Jesse owners, lets compare mounting hardware

PowersUSA

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I received my new Jesse luggage last week and was surprised to see they redesigned the upper mounting hardware.
From what I gather the change is intended to improve single handed operation.

Here's a video showing operation of the new hardware on the right hand (non-exhaust) side. Everything works as expected.
https://youtu.be/tKQEmj_2hhQ

Here's a video showing the operation of the new hardware on the left hand (exhaust) side.
The top leading edge of the delrin block has interference with the top rack loop and takes quite a bit of force to mount and remove.
The delrin block in intended to be held in place with some provided adhesive.
With the force required to remove the box the delrin block pulls away from the box.
In the video I have the retention plate snugged up to the delrin block to keep it from pulling away from the box.
https://youtu.be/EEYcbKDGIBo

The design flaw with the delrin block is so obvious it makes me wonder if anyone even tested the design?
Due to the offset of the upper rack loop (if the lower loop is at 6 o'clock the upper root is at 2 o'clock as viewed from the back of the bike)
the delrin block needs to rise as the box is rotated counter-clockwise off the bike (moving from 2 o'clock back "up" to 12 o'clock)
and the shape of the block does not afford this.

The design flaws don't stop at the delrin block.
The blunt end of the retention block interferes with the exhaust cover meaning the box can only be mounted within a small "all the way forward" range.







Also, mounting the front of the exhaust side rack required flipping pillion foot peg pivot pin so that the cotter-pin is on top.





I'm looking to provide some constructive feedback to Jesse and it would help if I had detailed "profile" pictures of the "older" mounting hardware.

Thanks in advance.
 

Don in Lodi

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The first vid has me saying I wonder if they'll do a retrofit for me. The second vid has me stumped, wow. If the plastic block is left loose from the case, will it slide between the hoop rails easier? A bit of sanding should clear that up. There isn't a left and right for those? The billet retention block, wow. I carved back my exhaust cover a couple months back, I have no recollection of how close things were, except they did not interfere with each other. That pretty fluting down two sides, if they did a third side, would it clear the shield? Everything on the older system is lower profile. The plastic block is just a flat rectangle, the same thickness as the space between your hoops and the box. The alloy retention block looks to be about half the thickness of yours. When cam'd to the lock position the alloy blocks extend just shy of the width of the hoops, exactly the same as the plastic blocks, prolly cut on the same template. Flipping the pin, I can see where mine would interfere if I'd used a thicker spacer there. Right from the get-go I pulled my racks in every last mm available, no grab handles any more, so my shim at that pin is thinner than yours. That left hand rack just kissed the exhaust cover leaving a rub mark. Up at the top front of the racks, they'll interfere with the front pair of lashing points in the plastic seat base if you go too far in, I can just slide a feeler gauge through the air gap. Others have carved away those lash points.
You know, on second thought, my crank handle for tightening things down is probably a better design too. After tightening, you flip the handle 180 and the very most it can unwind itself is 3/4 of a turn before it runs into the box edge. I wonder if that's how Trevor lost one of his boxes, he had one of the new designs, hmm.
Can you ask them if they have any of the older retention systems still on a shelf? Prolly not, except for those with the older systems needing parts...

 

low drag

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I have a set of Jesse's that came on the bike when I bought it.
I have had the same problem with the exhaust side. I have carved up that block as well, now I can't get it glued back in place.

I put the box on well forward and rotate the aluminum retention block into place and work the box towards the rear as far as I can, then tighten the mounting mechanism.

I have to get the boxes as far to the rear as I can to allow me to have the balls of my feet on the pegs without my lower leg bumping them when I stand.
 

PowersUSA

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Don in Lodi said:
If the plastic block is left loose from the case, will it slide between the hoop rails easier? A bit of sanding should clear that up. There isn't a left and right for those?
With the block very loose I believe I can angle it through, but that is sloppy and far from water tight (the bags are NOT water tight to begin with , but that's a whole other can of worms). Yes, 30 seconds on a drum sander and I'm confident I can have a proper fitting block. Both the left and right blocks are the same.

Don in Lodi said:

That left hand rack just kissed the exhaust cover leaving a rub mark.
My rack is very tight to the exhaust cover with all the standard spacers in. The exhaust covers can flex down a bit (but not enough the clear the retention block, I scratch the cover trying) and I plan to use a clear cabinet door stop as a spacer between the cover and rack. There's obviously no space to pull the left hand rack in tighter with the stock exhaust, which is something they should call out on their product page.



Don in Lodi said:

You know, on second thought, my crank handle for tightening things down is probably a better design too. After tightening, you flip the handle 180 and the very most it can unwind itself is 3/4 of a turn before it runs into the box edge. I wonder if that's how Trevor lost one of his boxes, he had one of the new designs, hmm.
I neglected to show the "wrench" that comes with the boxes. Including a hook-n-loop patch for mounting it in a box. I felt the boxes where securely mounted without wrenching them down tighter. In fact the the wrench is probably best used to loosen the knob.


 

Pterodactyl

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Have you contacted Al Jesse? The Jesses on my S10 are my 5th set; I still have 4. I've always found them to be high quality and Al to be easy to work with.
 

PowersUSA

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Pterodactyl said:
Have you contacted Al Jesse? The Jesses on my S10 are my 5th set; I still have 4. I've always found them to be high quality and Al to be easy to work with.
Cool, care to share some picture of the mounting hardware? Ideally with the the left box mounted all the way reward showing that the retention block clears the exhaust shield.

