Lifting fuel tank

[RhodeTrip]

When trying to access the throttle bodies to balance; do you remove the gas tank of tilt is back?
Thanks,
Jim

 

[Don in Lodi]

When trying to access the throttle bodies to balance; do you remove the gas tank of tilt is back?
Thanks,
Jim

Tilt. You still need fuel pressure. The two vent lines that run down the left side of the bike need to be loosened from their clamps so you don't mess things up. When lowering the tank, keep track of those vent lines so they don't kink. It's also nice to have replacement vac caps. The oem tend to age fast.

 

[RhodeTrip]

Thanks, I got it. Wouldn’t have been as bad if it weren’t for having to remove the engine guards.
Jim

 

[fredz43]

Thanks, I got it. Wouldn’t have been as bad if it weren’t for having to remove the engine guards.
Jim

I posted this video in another thread today. See if gives you any help on how to lift the tank without removing engine guards. I haven't had to remove them with either SW Motech guards or Altrider guards.

https://youtu.be/VgcnOD7K_9k

 

[toypro1]

Thanks for posting Fred

 

[RhodeTrip]

I posted this video in another thread today. See if gives you any help on how to lift the tank without removing engine guards. I haven't had to remove them with either SW Motech guards or Altrider guards.

https://youtu.be/VgcnOD7K_9k

Great idea, wish I had seen this and changed the tank bolts to hex heads; next time I’ll be ready. The throttle control is much less twitchy; I backed the right side out 90 degrees then adjusted the left to the harmonizer as Don In Lodi posted.
Thanks again to both of you for giving these tips.
Jim

 

[SilverBullet]

Great idea, wish I had seen this and changed the tank bolts to hex heads; next time I’ll be ready...

Until you do (or instead of) just remove the two 10mm head bolts on each side of the single allen head bolt instead. If you have a ratcheting 10mm open end wrench will take all of an extra 20 seconds.

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[Don in Lodi]

Until you do (or instead of) just remove the two 10mm head bolts on each side of the single allen head bolt instead. If you have a ratcheting 10mm open end wrench will take all of an extra 20 seconds.

Twice as many screws to line up though.

 

[fredz43]

Until you do (or instead of) just remove the two 10mm head bolts on each side of the single allen head bolt instead. If you have a ratcheting 10mm open end wrench will take all of an extra 20 seconds.

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That way you would be removing and replacing 4 10 mm hex head bolts instead of 2 each time you do that. I have never seen a ratcheting open end wrench. Ratcheting box end works well for me.

 

[SilverBullet]

That way you would be removing and replacing 4 10 mm hex head bolts instead of 2 each time you do that. I have never seen a ratcheting open end wrench. Ratcheting box end works well for me.

Mistype, ratcheting box end is what I meant.

True one extra bolt to undo. That's why I said an extra 20 seconds. But to replace the allen head you will need to remove 6 extra bolts to do it. So 1st time you remove 7 bolts, I remove 2, 2nd time you'll cumulatively have removed 8 bolts and myself 4 bolts, 3rd time you 9 and myself 6, etc. etc. Doing this every 25K miles I would guess 95% of Tenere owners would never reach payback. If I ever have that cover off while lifting the tank I'll replace it though same the other side.

However the time we have just spent discussing this has probably exceeded total time saved anyway. Lol

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[fredz43]

Mistype, ratcheting box end is what I meant.

True one extra bolt to undo. That's why I said an extra 20 seconds. But to replace the allen head you will need to remove 6 extra bolts to do it. So 1st time you remove 7 bolts, I remove 2, 2nd time you'll cumulatively have removed 8 bolts and myself 4 bolts, 3rd time you 9 and myself 6, etc. etc. Doing this every 25K miles I would guess 95% of Tenere owners would never reach payback. If I ever have that cover off while lifting the tank I'll replace it though same the other side.

