Hi Folks, new to site and contemplating S10

[bikepharmer]

I am researching a new steed and the S10 has made the short list. One question I have is how easy are they to work on? I am reasonably mechanically inclined and like to work on my own stuff, particularly since shops around here tend to have ham-fisted monkeys working in them and like to charge huge money for shop rates.

I'm mainly wondering about things like valve checks and adjustments, drive line, brakes, electrics, clutch, and other DIY type stuff. I am not yet skilled enough to split engine cases.

My current ride is a KLR, which is pretty simple to work on, like an overgrown lawnmower engine. So far, so good.

 

[RED CAT]

Welcome aboard. They don't need to be worked on. Just ride em for the first couple of years then maybe contemplate a valve adjust. You might do an oil change or two in between. Don't waste anymore time. Go buy one! ::001::

 

[coastie]

You don't have one yet? Well you won't need to fix anything, this motorcycle just keeps trucking. But you will drain your wallet to farkle it up and it's very easy to work on.

 

[MidlifeMotor]

I am researching a new steed and the S10 has made the short list.

What else is on the short list? Maybe that would help provide input without bashing the other makes. Not a lot of bashing on this forum which is a good thing.

 

[HoebSTer]

Do some checking on Nick Sanders who rode 50,000 miles in 4 or so months, he barely did any maintenance and all was good inside the motor. Overall, this bike is easy to work on and easy to ride and enjoy!!!! Like others said, go get one!!!!

 

[oregon-rider]

::004:: I have found nothing hard to work on so far ::008:: You get a S10 and you need to do very little more than service it . ::022::

 

[Twisties]

Oil changes and final drive oil changes are ridiculously simple, and comprise the bulk of the scheduled maintenance. They are changed at first service. Then oil is every 4000 miles, filter every 8000 miles thereafter. The final drive oil is every 12,000 miles IIRC. At 12000 miles come the spark plugs. That I found difficult, however a ratcheting box end wrench would solve most of the problem. Air filter is something like 24000 miles, as are valves. I'll probably take it in for valves.

Wheels and tires are pretty much standard difficulty for a double sided swing arm machine.

The cowlings come off and on in a few minutes, and overall access throughout the machine is easy. Yamaha accessories come with detailed instructions.

Parts and machining are top notch.

The owner's manual actually tells you how to do most of it. We are here to support the rest.

 

[GrahamD]

Spokes need checking at 600Km and 1000 and every so often after that. Usually are no trouble after the initial bed in, but I shoudl add that they may not need attention at all, it's just a good idea to follow the service schedule on them.

Apart from that, umm what they said.

 

[MotorcopBBQ]

::004::. This is the best bike I've ever own and ridden!

 

[mingo]

Unlike a couple of european brands, (ie. triumph and bmw), this bike is ready for to go without continuous software updates to address stalling glitches, or other issues. It's refreshing for me having owned several of aforementioned european bikes. Valve checks are the longest in this category: 42,000 km.. vs. 20,000 km (12K miles) for the 800GS. I'm really pleased that all the electrics are on the side, easy to reach, the fuel tank is hinged, so you don't have to struggle with removing it, just lift it up and get to the airbox and the top of the engine. Oil filter and oil drain plugs, super easy, same with the final drive.. there's a filler hole and a drain, both easily accessible.


A recent american MCN tested the 800GS vs. Tiger 800XC and the fueling / stalling glitch was a notable flaw. There's also a mistake where they said the 800GS has a 20K MILES valve check interval, it's 20K KM, ie. 12k miles.

 

[Rasher]

Oil changes and final drive oil changes are ridiculously simple, and comprise the bulk of the scheduled maintenance. They are changed at first service. Then oil is every 4000 miles, filter every 8000 miles thereafter. The final drive oil is every 12,000 miles IIRC. At 12000 miles come the spark plugs. That I found difficult, however a ratcheting box end wrench would solve most of the problem. Air filter is something like 24000 miles, as are valves. I'll probably take it in for valves.

Only do oil (including FD) so far, but found it real easy and it looks like they tried to design the bike with maintenance in mind, on my GS you needed the wheel out to change FD oil, on pre '08 models you needed to remove the entire FD assembly.

I too have been impressed with panels, again far easier to fit / remove than the GS and certainly a lot easier than the sportsbikes I always had in the past.

