Help finding switched 12 volt wire

kwn306

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I purchased a S-10 back in December, the weather here in VA got warm this weekend so I decided to start installing Farkles.

Got all of my Alt Rider crap mounted......that was a PITA :-[

This week after work I'll be mounting my Jeese bags and top case, hopefully that will go easier than the Alt Rider stuff.

Next weekend will be dedicated to electrical work.

I'm going to mount a fuse box under the seat, I want it hot when the key is "on" only, so I need to feed the fuse box through a 12V relay.

Where is the best, simplest spot to pick up a 12v switched wire for this task?
 

AVGeek

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I moved this to Technical Discussion, as being a more appropriate location. As far as switched power, there are several threads here about using the factory aux light connector, as it has a 12v switched, ground and 20a fused 12v line. It is located near the tool kit under the lower right fairing.

A very popular choice for a fuse block is the Eastern Beaver PC8, and on any 2013 or earlier, or 2014/15 non-ES bike, there is a nice mounting location under the upper right fairing.
 

TheHelios

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I'm a big fan of using relays over using existing lines. Tap into any red wire for the relay switch and then run power directly from the battery to your new fuse block. That way, you can set whatever amp fuse to the block instead of potentially tripping other unit's fuses.
 

markjenn

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AVGeek said:
A very popular choice for a fuse block is the Eastern Beaver PC8, and on any 2013 or earlier, or 2014/15 non-ES bike, there is a nice mounting location under the upper right fairing.
If three aux circuits are enough, EB sells the 3CS pre-wired with the appropriate connector to sense 12V switched from the aux light connector. Totally plug-and-play and everything fits nicely under the right cover near the battery, so leads are short/tidy and no need to run wiring back to the seat area. (I have one I'm selling, so PM me if you're interested.)

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Yamaha/yamaha.html

- Mark
 

TheHelios

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markjenn said:
If three aux circuits are enough, EB sells the 3CS pre-wired with the appropriate connector to sense 12V switched from the aux light connector. Totally plug-and-play and everything fits nicely under the right cover near the battery, so leads are short/tidy and no need to run wiring back to the seat area. (I have one I'm selling, so PM me if you're interested.)

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Yamaha/yamaha.html

- Mark
$56 for a relay kit? Are you freaking kidding me?!
Someone remind me to make a write-up on how to make a relay harness for under $5. I understand the need for profit but holy crap is the a huge markup.
 

markjenn

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TheHelios said:
Someone remind me to make a write-up on how to make a relay harness for under $5.
Yes, I'd like to see your writeup of duplicating this kit for $5 parts cost.

- Mark
 

kwn306

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TheHelios said:
I'm a big fan of using relays over using existing lines. Tap into any red wire for the relay switch and then run power directly from the battery to your new fuse block. That way, you can set whatever amp fuse to the block instead of potentially tripping other unit's fuses.
Any red wire...................where? Down by the battery ? I'm just looking to trigger the relay.

I already have split fuse box AP-2, running the GPS hot all the time, everything else (heated gear, driving lights, etc.) I want to die when the ignition switch is turned off.

BTW, what is the connector under the seat used for?
 

TheHelios

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kwn306 said:
Any red wire...................where? Down by the battery ? I'm just looking to trigger the relay.

I already have split fuse box AP-2, running the GPS hot all the time, everything else (heated gear, driving lights, etc.) I want to die when the ignition switch is turned off.

BTW, what is the connector under the seat used for?