The frustrating part for me is I thought I was purchasing a well sorted solution only to be put in the seat of design validation engineer. An afternoon with any modern Solid Modelling package would have shown the rack interference before any parts were ever created. I've already spent more time then that making sure I had everything aligned properly etc.

I'll quote myself on this ---> I'm looking to provide some constructive feedback to Jesse and it would help if I had detailed "profile" pictures of the "older" mounting hardware.

Thanks in advance
 

PowersUSA

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Spoke on the phone with Jesse customer support this morning and sent them an email with all the same videos and pictures I posted here. Apparently I'm the first customer to raise any issue with the new crank handle assembly. Hopefully they acknowledge the issues and refine the design so that future customers can have a smooth "just mount and ride" experience.
 

low drag

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PowersUSA said:
Spoke on the phone with Jesse customer support this morning and sent them an email with all the same videos and pictures I posted here. Apparently I'm the first customer to raise any issue with the new crank handle assembly. Hopefully they acknowledge the issues and refine the design so that future customers can have a smooth "just mount and ride" experience.
I think I have the old style and there's no mount and ride here. I have to fuss with the exhaust side to the point I have to be careful I don't strip the mounting bolt
 

PowersUSA

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Just spoke with Britt from Jesse. He was very appreciative of the detailed pictures and videos. I'm going to be working with him over the next couple of days to resolve the fitment issues. Hopefully when its all said and done future buyers will have boxes that are easy to install and operate on both sides of their bikes. :)
 

PowersUSA

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PowersUSA said:
Due to the offset of the upper rack loop (if the lower loop is at 6 o'clock the upper root is at 2 o'clock as viewed from the back of the bike)
the delrin block needs to rise as the box is rotated counter-clockwise off the bike (moving from 2 o'clock back "up" to 12 o'clock)
and the shape of the block does not afford this.
A to scale Illustration of the above description:
 

OldRider

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Everytime I look at the aluminum securing block in the photo, it just looks to me like it is on backwards. Why would there be a beveled part on the outside instead of on the inside against the round rails? I'm sure you have it on there according to the directions, but it just doesn't look right. IMHO.
 

Don in Lodi

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OldRider said:
Everytime I look at the aluminum securing block in the photo, it just looks to me like it is on backwards. Why would there be a beveled part on the outside instead of on the inside against the round rails? I'm sure you have it on there according to the directions, but it just doesn't look right. IMHO.
If the plastic block didn't fill the space between the rails, using the flutes on the aluminum would be a nice low profile attachment.
 

PowersUSA

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Don in Lodi said:
If the plastic block didn't fill the space between the rails, using the flutes on the aluminum would be a nice low profile attachment.
The center of the delrin block that goes through the rungs of the loop houses a spring. I'll post detailed pictures tonight.
 

OldRider

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Don in Lodi said:
If the plastic block didn't fill the space between the rails, using the flutes on the aluminum would be a nice low profile attachment.
I see what you mean. I just looked at the older mounts I have and the rubber block is thinner than the bag rails.

Looks like Jesse may have tried to re-invent the wheel.
 

PowersUSA

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I found a picture on my phone that shows the retention block fully engaged in the upper loop (the rack is not mounted to the bike in this picture). Visible at the center of the retention block is the back side of the threaded insert. It's this threaded insert that necessitates the thickness of the retention block. The ends of the retention block do not need to be as thick though (the tear-out strength would be fine at half the thickness) and that's where the interference with the exhaust shield occurs. I'll be chamfering the bottom edge this weekend as an in the field prototype.

 

Don in Lodi

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PowersUSA said:
I found a picture on my phone that shows the retention block fully engaged in the upper loop (the rack is not mounted to the bike in this picture). Visible at the center of the retention block is the back side of the threaded insert. It's this threaded insert that necessitates the thickness of the retention block. The ends of the retention block do not need to be as thick though (the tear-out strength would be fine at half the thickness) and that's where the interference with the exhaust shield occurs. I'll be chamfering the bottom edge this weekend as an in the field prototype.

They sure went for rock solid on the redesign, didn't they.
 

Pterodactyl

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Here are some pictures of my Jesse mounting hardware. You can see the difference from yours. The mounting clamp has a groove in either end that accomodates the bar of the mounting rack. The clamp also has a cam like surface that assists in the mounting an unmounting process:

Upper View:


Lower View


View of the lower composite hook showing that the bag is mounted nearly as far back as it will go:
 

Don in Lodi

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Pterodactyl said:
Here are some pictures of my Jesse mounting hardware. You can see the difference from yours. The mounting clamp has a groove in either end that accomodates the bar of the mounting rack. The clamp also has a cam like surface that assists in the mounting an unmounting process:

Lower View
Mine doesn't have the grooves for gripping the bars, they're just flat. The cam is there between the bars. That's a real good shot of where the lower profile lock bar clears the exhaust cover.
 

PowersUSA

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Pterodactyl said:
Here are some pictures of my Jesse mounting hardware. You can see the difference from yours. The mounting clamp has a groove in either end that accomodates the bar of the mounting rack. The clamp also has a cam like surface that assists in the mounting an unmounting process:

Upper View:


Lower View


View of the lower composite hook showing that the bag is mounted nearly as far back as it will go:
Thanks a bunch for the pictures. Especially for the "money shot" showing the retention block clearing the exhaust shield with the box mounted near the back of the rack.
 
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