Install Help - San Diego / SoCal

[Kabish]

Fellow S10 Riders!!! Not sure if this is allowed or not as I could not find any rules against it... This form is very well moderated so I'm sure someone will put me in my place quickly if its not allowed.. lol

I just purchased https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/denali-d4-20-trioptic-led-light-kit-with-datadim-technology along with https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/denali-20-datadim-dual-intensity-controller and ran into some confidence issues during the install on my 2015 and was wondering if someone local could give a guy a hand. I'm more than willing to compensate you for your time as I was planning to go to the dealer but I don't learn anything from them and I will have feature electric projects down the road. I'm trying to wire it so it runs at 50% power with low beam and 100% power with high beam which is what the dual intensity controller provides. I don't necessarily need/want a switch on my bars although they do provide one.

Where I ran into issues was tapping the wires needed for the install with the provided posi tap. I need to be able to tap into a trigger wire (which I think I found) and, more importantly, the high beam wire. I took off all the plastics, got all the wires routed and the lights wired/mounted but then realized it was more than just hooking up the +/- posts. So after fighting trying to get the terminals screwed back in to the battery (why isn't that nut welded in place!!) I gave up and pulled the install out and buttoned her back up with defeat in my heart..... :'(

When doing research I noticed a lot of people using PDM60 blocks on their bike which makes wiring new devices much easier. I watched a video from Craig Ripley's youtube channel (believe he's a member on here) and he was showing a pretty clean way of installing the PDM60 using a MT90 connector and a OEM plug apparently for PIAA lights. I've not purchased the PDU yet but I am highly debating it so it might be two things I'll need a little help with

Thanks ::008::

 

[WJBertrand]

I think dmulk on this list may be near you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Checkswrecks]

Asking for help from other members? Go for it!
Good luck with the install.

 

[Kabish]

Thanks! If nothing else I'll take it to the dealer, I'd just rater learn a little vs just throwing my money at a stealership. I might try and build my confidence back up and attempt the install again, guess I'll order that PDM60 to make installs easier.. I'm still wanting to put a "dash" cam on the bike so the PDM would make that much easier down the road. Just so very little room under that cover!

 

[Ron Earp]

Dang those are high for what are basically $40 lights. I get they have a switch but that can be had for $20 too.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-light-pods/page/2/

I have an LED light bar under the headlight and two LED floodlights mounted on the crash bars. I wired these three together through the the Yamaha Aux plug/fuse and use a panel mounted switch to turn on and off. I do not have them tapped into the high beam at all since I want to be able to turn them on and off as I please. they stay on all the time as I'm one of those "more lights save lives" guys. I'd give the dual intensity controller a miss, but that's just me.

 

[Kabish]

Dang those are high for what are basically $40 lights. I get they have a switch but that can be had for $20 too.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-light-pods/page/2/

I have an LED light bar under the headlight and two LED floodlights mounted on the crash bars. I wired these three together through the the Yamaha Aux plug/fuse and use a panel mounted switch to turn on and off. I do not have them tapped into the high beam at all since I want to be able to turn them on and off as I please. they stay on all the time as I'm one of those "more lights save lives" guys. I'd give the dual intensity controller a miss, but that's just me.

Ya they were a bit on the expensive side but they also come with lifetime warranties. I've learned that in the moto world spending a little more money can lead to a better experience down the road. I thought about buying some of the "cheep" lights but just wanted something that I knew was going to be solid and not give me any issues. I expect to keep my lights on 24x7 as well as I also believe in the lights having a big impact on safety. I honestly don't drive much at night, but the hand full of times I have the lighting in corners is god awful. So I wanted to be able to run the AUX lights without pushing out 9k lums and blinding everyone 2 miles down the street Adding a light bar is a good idea, and I still might end up doing that down the road. I've always like the look that gives, I think I saw a pic of your bike when I was researching on the forums.

 

[AVGeek]

For a dash cam I used the INNOV system. Comes with front and rear cameras, as well as a small DVR that records from both cameras simultaneously. I t also has a GPS receiver so it will geotag your videos, and indicate speed.

It looks like your high-low controller should have 3 wires (I tried looking for more info online, and didn't really find anything). My guess is one is a tap to the high beam, then possibly a 12V input, and one wire out to the positive side of the light?

If your lights frames are not grounded to the negative side of the electrical connector, you can also look at the Skene controller. This is what I used on the spots I had up on my handlebars. Depending on the switch you use, this can give you 3 different light levels, as well as go to 100% when engaging the high beams. I opted for the Alert feature, so that double tapping the horn button started the lights flashing for extra visibility.

 

[Kabish]

Ya I really like the INNOV systems, I've been looking at one of those for quite some time. They actually just came out with a new version that is water proof and allows you to use your phone to see the video, but you do lose the back camera..

The controller for these lights is actually plug and play. I just pull the current controller off the wire harness and snap this one in its place. So techincally you could have the entire thing wired up and could just pop off the old and pop on the new. You can actually do that with the lights as well, they are also detachable which is pretty cool. I do like that alert function... That is another electric project I want to do soon as well, getting another horn.

I have a full understanding of what needs done and why, I just don't have the confidence to tap wires or find the high beam lol One time my girlfriend (now my wife) had her alternator go bad.. I wanted to be the manly man so I said "I CAN FIX THAT!!!".. Took a while to get it out but I FINALLY did it, took it to Auto Zone for them to test and then get a new one.. Guy looks at me weird, we can't test these... I question him cause I knew they could, "sir this is a water pump, not an alternator......" ::010:: ::010:: "you do realize this is one of the hardest things to replace on that model of car"......

I lost my manly card that day.....

 

[Don in Lodi]

Dang those are high for what are basically $40 lights. I get they have a switch but that can be had for $20 too.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-light-pods/page/2/

I have an LED light bar under the headlight and two LED floodlights mounted on the crash bars. I wired these three together through the the Yamaha Aux plug/fuse and use a panel mounted switch to turn on and off. I do not have them tapped into the high beam at all since I want to be able to turn them on and off as I please. they stay on all the time as I'm one of those "more lights save lives" guys. I'd give the dual intensity controller a miss, but that's just me.

So you run your superbrightleds at a 100% all the time? Isn't that a little inconsiderate for oncoming drivers?

 

[tubebender]

I can give you a hand - check your PMs.

 

[Don in Lodi]

::008::