The blue circle shows where I'm tapping into one of the red wires from one of the large harnesses. In the photo, I'm using an 18-22 guage generic wire tap which a complete piece of crap. I suggest a PosiTap if you don't mind spending a bit more on a high quality tap. And, if you're like me and don't have a PosiTap, your cheapo taps suck and you want the job done right now, then you'll just chop a wire in half and fuse wires to tap into that line. (Yellow Circle)


As a quick run through of what a relay does: When wired up to something that only has power when the bike is on (accessory port, dash, etc.), then stuff connected to the relay's "on" switch will be on. When the bike is turned off, then anything connected to the relay's "on" switch will be off.
This video teaches you everything you'll need/want to know about relays: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAeKTlieYhw

I'm not sure for the connector under the seat. I think I read it's a diagnostic port but take that with a grain of salt.
Edit: Seems to be under contention if it's Diagnostic or ABS related: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=2891.0
 

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tomatocity

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TheHelios said:
$56 for a relay kit? Are you freaking kidding me?!
Someone remind me to make a write-up on how to make a relay harness for under $5. I understand the need for profit but holy crap is the a huge markup.
You are the first person I have heard complain about Eastern Beaver and I have been buying from James for ten years. EB products are based on knowledge, quality of products, connectivity, and simplicity. These products are true plug n play with dependability. Not all of us are experts in this field so we depend on products like Eastern Beaver provides and the knowledge of persons like James.

I do like the idea of inexpensive solutions so if you can offer this information I am sure myself and other riders would appreciate that.
 

Xt1200zsupertenere

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I have visionX auxlights ( high beam ) .... Positive + and negative - botch on the battery ( fuse !! On + )
Relay next to the battery and on off switch on on handlebar....
+ signal i took from aux light contacht behind toolbox , not GOOD ! , because the hight beam light can run together with low-beam ( only okay with " foglights " / DRL ....
So i foundation Wiré to original hight beam ( yellow ) and now its perfect

 

TheHelios

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tomatocity said:
You are the first person I have heard complain about Eastern Beaver and I have been buying from James for ten years. EB products are based on knowledge, quality of products, connectivity, and simplicity. These products are true plug n play with dependability. Not all of us are experts in this field so we depend on products like Eastern Beaver provides and the knowledge of persons like James.

I do like the idea of inexpensive solutions so if you can offer this information I am sure myself and other riders would appreciate that.
Oh, I have no problem with Eastern Beaver products. Waiting to take the dive and buy one of their fuse blocks. I just have an issue with the relay kit when no "expensive" specialty tools are needed and consists of < $5 worth of parts to make said kit.

Parts needed:
Required-
Relay (I bought a 5 pack which includes a pluggable wire harness for $15) (based on initial purchase, 1 relay is $3)
Wiring ( < $1 if you buy under a foot of 14 guage wiring from Home Depot) (Freeif you have some good stereo wiring hanging around)
Harbor Freight Solderless Terminal Kit (Kit was $8. The pieces you need from it cost easily under 5 cents each and you'd need about 3 terminal connectors, maybe 2 butt connectors, and a wire tap which are all included)

Optional-
Electric tape (I use it to wind up all wires to make them look nice)
Heat Shrink Tubing (Protect any crimping connections you make with a terminal connector or butt connector. If you don't have this, then Electrical tape is almost as good.)

Initial cost of everything: $24
Actual cost of each part: Under $5

If I find time this weekend, I'll make a fancy picture guide. I need to make a relay harness for my car (need to fix my "before I knew how to wire things" wiring job that I did for my radar detector and dash cam) so this would be a good opportunity to take pictures.
 

AVGeek

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kwn306 said:
Any red wire...................where? Down by the battery ? I'm just looking to trigger the relay.

I already have split fuse box AP-2, running the GPS hot all the time, everything else (heated gear, driving lights, etc.) I want to die when the ignition switch is turned off.

BTW, what is the connector under the seat used for?
The connector under the seat is a diagnostics connector.
 

markjenn

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TheHelios said:
Oh, I have no problem with Eastern Beaver products. Waiting to take the dive and buy one of their fuse blocks. I just have an issue with the relay kit when no "expensive" specialty tools are needed and consists of < $5 worth of parts to make said kit.
You keep calling the EB kit a "relay kit". The $60 price they have for the 3CS for the S10 includes a fuse block (a nice waterproof one), the aux light connector, an inline main fuse, and all the connectors for wiring three accessories as well. It's a complete solution..... you just wire your accessories to the provided connectors and plug it in. Whether it is worth $60 is up to you, but comparing it to a relay and some wire is ridiculous.

