Help installing Alt Rider engine gaurds

lastparrot

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I am trying to install the Alt Rider Engine guard on my bike. When trying to remove the 17mm fasters near the from mount plate....well I can't get them off. I have actually nearly picked the bike up trying to get these removed and did break a extension for my rachet. What did you guys use to get these off. I am at a loss.
 

Don in Lodi

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It is a cliche, but 'Use a Bigger Hammer' does have applications. Do you know somebody with a compressor and some air tools? Even the new electric impact guns do awesome work. Hitting the bolt with hundreds of hammer blows per minute will very often work better than the long hard pull. Adding heat is a tricky thing. What you apply heat to expands to a certain extent. The expansion causes a change in the forces holding things jammed up, the metals move. The trick with putting heat to the bolt head itself, cool technique btw, is that the expansion pushes the threads harder into the head. It still has the effect of changing the dynamics of the 'bond', just not really in a usable direction. We're dealing with a painted surface, so putting flame to the head, while protecting the bolt as much as possible, to get the head material to expand away from the bolt... not really an option.
No power tools available? Go up a size in your wrench inventory. You can't break a 1/2" drive extension. 3/8" drive isn't really meant for the big stuff. A six point socket and an 18-24" breaker bar will twist a seized 9/16" wheel stud off at the hub. Push down on the breaker bar, don't lift, ever, left and right bolt, from the right side, LOL, lefty loosy. They will break loose with a bang, don't fall flat on your face when it does.

Edit; I re-read BBG's heat technique, missed the mention of Loctite. I'm going to have to try that one day when I'm struggling on a caliper bolt or something. Chev and Ford both love their loctite.

 

tomatocity

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I am guessing it is a newer Tenere. Can you get it to the dealership and have them look at it? Can't imagine the bolts being that tight but... the power wrench at the factory could have been defective.

Lefty Loosey
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Counter Clock Wise
Not Clock Wise

Harbor Freight has a long breaker bar for not much.
 

lastparrot

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I got it loose last night using a impact wrench. I get to go back to the dealership this morning since they didn't put the lower faring back on right after my 600 mile checkup.
 

tomatocity

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lastparrot said:
I got it loose last night using a impact wrench. I get to go back to the dealership this morning since they didn't put the lower faring back on right after my 600 mile checkup.
God to hear. Was there corrosion on the threads?
 

Bio

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The front engine mounts were very tight on my '13. It just took the right angle and a pair of gloves for me to get them started, then it was normal. I guess they don't want the engine falling off? ::025::

I have to second the breaker bar thing. Though, I wouldn't spend money on a 'real' breaking bar. Just get a metal pipe from the hard ware store. 24" long should do in most cases. Works like a charm.
 
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