Help - low end throttle horrible on new bike, will an ecu flash help?

Sierra1

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I just recalibrated my right hand. Worked like a charm! Throttle is now perfect. ::012::
 
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RonH

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Sierra1 said:
I just recalibrated my right hand. Worked like a charm! Throttle is now perfect. ::012::
Same here. The 2017 is way better than my 2012 was. Still not perfect, but nothing that concerns me in the least. As to the stalling some have had, I've never had that problem either.
I remember when the 2014s came out, and everyone was so thrilled how much better the fueling was, and virtually no one thought an ECU flash was worth doing. Suddenly what was once considered really good was complained of by many, most which never had the older model, not that it matters. Now nothing but complaints. Just ride and enjoy.
 

Curt

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Oops, how could this thread go so long without mention of the clutch fuse mod?
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=4486.0

I stuck in a mini fuse along side my clutch switch connector (didn't even have to unplug the connector) shortly after getting my 2012. It completely solved the torque sensitivity issues off the starting line and in the city, making it a pleasure to ride.

Occasionally I've considered flashing the ECU to get rid of the fuse, but it hardly seems necessary, with the fuse being out of the way and practically invisible. I can go back to 100% stock in 1/2 second if ever need be -- which seems unlikely.
 

Xclimation

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Sierra1 said:
I just recalibrated my right hand. Worked like a charm! Throttle is now perfect. ::012::
I agree with this 100%! No matter what bike I've had.....People always complain about how it rides.....I've always adjusted myself to the bike. After a quick adjustment....NO problem. No 2 bike models are the same! People always trying to make it like their last bike....
There is NO problem with "feathering" the clutch or riding in the friction zone. (However you want to call it.) By riding in the friction zone/feathering your clutch....you're not going to ruin your clutch (despite the myth I hear about this quite often....) For one we have a wet clutch...sayin' Just learn your bike's friction zone and you'll adjust to your bike and before you know it....you'll be part of the bike. I've always been athletic and physically coordinated so it comes to me probably quicker than most...but I believe it will eventually kick in for anyone.
 

greenwall

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RonH said:
Same here. The 2017 is way better than my 2012 was. Still not perfect, but nothing that concerns me in the least. As to the stalling some have had, I've never had that problem either.
I remember when the 2014s came out, and everyone was so thrilled how much better the fueling was, and virtually no one thought an ECU flash was worth doing. Suddenly what was once considered really good was complained of by many, most which never had the older model, not that it matters. Now nothing but complaints. Just ride and enjoy.
I've had both gens. Both were vastly improved by the flash I had done by Anthony. It's not a mystery. He is simply adjusting the fueling to work better. And work better it does. If you rode both versions back to back there would be no question in your mind which is better. Having said that, it's your bike. If you are satisfied with the way it is then you've saved some money.
 

EricV

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Curt said:
Oops, how could this thread go so long without mention of the clutch fuse mod?
Because the clutch fuse mod alters the timing with no regard to load. It ends up advancing the timing waaaaaay too far in some conditions and is.... less than optimal. Does it impact the feel of the bike? Absolutely. Does it work for peeps that don't go WOT all the time and tend to tour more than flog the twisties, well, sort of. Is it kind to the engine? Err, not really. Does it do damage? It may, especially for those that flog the bike at WOT a lot. Double especially for hot climates. Can I document that potential damage? No, but I rather think someone eventually will. :(
 

Checkswrecks

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In the "Way Back" threads are some ECU fueling maps with and without the clutch mod to show what EricV wrote about. They document the potential damage quite well.
 

Sierra1

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The only throttle issue that I have, and it's not really the throttle, is that when the air temperature is below 50ish, the "choke" doesn't shut off. It idles at 1500rpm and there is no engine braking. When the air temp goes back up; back to normal. I've adjusted my riding style to use the engine braking; I like it. It is somewhat frustrating to have a cool/cold weather riding style, and a warm weather riding style. Tech ran diagnostics on it; nothing wrong. He contacted Yamaha and was told "no error codes, nothing wrong". The ECU uses the air temp to adjust the fueling; they should use the coolant temp instead. But, in the big scheme of things, it's not a real big issue. It's only a minor issue that it affects city, stop-n-go riding. ::26::
 

jbrown

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EricV said:
Because the clutch fuse mod alters the timing with no regard to load. It ends up advancing the timing waaaaaay too far in some conditions and is.... less than optimal. Does it impact the feel of the bike? Absolutely. Does it work for peeps that don't go WOT all the time and tend to tour more than flog the twisties, well, sort of. Is it kind to the engine? Err, not really. Does it do damage? It may, especially for those that flog the bike at WOT a lot. Double especially for hot climates. Can I document that potential damage? No, but I rather think someone eventually will. :(
It turns out that the way over advanced timing shown in the neutral map in the flash-tune software for the 2012-2013 bikes is likely an error in the interpretation of the mapping data when the ECU was analyzed.
On the -70 ECU (used on my bike), the map displayed as the neutral map is not actually used at all, and the timing map that is used in neutral (and with the clutch jumper) does not have the high advance values. I have verified this on my bike by setting each map table one at a time to have all zeros (timing at TDC), and riding the bike to tell what gear those values applied to. The -30 ECU has similar data displayed, so I *think* it has the same error, but I cannot verify that myself. AVC may have experimented with that on the -30 - we discussed it a little in email back then after my testing.

So you likely aren't at risk with the clutch jumper. But a flash gives you so much more control over the throttle mapping!
 
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