thughes317
Well-Known Member
That's the linked brakes....my complaint is that the rear brake is softer when used alone, it seems better stronger more responsive when the front is used 1st.
That's the linked brakes....my complaint is that the rear brake is softer when used alone, it seems better stronger more responsive when the front is used 1st.
That's because when you activate the back brake first, all you're getting is back brake. And 600+ pounds with just a single disc. When you apply the front brakes, you actually get the fronts and a little back. For slow tight maneuvers, (bar-lock turns) being able to have back brake only is greatness. The ST1300 was sketchy doing bar-lock turns.my complaint is that the rear brake is softer when used alone, it seems better stronger more responsive when the front is used 1st.
I think the EBC pads do provide more initial bite but you then have to release pressure on the lever as the pads heat up. Not ideal mid corner. I have found that SBS pads provide a much more linear bite so that the same pressure can be maintained throughout the whole braking phaseI found the EBC HH pads give better initial bite and a more linear response to lever pressure than the OEM pads. Some say they’ll wear the rotor faster but the OEM front pads are also HH.
I've never noticed that issue, and I do a lot of trail braking in the twisty bits. I find their response quite linear compared to the OEM pads which feel somewhat "wooden" to me.I think the EBC pads do provide more initial bite but you then have to release pressure on the lever as the pads heat up. Not ideal mid corner. I have found that SBS pads provide a much more linear bite so that the same pressure can be maintained throughout the whole braking phase
Right! This is the way it came when I bought it. EBC on one caliper and the other pads on the other front caliper.W . . . T . . . F? I'll ass-sume that you're not the one that installed them. Both calipers have EBC/OE combo, or one caliper had EBC and the other OE? Somebody else's idea for increasing braking performance? Or a dealership used only what they had on hand?
What kind of a problem are you having with the neck bearings?Fresh EBC pads have been ordered for both front calipers. Wish me luck on getting the triple clamp off today
I've never serviced calipers before; what does that entail? Looks like new calipers are $342 each, but I see there are four Seal Kits (#7, #9, #19 & #21) ) at $37 each.Hiya Mad Matt, given you gave two different sets of pads on the front wheel and one calliper is dirtier than the other, I would seriously consider overhauling your callipers. Potentially a previous owner has gone to replace the pads and found one side heavily worn and the other barely worn at all. Without investigating further they have just replaced the worn set. You’re in this deep, the next step is not as hard as many people make out. Keep things scrupulously clean and I was taught to clean brake parts with methylated spirits years ago and it’s never failed me yet.
I wouldn’t stress too much over that, unless one piston is really struggling to move. With the caliper off of the disk, the pressure against the pistons is extremely unlikely to be even, every bike I’ve had the pistons move unevenly when off the bike.OK, I just checked the calipers. When I pulled the pads and applied the brakes, not all of the pistons pushed out evenly. Basically, one piston per side moved while the other piston stayed in the same location.
Like Boris said, this is normal. With no resistance the pistons will not all move the same. Stick a wrench or something flat between the pads and as soon as the pads push on the wrench from both sides all the pistons should be out the same.OK, I just checked the calipers. When I pulled the pads and applied the brakes, not all of the pistons pushed out evenly. Basically, one piston per side moved while the other piston stayed in the same location.
Edit: Great video walking you through the rebuild process.