In the UK the oil changes are every 6k, I will probably change drive oil at the same time just because it is so easy - and cheap as you can get 4 changes from a 1L bottle of gear oil, this is probably un-necessary on the Yamaha, but certainly can't do any harm.

I will probably want to do swingarm pivots and suspension lnkages around 12k as in my experience most bikes don't come very well greased from new, not looked at what's involved yet, but I have the Yamaha workshop manual which is well written and easy to follow (so far)

 

[AVGeek]

Desert SW? There's a bunch of us here on the surface of the sun....

This is easily one of the easiest bikes to work on. There's not a lot of bodywork to it, like say, an FJR, so getting to the important bits is easy. I do caution anyone tilting the tank up to first pull up the drip hoses (they come out near the front bottom left of the motor) as they have a tendency to hang up somewhere in their routing, and pull off of the tank.

 

[bikepharmer]

What else is on the short list? Maybe that would help provide input without bashing the other makes. Not a lot of bashing on this forum which is a good thing.

I am favoring the S10 pretty heavily, but the KTM 990 adv, the BMW F800, and Triumph Tiger(s) 800 and 1050 are under consideration. I have not ruled out a Vstrom, but they don't do much for me even though I admit to never having a leg over one.

Lots of good reports here. I really prefer to do my wrenching whenever possible, and it sounds like the S10 is pretty straight forward. One concern I have is for the final drive and reports of high heat, and another is extensive electronics (YCCT, traction control). The main reason the R1200GS is not on this list is final drive issues, and too much gadgetry to go wrong.

I have not seen much of anything bad on the S10, but have to recognize it is still pretty new.

 

[TEN YC]

I have not seen much of anything bad on the S10, but have to recognize it is still pretty new.

The Super Tenere has been on the ground all over the world for well over 2 years now. I think at this point we are way past "wait and see" phase. It has been put through every type of road scenario out there. These days most companies are retooling bike models every 3 or 4 years on average. So the the S10 is not a baby anymore by those standards.


by the way, it is the best overall bike I've ever owned or ridden

 

[coastie]

Don't worry about the FD, it is metal gears inside a metal casing full of oil, supported by a full swing arm. NOTHING like a GS. It gets hot but nobody has had problems except some have had a gasket on the inside that has wept a little. I believe it can be changed out in about 30 minutes. The only other problem a few have had is riding over corrugated road for extended time, you will get some fluid that comes out the vent, but that is not really a problem. Reports are when you switch to synthetics in the FD it runs much cooler.

 

[Twisties]

I don't go on ADVRider much, so maybe I have missed something, but I don't recall having heard of even a single FD failure on the S10. I'm not counting minor issues such as the aforementioned weeping seal. But ride ending failures that require a major repair. Anyone heard of even one?

In any event, this is the first I've heard of a complaint of the FD heat being an issue. I think some folks measured it at around 140 F, IIRC. Not an issue in my mind.

The electronics work for me. It's all part of the fly by wire systems now. So it's really all one integrated system.

If I have any niggles with this bike they are in the suspension department, and maybe with Yamaha accessories. The Yammie Aluminum skid plate has been known to rip out the bottom of the sump on a hard blow (other aftermarket skid plates are ok). The Yammie luggage is small, the locks are fiddly and inconvenient.... but it looks great, is light, and mounts up real nice.... On the other hand, everyone loves the Yammie heated grips. I also think you might need to invest in some wind management from the aftermarket.

 

[rem]

Welcome on, bikepharmer from the desert. I don't work on my bike much, but there are others here who do so a great deal. I just enjoy it. Have had no issues with it to date. 10,000 km (6,000 miles). All good. Rode it back from Calgary a few weeks ago. Not a peep. You'd enjoy one if you got it. Promise. ::004:: R. ::022::

 

[bikepharmer]

Don't worry about the FD, it is metal gears inside a metal casing full of oil, supported by a full swing arm. NOTHING like a GS. It gets hot but nobody has had problems except some have had a gasket on the inside that has wept a little. I believe it can be changed out in about 30 minutes. The only other problem a few have had is riding over corrugated road for extended time, you will get some fluid that comes out the vent, but that is not really a problem. Reports are when you switch to synthetics in the FD it runs much cooler.

Ok, I'm pretty convinced...

I think I will soon be joining the S10 family. I need to liquidate a few toys first, but it will be worth it! Too bad there are not any low mileage used ones out there...guess that says something right there, doesn't it?