Lowering Links
Rasher said:
How is the ground clearance like this :question:
On the OEM shock with stock settings I found clearance very limited, winding a notch of pre-load on helped, but two-up even with full pre-load the bike was decking out way too easily. I would have thought a 10mm drp of hte forks would make the pegs a lot lower to the ground.
I do suspect however your Penske is stiffer sprung like my Wilburs (I have a 150nm spring) and better damping, I have already noticed that even with full sag (no pre-load on shock adjuster = 32mm static sag) the clearance is much better and I was told the new shock would hold the bike much higher during cornering - and I am also running a bit more sag at the front.
May be tempted to drop the forks a few mm to help the steering a little, although I am currently loving the setup as it is and just taking 2mm of sag out of the rear seems to improve steering noticeably - and feels "perfect" - but you never know what perfect is until you have tried other settings - the only thing I do not want to do is end up with limited clearance as it does not matter how well a bike turns in, if it just turns onto the pegs.
Ground clearance is terrific! ::008::
First off, Rasher, let me state I am rather, shall we say "portly", individual... As such when I had the stock suspension I ran the rear shock spring preload *FULL* stiff all the time - *SOLO* as well as two-up. I never liked the front steering feel of the S-10 from day-one with the forks as delivered, level with the top triple clamp, and I especially didn't like it as I dialed up more front spring preload (more about that in a moment). So I started sliding the forks up in the clamps, both to put more weight on the front wheel and steepen the steering head angle, reduce trail, etc. The more I dropped it the better I liked it, but then I got to the 0.60" (15.24mm) limit I mentioned and decided to err back on the side of safety, going back to 0.50" (12.7mm). I left it there for past year and thousands and thousands of miles since.
Now back to the front preload with the stock suspension... I kept cranking it up, too, just like the rear, but finally reached a point where the front suspension action - for me - got really harsh (even with the compression dampening backed off considerably), and the steering started to go limp again, so I never did get it dialed full stiff on the springs up front. Instead I ended up with the front preload just a bit past mid-way.
With the bike set-up as described I rode 20,000+ miles, and yes, I drug hard parts cornering from time to time both directions, but back in my road racing years I learned how to mitigate that pretty easily and simply rode around it. Once I got adjusted to what the bike needed I rarely drug anything, even when really hustling. However, as the miles piled up I did begin to notice the subtle indications of the stock springs sacking out, and slowly some cornering clearance issues would rear their ugly head... That's one of the reasons I finally decided to spring (no pun intended - well, maybe just a little bit...
) for the new Penske rear shock and Eibach spring and the Penske valved forks with new springs.
To spring the bike for my weight Nick at Stoltec had to spec *WAY* stiffer springs, as it should be. I wanted that, and knew from past experience a *HUGE* percentage of the suspension improvement would come from just getting the spring rates correct F&R. Since I have received my upgraded components and got 'em installed I have been dialing in the adjustments to get it as *perfect* as I can. Over the years I have learned this is where most folks don't get the improvements they expect from buying high-quality stuff - they expect them to be perfect out of the box and don't take the time nor effort to twist a few knobs or screws and properly dial things in - and I have been corresponding with Nick to get this *just right*. In fact, I've just spent a few days and over 500 miles dialing both ends in...
As a result I've got not only way *MORE* cornering clearance than ever - even when my S-10 was new - but also much better comfort, control, precision, compliance, bottoming resistance, useful wheel travel, etc., etc. as well as reduced dive under braking, less squat under acceleration, less suspension compression when leaned over, reduced harshness, etc., etc. In other words, *EVERYTHING* about the bike is *BETTER* now - period - and I actually have *MORE* ground and cornering clearance...
Even with the forks still dropped 0.50" (12.7mm) in the triple clamps!
I just got back from a 300-mile overnight jaunt, and the suspension is so much better it's almost impossible to adequately describe... However, there is one *MAJOR* drawback, especially as it relates to this thread.
The seat height is significantly increased as to what I had gotten used to as the stock suspension had sacked out. Doesn't matter to me. It was still worth it, and the increased control and more composed ride and steering with the better springing and dampening actually makes the bike easier to handle at walking speeds, so seat height isn't that big an issue. I still even run the stock height seat in the high position even with my short, 29" (73.66cm) legs.
Dallara
~