However the time we have just spent discussing this has probably exceeded total time saved anyway. Lol
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No, the first time you just remove 2 bolts, the allens and replace them with hex head. So, it is just 2 bolts each time, including the first time. Recommended every 4,000 miles in the maintenance schedule, but most of us don't do that. Whatever works for you, it is your bike.

 

[SilverBullet]

No, the first time you just remove 2 bolts, the allens and replace them with hex head. So, it is just 2 bolts each time, including the first time. Recommended every 4,000 miles in the maintenance schedule, but most of us don't do that. Whatever works for you, it is your bike.

Ok final post from me beating this horse.

I thought the sole reason to replace the left side allen bolt is so you can remove it without taking off the side cover? So to replace the allen bolt you will need to first remove the side cover which is 6 extra bolts.

Doing a TBS every 4K miles is crazy unless there are lemons out there requiring this. I did my first one at 34K only because I had everything off already. Bike started cold, hot, idled and ran absolutely perfect before TBS and no change whatsoever afterwards. No out of balance vibrations for me but maybe I'm immune. I don't feel any clutch vibrations either on my 2013 and no plans to update the basket either. ECU reflash by Anthony and got rid of all that throttle free play (biggest single improvement) and fueling is fine for me. I just keep changing fluids, tires, adding gas and ride. My favorite bike to ride by far in my life and I've owned many dozen over the last 45 years of riding. The extended maintenance intervals and lack of repairs/problems thus far has greatly added to that factor. I'm not worried about this bike failing like others and often ride solo in the dirt far away from any assistance or other vehicles.

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[ace50]

I have never seen a ratcheting open end wrench. Ratcheting box end works well for me.

 

[magic]

Not to beat on this horse anymore, but there is an easier way to do a TBS. I lift up the gas tank from the rear by removing the seat and seat height adjuster, then remove the pivot bolt with a 12mm socket and the 4 bolts that hold the rear gas tank pivot in place with a 10mm socket. Swing the pivot out of the way with the cable attached. I then block up the tank with a 2x4 on edge between the frame and the gas tank section where the pivot bolt came from. This gives me just enough room to get at the vacuum hoses and cap. I then use a small driver with a flexible shaft (Harbor Freight) to adjust the screws. I find this to be a little easier especially with a full gas tank.

 

[fredz43]

Ok final post from me beating this horse.

I thought the sole reason to replace the left side allen bolt is so you can remove it without taking off the side cover? So to replace the allen bolt you will need to first remove the side cover which is 6 extra bolts.

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One more beat on that horse. ;D If you saw my video, I never remove the left side cover, just the 3 rear screws that then provide enough room to reach in with a ratcheting 10 mm box head to remove the left side hex head bolt. I also only removed those 3 the first time when I removed the allen head screws. Just use a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 5 mm allen head socket. In over 50,000 miles on 2 S10's I have only removed that left side cover when I had it painted on my 14ES. Are you able to get those 4 hex head bolts out (2 on each side?) without removing any of the fairing screws? How are you able to lift the tank by just removing 2 bolts? I guess I'm cornfused, which doesn't take much.

 

[tomatocity]

Speaking of Vacuum Caps... what size are they? I want to stock up on a half dozen. TIA

 

[tomatocity]

One more beat on that horse. ;D If you saw my video, I never remove the left side cover, just the 3 rear screws that then provide enough room to reach in with a ratcheting 10 mm box head to remove the left side hex head bolt. I also only removed those 3 the first time when I removed the allen head screws. Just use a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 5 mm allen head socket. In over 50,000 miles on 2 S10's I have only removed that left side cover when I had it painted on my 14ES. Are you able to get those 4 hex head bolts out (2 on each side?) without removing any of the fairing screws? How are you able to lift the tank by just removing 2 bolts? I guess I'm cornfused, which doesn't take much.

Thanks Fred. Early on with my 2012 I removed the Left Side Cover and it took at least a hour to reinstall them Then I read the thread about replacing the tank bolts with a Hex Head Bolt. Job well done! East Peasy