High mileage valve adjustment - a good time to change the cam chain?

[dcstrom]

Hey Guys,

Will be doing a service on the bike some time in the next couple of months, and pretty sure I will need to adjust valves. At the last check I had 2 exhaust valves that were fractionally tight, which the mechanic and I judged to be not tight enough to warrant doing an adjustment. Next time around, I most likely WILL do the adjustment, unless those valves have miraculously loosened off.

The bike will probably have around 74k miles on it by the time I do the valve adjust - my question is, how much extra work is it to change the cam chain? It would seem to be a good time to install a new one while it's all apart, even if the original is only slightly worn - cam chains are cheap at $34.

I also see that the cam chain tensioner part number has changed too - anyone know the difference? This is more expensive at $187 - worth changing? This brings up the point - are the '14's quieter on startup? That might tell us if there is something new that fixes the rattliness...

TENSIONER ASSY, CAM 2BS-12210-00-00 (replaces 23P-12210-00-00) $186.99

Other parts? Chain guides
14 DAMPER, CHAIN 1 23P-12251-00-00 1 $25.24
15 DAMPER, CHAIN 2 23P-12252-00-00 1 $60.49

Chain
10 CHAIN (98XRH2015-150M) 94591-61150-00 1 $34.64

Thanks!

 

[Koinz]

It wouldn't hurt to replace the chain and other components. Haven't heard of any issues though from anyone regarding broken chains and such.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I change the gears as well when I have to do a chain, guides, tensioner in the automotive world...

 

[HoebSTer]

Sail2xx has what should be 120k miles on his Tenere and what I believe original chain. How is this chain different than like ones on ST1100 where we would see 300k miles on original chains? Guides maybe, but chains, I wouldn't think so.
Any helpers on my thought?

 

[Don in Lodi]

200,000 miles on Toyota 22R guides and tensioner when self destruct gets activated. I've seen it several times now. Trevor, you're good for another hunert kay!

 

[greg the pole]

I have to agree with the others.
The guides should have almost zero wear on them.

The original cam chain tensioner is a pita to work with.
not sure about the new design, but ebay has lots of manual adjuster chain tensioners.
I would leave the chain alone, and keep riding it.

It's obviously well lubricated, and unless you see wear on it, I would leave it.

 

[BWC]

I also see that the cam chain tensioner part number has changed too - anyone know the difference? This is more expensive at $187 - worth changing? This brings up the point - are the '14's quieter on startup? That might tell us if there is something new that fixes the rattliness...

DCStrom,
Did replace the cam chain tensioner on my 2012 with the upgraded 2014 2BS part number this spring. Noise gone.
Was noticing an occasional small amount of cam chain noise about every 3rd or so cold start last fall around 50,000 km. Not a serious problem by any means but a bit annoying. Did some looking and it seems these style of tensioners are used in a few different M/C brands and there have been some reports of this happening. I don't know about replacing the chain, guides and sprockets as the manual states if needed replacing, they should be replaced as a set along with the crankshaft ??? as the lower sprocket is part of the crank.
I'm sure some others with much higher mileage bikes would be better at giving a report if there are any long term maintenance issues with the valve train, which seems very doubt full being such a relatively low RPM engine.

There are a few visible differences between old and new, end of the new piston rod on the left has a slightly longer projection.

And the hole in the end of the new adjuster on the right is slightly smaller, don't know about a possible check valve inside the adjuster body as I wasn't going to take it any further apart.

They have a new part number for the two bolts that fasten it, although I couldn't see any difference to the old ones, except the new ones were black?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBNlPRWF5LE
And I think this was posted before on the forum regarding resetting the tensioner prior to installation. Practiced resetting the old one,which was pretty easy, then had a look at the new one, then tried to reset it. It was a bit more challenging to get it to reset than the old one.

And you have to remove the clutch cover to "set" the new tensioner after installation. Done by giving the chain damper it pushes against a bump with a screwdriver to "release " it. (really good to have a shop manual for the tensioner replacement :-\)



Enjoy the reports on your travels Trevor, ride safe. Bernie

 

[XtreemLee]

BWC mentions that the manual says if you change one part you should change them all. That is 3why I wouldnt do it. The chain stretches and the sprockets wear together. Just a new chain could really tear things up.

 

[Mzee]

At what mileage should one really change the chain, and other stuff?

 

[XtreemLee]

At what mileage should one really change the chain, and other stuff?

Just before ur motor grenades

 

[sail2xxs]

The cam chain on my bike was replaced about 2 weeks ago at a bit over 119,000 miles. It was definitely time.

The bike has been running much more smoothly since. ::001::

Chris

 

[Don in Lodi]

The cam chain on my bike was replaced about 2 weeks ago at a bit over 119,000 miles. It was definitely time.

The bike has been running much more smoothly since. ::001::

Chris

New guides and tensioner also? I'd guess no new gears though.

 

[markjenn]

My vote is not to fix what isn't broken. In fact, if the valves are still within spec, even if at the limits of spec, leave them alone too.

- Mark

 

[Koinz]

The cam chain on my bike was replaced about 2 weeks ago at a bit over 119,000 miles. It was definitely time.

The bike has been running much more smoothly since. ::001::

Chris

I believe that. As the chain wears, the link pins start bind and the chain doesnt straighten out as smoothly as they should almost to the point that the chain starts to walk up the gears. My sons trx 450 was doing that and made a hell of a racket. New chain made a big difference.

 

[sail2xxs]

New guides and tensioner also? I'd guess no new gears though.

Yes to guides and tensioner, but no new gears.

Any remaining clatter when the bike is at idle comes from the clutch basket.

Best,

Chris

 

[cosmic]

I'm on 19000mls and my tensioner is rattling every cold start for about 3 secs. Soon after that one is gone, i hear kind of irregular ticking sound, that appears to be coming from the tensioner side. Could it be something with the valves?? ::017::

 

[Clevermonkey]

I don't have experience with this motor but my philosophy is if you are paying to get in the motor, the parts are cheap, also replacing a little early is better than replacing too late. Never had a major engine meltdown other than one caused by poor workmanship by the PO.

If you trust your mechanic, ask him what he thinks, go with his advice. Even with that mileage that bike is worth a lot of money might as well maintain your investment.

 

[NoMorBills]

I have read this whole thread and there is everything about cam chains and tensioners but nothing about this High Mileage Valve

I would love to now how to adjust it so I can get more Mileage.

 

[markjenn]

I have read this whole thread and there is everything about cam chains and tensioners but nothing about this High Mileage Valve

If you intended to link to something, it isn't working.

- Mark

 

[Don in Lodi]

I have read this whole thread and there is everything about cam chains and tensioners but nothing about this High Mileage Valve

I would love to now how to adjust it so I can get more Mileage.

In this thread the Original Poster wasn't asking about the valve adjust, it's something needed any way. He was asking about the peripheral stuff, chains, guides etc.