Have to pump the clutch lever after bike sits overnight...

[ghaley]

There was a thread last year about this. My 2015 does it as well, I have to push out on the lever and pump it a few times to get full disengagement at first. After that it works fine. Anybody else out there with this problem? Based on the earlier thread, I'm not the only one...

 

[Squibb]

Sounds like air in the clutch line somewhere. Check the master & slave for any obvious leaks, as well as the clutch line for damage.

Then get the system bled through with fresh fluid - search is your friend on this, if you are uncertain, or get down to your local Yam dealer. Whatever you do, don't sit back & ignore the issue - it won't get better by itself, only progressively worse. Occasionally, even after bleeding, some folk find they get a little trapped air at the top of the system which can be a devil to clear.

The only other possibility, is clutch drag. Whilst it's colder now, this seems a bit unlikely on a 2015 bike unless you are running the wrong oil - I have heard of riders creating clutch issues by using top quality motor oil intended for cars/bikes with a dry clutch, rather than the wet clutch we have on the S10.

Ride Safe ...................... KEN

 

[Andylaser]

Might have been me that mentioned this.

Anyway, I had exactly the same problem with mine. Every morning, push the lever out and pump it a couple of times. I got the dealer to bleed the system, but the problem returned after a couple of days. I returned the bike to them and they kept it longer,to allow 24 hours before inspecting the clutch. They experienced the issue first hand and determined there was an air leak in the clutch master cylinder. This was replaced under warranty, and things have been perfect ever since.

I would bet good money there is a microscopic leak in the clutch cylinder.

 

[ghaley]

Thanks Andy, that's the info I was looking for. I hope this helps others as well, we are not the only ones experiencing this problem

 

[Squibb]

Hold your horses ghaley.

Andy could well be right, but you could waste a hell of a lot of time chasing shadows too Casting faults happen, but they are pretty rare. In my experience, slave failures are the most common, across all makes. Bikes get dropped/damaged often enough, but it's also rare that clutch issues ensue unless the line gets snagged or the master disgorges it's contents. Even with pinholes, in the casting or hydraulic line, there is usually a witness mark that will have attracted dirt or discolouration - it may look just like a small spot of tar on a clutch or brake line.

The whole system needs a check up first IMHO, then a vac bleed with some fresh fluid. Some say the banjo at the top needs releasing to get that last bit of air out. You are under warranty, so put your dealer to the test - if all else fails, then have them look at the master & slave.

Just one final thought - have any changes been made to the bars, or have risers been fitted that could have stressed the hydraulic lines at any stage?

Good luck finding the solution. Keep us posted ......................... KEN

 

[OldRider]

You would think that any flaw in the lines or fittings that were allowing air in, would let fluid out and you would see a leak, but that's not always the case. I had a HD come in the shop a few months ago with soft rear brakes. After bleeding the brakes everything seemed fine until you hit the brakes a few times and they would go soft again. Bleed them again and all was fine for a short time and then no brakes.

Come to find out the rear brake light switch had a flaw in it and it acted like a one way check valve. Under pressure it would seal itself, but when you let off the brake it would open up and suck a small amount of air in.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Air molecules are a lot smaller than fluid molecules, so it's not uncommon for air to get into many things without a fluid leak.

 

[ghaley]

Thanks for all the replies. To those that think there is air in the system somewhere, that would make sense if the clutch worked poorly (continued to not disengage properly, etc.), but that's not the case. Once the clutch lever is pumped, it works fine until it sits again. So I think it has to be something more unusual than that. As to the thought of allowing the dealer to take a try at it-I'd rather pump it up every day for the next 10 years before I waste that kind of time. They couldn't deal with a simple recall on my KLR in a reasonable and professional manner. I may buy a clutch master cyl and replace that-found it for $135

 

[WJBertrand]

I sense some resistance to performing a flush and bleed of the clutch hydraulics. Why wouldn't one just do it? Fresh fluid won't hurt anything and it might fix the problem. For a $5 can of fluid and 15 minutes time, why not JFDI?


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[klunsford]

My 2012 did it and now my 2014 is doing the same thing. I think I will do the flush and bleed on mine.

 

[Squibb]

No disrespect intended, but this is getting silly IMHO.

When you pump the lever in the morning, you simply compress the small amount of air in the system, so the clutch functions OK. If the same amount of air remains, so the same procedure will work. However, if there is a genuine leak somewhere, or a master slave cylinder problem, things will get worse progressively; you might get stranded, you could even end up damaging the transmission.

I have been there with this issue, as have many of us on here - my last problem child was a KTM 990 Adv. Turned out is was the slave that had failed. It allowed air into the system & leaked fluid, not externally, but internally down the clutch pushrod. Luckily KTM use mineral fluid, not DOT4/5, so no real harm done, but we still did an oil change as a precaution. Not an uncommon problem with KTMs of a certain vintage, the guys have some great stories about replacing missing fluid from the system in a total loss scenario - shall we say a full bladder & good control helps.

So, OP. Your clutch system needs a proper check up & bleed asap - whatever the reason might be for procrastination, it's unlikely to be your friend in this instance. I shall say no more on the subject.

......................... KEN

 

[Dogdaze]

I'll agree with what Squibb said. Also there was an issue raised on here not so long ago, and the member replaced all the master cylinder seals, and washer on the bolt at the lever. The rubber seal was getting hung up inside the piston and inverting itself, still worked, but showed the same symptoms you mention.

 

[The Ferret]

The clutch line is known to keep its air. A method I used may work.
1) place the bike on the main stand and in first gear.
2) operate the clutch and turn the rear wheel by hand ( get a feel for the resistance ).
3) bleed the clutch line with whatever method suits you.
4) turn the bars to the right. Clutch master at highest point.
5) tie wrap or bungee the clutch lever back to the bars.
6) turn the rear wheel by hand. Should be the same or better than at point 2.
7) leave like this overnight to allow any air to collect at the master cylinder.
8) check for leakage along the line
9) release the clutch lever. This should allow collected air to escape into the reservoir.
10) turn the rear wheel whilst operating the clutch see if it turns more easily.
11) put into neutral!