Looks like time for a disc change...

[RCinNC]

Just as a follow up, I replaced my rear disc and the EBC pads today, with a new OEM disc and OEM pads. The EBC pads have 8,737 miles on them, and they look like new. The disc is a different story, though. I've attached a few photos of the pronounced lip I found on the rear of the old disc.

 

[WJBertrand]

Yeah, my experience with EBC is they are hard on OEM rotors. Work well otherwise


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[bnschroder]

It also looks like the EBC pads are a tad small which contributes to the forming of the ridge. I will definitely stick to OEM pads

 

[RCinNC]

That's my plan too, bnschroder; to stick with the OEM pads, at least when I'm using OEM rotors. I'm definitely not bad mouthing EBC pads, since lots of people have had positive experiences with them. But at the same time, I'd also heard the reports of guys who said the EBC HH pads were really hard on their rotors, and at this moment I fall into that category. If I do the EBC thing again, I'll probably try the organic compound instead of the sintered ones.

 

[Don in Lodi]

It also looks like the EBC pads are a tad small which contributes to the forming of the ridge. I will definitely stick to OEM pads

The OEM leave a ridge too. There is a small pin on the edge of the pad backing plate that will scrape on that ridge before things go catastrophic... provided you hear it when backing out of the garage or somewhere quiet.

 

[Sierra1]

Does anybody know what the pad compound is? More and more manufacturers are using ceramic. RCinNC is having identical results to mine when I deviated from OE ceramic on my truck.

 

[bimota]

RC, I think I posted something about HH pads last year and mentioned that pads are easier and cheaper to replace than discs, so went back to organic compound pads. HH may stop slightly better but on an S10 will not make much of a difference, HH really best served for sport type, low mileage bikes, high acceleration short stopping scenarios. I know that they were the choice only available on short notice, but worth going back to organic.

yer reading the ebc fa319/2hh are damaging the REAR disc's so i,m using EBC 319/2 organic should be better for REAR disc wear

 

[Boris]

I’ve run EBC HH pads for about 14k miles on the front, and there’s no noticeable wear whatsoever . I’ve just checked them whilst typing this. I will run the same front pads when due for a change.

Rear, different story. I put EBC HH pads there as well and fairly soon, probably 4/5k miles later, I noticed the disc chewing up a little, so returned to OE pads.

 

[whisperquiet]

I did an oil/filter change on my ‘15 S10 today and was curious about the wear on my rear disc at 45,000 miles. It measured out at
.183 thousandths and within limits. I rarely use the rear brake hard and am on my second set of OEM Yamaha brake pads which are about 50% worn. Just some FYI.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I did an oil/filter change on my ‘15 S10 today and was curious about the wear on my rear disc at 45,000 miles. It measured out at
.183 thousandths and within limits. I rarely use the rear brake hard and am on my second set of OEM Yamaha brake pads which are about 50% worn. Just some FYI.

Holy crap that is amazing!! Mine was at .195 with 5600 miles on the clock. I can't get my head wrapped around that many miles on a stock rotor. I guess it's time for me to quit practicing hard braking drills every time I ride my bike LOL!!

I'm all about practicing panic "squeeze" braking and calculating stopping distance as much as possible each and every time I swing a leg over my bike. It has saved my life a few times in my 45 years of street riding. I'm saddened by the fact that it's impossible for me to out brake Yamahas Unified Braking System.

Here are my brake specs when I did my 6,000 mile service:

5578 miles
Rear brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, lube sliders
Outside pad upper 4.53mm
Inside pad 4.45mm
Rear pad wear limit .8mm
Rotor thickness 4.97mm
Rear rotor wear limit 4.5mm
Rear rotor runout limit .15mm

Front brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, smooth out pins
RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
LF outside pad 4.47mm
LF inside pad 4.30mm
Front pad wear limit .5mm
Left rotor 4.46mm
Right rotor 4.43mm
Front rotor wear limit 4mm
Front rotor runout limit .10mm

 

[blitz11]

I did new tires and a rear rotor/pad job last Sunday. 34,000 miles. Rotor was just below spec, and it took 2 sets of stock yamaha pads to get there. New rotor, new yamaha pads, and i am good to go. Front rotors show almost NO wear. I think i changed the pads around $17K. Yamaha biases the rear brake pretty highly - i only pull the front brake lever.

 

[whisperquiet]

Holy crap that is amazing!! Mine was at .195 with 5600 miles on the clock. I can't get my head wrapped around that many miles on a stock rotor. I guess it's time for me to quit practicing hard braking drills every time I ride my bike LOL!!

I'm all about practicing panic "squeeze" braking and calculating stopping distance as much as possible each and every time I swing a leg over my bike. It has saved my life a few times in my 45 years of street riding. I'm saddened by the fact that it's impossible for me to out brake Yamahas Unified Braking System.

Here are my brake specs when I did my 6,000 mile service:

5578 miles
Rear brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, lube sliders
Outside pad upper 4.53mm
Inside pad 4.45mm
Rear pad wear limit .8mm
Rotor thickness 4.97mm
Rear rotor wear limit 4.5mm
Rear rotor runout limit .15mm

Front brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, smooth out pins
RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
LF outside pad 4.47mm
LF inside pad 4.30mm
Front pad wear limit .5mm
Left rotor 4.46mm
Right rotor 4.43mm
Front rotor wear limit 4mm
Front rotor runout limit .10mm

I am still good with threshold braking on all three of my bikes.....been riding 50 years this summer and taught emergency vehicle driving for six years. I have minimal traffic where I ride most of the time which allows for a lot of coast down instead of using the brakes. I do try to cycle the ABS at least every 2-3 rides.

The front pads on my ‘15 are original and more than 50% good.

 

[PaydayGabe]

Will be picking up new skins (705's) mounted and Balanced for the shop today. What are/is everyone using for Spline lube?? Recommendations please. Thanks,, G.

 

[blitz11]

Honda Moly 60. I have a few tubes left over from my BMW airhead days. splines were perfect at 34K miles with the honda moly 60. (BMW splines were kept in check by that stuff, too. )

 

[Checkswrecks]

Search is your friend. . ..

Drive Shaft - Questions

Greasing the driveshaft 1 time per year only takes an extra 10-15 minutes at most if you have the rear wheel off. My stance is why wouldn't you do it? Anyone who has dealt with older BMW driveshafts wearing out will know the costs of not greasing splines. Swingarm/ linkage bearings need to...

www.yamahasupertenere.com

And as in most forums it's annoying for the mods to double post questions like this in multiple threads.

 

[PaydayGabe]

Honda Moly 60. I have a few tubes left over from my BMW airhead days. splines were perfect at 34K miles with the honda moly 60. (BMW splines were kept in check by that stuff, too. )

Thanks for your reply.
The parts gurus at the stealership say it's no longer available.
Doesn't surprise me,, last tube I purchased was several years ago and haven't seen it since.
Said to use Anti Seize...
Asked the technician,, same answer... Sooo, yeah.

 

[Jazzer]

You guys can ban me for asking this probably silly question ‍. Is your micrometer accurate?