- Mark
 

TheHelios

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markjenn said:
You keep calling the EB kit a "relay kit". The $60 price they have for the 3CS for the S10 includes a fuse block (a nice waterproof one), the aux light connector, an inline main fuse, and all the connectors for wiring three accessories as well. It's a complete solution..... you just wire your accessories to the provided connectors and plug it in. Whether it is worth $60 is up to you, but comparing it to a relay and some wire is ridiculous.

- Mark
Whoops, you were talking about the 3CS when you first posted the EB link. Sorry about that!

The "PC-8/AP-2 Relay Kit Only (No PC-8) for New Super Tenere $55.95" is what I was talking about. The 3CS value is fantastic and I'd buy that myself. Parts listed above = $15 + $10 for fuse block + aux light connector (I'd love to know where they get that) + already wired up = awesome.

The relay kit for the PC8 is still bonkers. The 3CS, for $4 extra, is basically a deluxe version of the PC8 relay kit minus two-PC8 specific cables. That is, unless I'm missing something that makes a major cost difference in the relay kit (no, the extra 2 wires don't do that).
 

kwn306

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Wow, I ask a question about a switched 12 volt source and now we are talking about an EB wiring harness and fuse system which is proposed to be mounted under the side cover of the bike.

To access the EB fuse block you need tools to remove the side cover. By locating the fuse block under the seat all I need is the ignition key.

I have been riding for 45+ yrs, been installing aux fuse blocks before all this fancy stuff was designed, back in the day we used glass fuses and marine grade brass fuse blocks, solder and electrical tape and they have always been under the seat..............I've never drowned one yet.

Thanks for the information in reference to the trigger wire for the relay.
 

Beakless

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the triangle three prong accessory plug has a brown wire that is switched power and fused by the 20 amp ignition fuse.
the square four prong accessory plug has a blue and black striped wire that is switched power and fused by the 15 amp turn signal fuse.
both plugs have a solid black ground wire.
both of these plugs are unused on a stock Tenere and tucked in the harness just forward of the battery.

Info from testing circuits on my 2013.

Hope this helps
 

TheHelios

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kwn306 said:
Wow, I ask a question about a switched 12 volt source and now we are talking about an EB wiring harness and fuse system which is proposed to be mounted under the side cover of the bike.

To access the EB fuse block you need tools to remove the side cover. By locating the fuse block under the seat all I need is the ignition key.

I have been riding for 45+ yrs, been installing aux fuse blocks before all this fancy stuff was designed, back in the day we used glass fuses and marine grade brass fuse blocks, solder and electrical tape and they have always been under the seat..............I've never drowned one yet.

Thanks for the information in reference to the trigger wire for the relay.
I have no idea why but I bought 10 amp ceramic fuses from Radio Shack. Brass fuses sound much cooler.
 

markjenn

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TheHelios said:
Whoops, you were talking about the 3CS when you first posted the EB link. Sorry about that!

The "PC-8/AP-2 Relay Kit Only (No PC-8) for New Super Tenere $55.95" is what I was talking about. The 3CS value is fantastic and I'd buy that myself. Parts listed above = $15 + $10 for fuse block + aux light connector (I'd love to know where they get that) + already wired up = awesome.

The relay kit for the PC8 is still bonkers. The 3CS, for $4 extra, is basically a deluxe version of the PC8 relay kit minus two-PC8 specific cables. That is, unless I'm missing something that makes a major cost difference in the relay kit (no, the extra 2 wires don't do that).
Glad we could clear the confusion. The relay kits by themselves do seem a bit pricey.

- Mark
 
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