IS ABS Module is a weak spot of this bike

[Jlq1969]

what is the guidance for pad change then

rob

Open the bleeders, and then push the pistons….so you avoid that the dirty liquid (in the caliper), goes up to the abs module…

 

[bimota]

Open the bleeders, and then push the pistons….so you avoid that the dirty liquid (in the caliper), goes up to the abs module…

will that not let air in tho

 

[Jlq1969]

will that not let air in tho

EDIT:…..Open the bleeders, and then push the pistons and before finishing pushing the pistons, “close the bleeders”…so you avoid dirty fluid (in the caliper), going up to the abs module…

 

[Tenman]

I didn’t think brake fluid would circulate.

 

[bimota]

I didn’t think brake fluid would circulate.

To be honest i,ve always just pushed the pistons back to get new pads in never had a issue but was unawre of this

rob

 

[RCinNC]

I'm another offender. Changing brake pads is one of those maintenance tasks that seem so basic that you don't bother to look it up in a service manual. It's something I've never done in the almost 100,000 miles I've had the S10, but right there on page 4-66 of the service manual it says to loosen the bleed screw before you push the pistons back into the caliper. I've started doing it since I first read about it on this forum, though I suspect if I did any damage, it would have appeared by now.

As far as pushing dirt from where it settles in the caliper back into the ABS module when you compress the piston, I'm not 100 percent convinced that's the reason for opening the bleed screw. It's gotta be around 18" from the rear caliper to the ABS module. When you compress a piston during a pad change, how far are you pushing it? Maybe a quarter inch max? Would that really be enough force in a closed system to push debris out of the caliper and make it travel those 18" all the way to the ABS module? The fluid itself barely moves in a hydraulic brake system; that's kind of the point of a hydraulic system. Pressing a piston into the caliper will cause an increase in system pressure, and it maybe causes some cavitation inside the caliper, but moving dirt through a fairly viscous fluid (compared to water, anyway) against gravity all the way up to the module, when the fluid itself barely moves? I dunno, I'd like to see a practical demonstration of that before I agreed that was the reason for doing this.

 

[Steve in ATL]

Again: my question is “Is the theory that pushing fluid backward through the ABS motor that it *damages* the ABS unit, or is it simply contaminated and in need of flushing rather than replacement?”

 

[Cycledude]

I have never opened a bleeder in order to push the piston back in but now that it has been mentioned here I will probably start doing that. One thing I always do before pushing the pistons in is spray them with brake cleaner and clean them with a toothbrush to help prevent pushing dirt into the caliper.

 

[bimota]

Again: my question is “Is the theory that pushing fluid backward through the ABS motor that it *damages* the ABS unit, or is it simply contaminated and in need of flushing rather than replacement?”

i,d say no, i would bleed the brakes a few more times and keep cycling the pump it should come good

 

[WJBertrand]

Regardless of the contamination question, opening the bleeder makes the pistons a lot easier to push back in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gapmtn1]

will that not let air in tho

I put speedbleeders on everything. Solves that problem.

 

[MD-ClarkHicks]

My ABS pump failed on the rear brake circuit, I don't think it's coincidence, although the garage tell me it is, when it was in for a new back tyre and new rear pads, I am sure he pushed the pads back without opening the bleed valve, hence it popped a seal inside the ABS module.
I had no issues until then.
I have made a bypass which has been fine, I have got through one MOT, but as others have reported the ABS light will come on under hard braking which in the UK would be a MOT fail.
Should say 2011 Gen1 with 71,000 miles.
So having found somewhere in the UK who will service and rebuild the pump with new seals for £330, I was going to get it done.
But what a pain to get to the bolts that hold the pump in place, I have the service manual, but how have others got to the bolt heads to remove the pump itself?
Thanks for any pointers.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Sorry to hear yours failed.
But at 13 years and 71,000 miles things do break.

 

[Fennellg]

Flush it & cycle it once in a while and hope for the best. These things can be repaired but at some point the bike jumps the shark. Once confidence / trust in a bike or car is lost game over. The owner will change horses. Made a good living when that moment arrived.

 

[MD-ClarkHicks]

Sorry to hear yours failed.
But at 13 years and 71,000 miles things do break.

Yes, I agree, I was actually saying i don't believe it is a weak point, as if the garage had opened the bleed before pushing the cylinder back in after changing the rear pads, i think it would still be going strong.

 

[patrickg450]

I still have my old one, maybe I should sell it