HOW TO: Quick and Easy ABS Disable Switch

moespeeds

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There's not allot of info out there on how to do this, so I figured I'd post it up with some clear pictures.

I know there is allot of controversy here about whether or not you need to shut the ABS off. I don't like it off road, but I also like my Martini's extra dirty. It's personal preference, so please spare me the "You'll shoot your eye out" or "NASA designed this system so it must be perfect" warnings. I know you can disable ABS on the 2014, but I don't feel like putting it on the center stand and doing a rain dance while my friends ride off into the sunset.

Ok so I started this off breaking the 20a ABS SOL fuse, but that gives you a non-linear throttle curve, same with breaking the 7.5a ABS fuse. The way to do it is to break the 30a ABS solenoid ciruit.

I used a 25a switch from NAPA with a waterproof boot (NAPA Part# TG6139 & TG6571). They sell a great switch, it's very robust.
For wire, I used 14-2 Outdoor Lighting wire from Home Depot. I've used this stuff for wiring in all kinds of things, from motorcycles to race cars. The casing is thick, and it comes in 18, 16, and 14 AWG. For 30 amps in this application, we use 14.
I use weathertight, heat shrink, crimp connectors. Some people like to solder, I'm too lazy.

First remove the 30a ABS Solenoid fuse. The one we want to break is the one on the bottom. The top fuse is just a spare.



Next we want to install a 30a inline fuse on the hot side of the circuit, with blade connectors to plug in where the fuse used to be. The blue blade connectors are 14 ga, and the proper size for this application. When you are all done, it should look like this.



Now we run the wire up to our switch, mounted wherever you want, I put mine in the dash. A big fat glob of black RTV works great to keep water and dirt out of the bottom of the switch, and keeps the blade connectors on there until you want to pull them out.



Now plug the the blade connectors on the other end into the fuse block where we pulled the lower fuse. The switch essentially "breaks" the circuit, same as removing the fuse. Use a 30a fuse in our fuse holder, and you are all set.



Switch mounted and ready to go off road!



When you flip the switch to OFF, it will immediately disable the ABS. The SPEEDO and TCS will continure to work normally. To turn the ABS back on, flip the switch to ON, and cycle the key.

Do this mod at your own risk, and I will not be responsible if you smash yourself into the pavement because your ABS was off.
 

PaydayGabe

I think, therefore I am. . .
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Nov 14, 2017
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Las Vegas Nv.
Afternoon, , and thanks Moespeeds.
Did your switch mod today. It was super easy, inexpensive and I like fiddling with my stuff. Followed your instructions and it works great. Great info/ mod::012::.
PaydayGabe in Vegas :p
 

nelly5

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May 3, 2017
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Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi all,

I followed the instructions on this post for the ABS switch. It all works well, but I have one concern. I have a lighted switch, and with the key in the off position, the switch can still light up. Does this sound normal, or am I doing something wrong?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
 

GearheadGrrrl

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Mar 12, 2015
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Minnesota, USA
Why?

I can understand why folks want to be able to lock up the rear wheel to put the bike into a slide. On my '13, just push down on the brake pedal alone and the rear ABS is disabled, ABS only works when you use the linked brakes via the handlebar lever. The only "advantage" to disabling both front and rear ABS is that you can lock up the front brake... And you don't want to do that and go down before you can release the brake!
 

Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
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GearheadGrrrl said:
On my '13, just push down on the brake pedal alone and the rear ABS is disabled,
What??
Mine does not work like that, and I have tried.
When I first got the bike, I testet the rear ABS, and I did just press the rear brake, and ABS worked fine.
 

limey

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GearheadGrrrl said:
Why?

I can understand why folks want to be able to lock up the rear wheel to put the bike into a slide. On my '13, just push down on the brake pedal alone and the rear ABS is disabled, ABS only works when you use the linked brakes via the handlebar lever. The only "advantage" to disabling both front and rear ABS is that you can lock up the front brake... And you don't want to do that and go down before you can release the brake!
I’m sorry but that is not true.
 

HeliMark

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GearheadGrrrl said:
Why?

I can understand why folks want to be able to lock up the rear wheel to put the bike into a slide. On my '13, just push down on the brake pedal alone and the rear ABS is disabled, ABS only works when you use the linked brakes via the handlebar lever. The only "advantage" to disabling both front and rear ABS is that you can lock up the front brake... And you don't want to do that and go down before you can release the brake!
Pressing down on the rear brake only will only disable the linked brakes. Using the front brake first, then the rear, keeps the brakes linked. ABS is functional at all times unless disabled by a switch/fuse/lifting the bike and running the rear off the ground.


Mark
 

Checkswrecks

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HeliMark said:
Pressing down on the rear brake only will only disable the linked brakes. Using the front brake first, then the rear, keeps the brakes linked. ABS is functional at all times unless disabled by a switch/fuse/lifting the bike and running the rear off the ground.


Mark

Agreed
::008::
 

Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
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HeliMark said:
Pressing down on the rear brake only will only disable the linked brakes. Using the front brake first, then the rear, keeps the brakes linked. ABS is functional at all times unless disabled by a switch/fuse/lifting the bike and running the rear off the ground.


Mark
Also this way mine works.
 

WJBertrand

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GearheadGrrrl said:
Why?

I can understand why folks want to be able to lock up the rear wheel to put the bike into a slide. On my '13, just push down on the brake pedal alone and the rear ABS is disabled, ABS only works when you use the linked brakes via the handlebar lever. The only "advantage" to disabling both front and rear ABS is that you can lock up the front brake... And you don't want to do that and go down before you can release the brake!
Sounds like you have confused disabling the linked brake with disabling the ABS when using only the rear brake. Go out and stomp on your rear brake on some clean pavement. See that black skid mark? No? Good, your system is working properly then. ::008::
 

GearheadGrrrl

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I'll try locking up the back wheel on my next ride to verify that "feature" still works. Mine's a '13, so could be this is a "feature" Yamaha took away later.
 

Checkswrecks

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GearheadGrrrl said:
I'll try locking up the back wheel on my next ride to verify that "feature" still works. Mine's a '13, so could be this is a "feature" Yamaha took away later.

Both my Gen1 and Gen2 were the same in this.
 

HeliMark

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GearheadGrrrl said:
I'll try locking up the back wheel on my next ride to verify that "feature" still works. Mine's a '13, so could be this is a "feature" Yamaha took away later.
Have a '13 also, press it down enough and you will feel the ABS cycling with the kicking in the pedal.

Mark

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
 

limey

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GearheadGrrrl said:
I'll try locking up the back wheel on my next ride to verify that "feature" still works. Mine's a '13, so could be this is a "feature" Yamaha took away later.
If you can lock up your rear wheel the ABS isn’t working.
 

Ali Sleiman

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Sep 29, 2018
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@moespeeds , thank you for the write up.
Any chance of the template for your "dash plate"?
Been hedging for a while, but all have to mount thus far is the gear indicator.
Adding your ABS disable switch will be the perfect excuse the mount the dashplate.

Sent from my BBA100-2 using Tapatalk

I'm also interested in this panel if it's a ready made product.
 
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