mileageman
New Member
New to the forum and at the suggestion of AVGeek I am posting this topic in this section.
I have been following a few stories of people who are having problems with no start, hard start, unstable idle and high rpm on startup. I too have been suffering these problems for over 1.5 years. My Yamaha dealer has spent a fair amount of time trying to fix the problems. They never came to a conclusion for the reason of the problems but replaced the throttle bodies which seemed to correct the problems but that ended up being only temporary before the problems returned. I decided to investigate the issues myself even though I have the extended warranty because I want to ride instead of waiting on the dealer to produce results. I believe I have found the cause and the bike is running better than it ever has. It has been trouble free for over 3000 miles and approximately 3 months. I will explain my story below and try to keep it brief.
My 2012 Tenere has suffered random no start, fluctuating idle, dying on upshift, and stuck throttle (3200rpm). I won’t go into the long history of how they developed. Suffice it to say that these were completely random with longer periods of persistency. After checking all the sensors and more, believe me, I felt the issues were connected to the controls on the throttle bodies. I had the gas tank hinged up, the air box off in order to watch the throttle action in various situations. Because my vision is poor I had to get my head between the tank and throttle bodies to see. As a result I braced myself off of the frame. When I put my hand on the wiring harness which is attached to the frame cross brace directly in front of the throttle bodies the engine died as if the ignition switch was turned off. With the engine stalled and the ignition still on I was able to lightly push on the wiring harness and rapidly actuate the throttles. However I was only able to repeat it six times before the throttles became steady. I thought there was a short. I took off the cover on the harness. It has a rubberized plastic cover taped over it with electrical tape. The wires looked physically new but I traced each one and produced no intermittent or open conditions. At this point I surmised it was electrical interference from the group of wires being too close to each other. There are six wires in the harness. I separated the front wheel speed sensor and the cooling fan leads into one group. The next group was the two ignition coil leads to number 1 cylinder, and the final group was the acceleration position sensor. I simply used 3/8 in. split wire covers you can get at the auto part stores and electrical tape. I have had absolutely no problems since. In fact the bike runs like new. This work explains the replacement of the throttle bodies being only temporary because you have to manipulate the wires connected to that harness while changing the throttle bodies. I believe that the no start condition is a result of interference to the acceleration position sensor which leaves the throttles closed during startup instead of positioned correctly for the sensor feedback to the ECU.
I do not know the physics of electrical current. I just know it worked for me. For all others on the forum who are having problems similar to this – if you have basic mechanical skills and can perform the above operation you have nothing to loose except 1 hour of your time and 5 dollars for some split wire cover. Probably less time than it would take to haul your bike to the dealer. I hope it works for you so you can ride more!
If you guys think some pictures would help I can try to post them. No guarantees because I am new to this forum stuff being the old fart I am.
Below I attached two photos. I cannot seem to get them in the text, but perhaps you will be able to open them.
The first photo shows the wires separated. I wrapped them in foil so you can spot them easily. The front pair with the boot contains a large tan lead for the front wheel speed sensor combined with a blue and black to the white coupler for the cooling fan.
The middle pair contains both leads to the number 1 cylinder coils. One is red with a black tracer, and the other is yellow with a green dot.
The back pair contains the leads to the acceleration position sensor. One is a large tan lead and the other is blue.
I am guessing that the tan sleeve is an attempt to shield those leads.
The second photo is the job completed with the split sleeve covering the leads.
Hope the photos help.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17952.0;attach=33455;image
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17952.0;attach=33457;image
I have been following a few stories of people who are having problems with no start, hard start, unstable idle and high rpm on startup. I too have been suffering these problems for over 1.5 years. My Yamaha dealer has spent a fair amount of time trying to fix the problems. They never came to a conclusion for the reason of the problems but replaced the throttle bodies which seemed to correct the problems but that ended up being only temporary before the problems returned. I decided to investigate the issues myself even though I have the extended warranty because I want to ride instead of waiting on the dealer to produce results. I believe I have found the cause and the bike is running better than it ever has. It has been trouble free for over 3000 miles and approximately 3 months. I will explain my story below and try to keep it brief.
My 2012 Tenere has suffered random no start, fluctuating idle, dying on upshift, and stuck throttle (3200rpm). I won’t go into the long history of how they developed. Suffice it to say that these were completely random with longer periods of persistency. After checking all the sensors and more, believe me, I felt the issues were connected to the controls on the throttle bodies. I had the gas tank hinged up, the air box off in order to watch the throttle action in various situations. Because my vision is poor I had to get my head between the tank and throttle bodies to see. As a result I braced myself off of the frame. When I put my hand on the wiring harness which is attached to the frame cross brace directly in front of the throttle bodies the engine died as if the ignition switch was turned off. With the engine stalled and the ignition still on I was able to lightly push on the wiring harness and rapidly actuate the throttles. However I was only able to repeat it six times before the throttles became steady. I thought there was a short. I took off the cover on the harness. It has a rubberized plastic cover taped over it with electrical tape. The wires looked physically new but I traced each one and produced no intermittent or open conditions. At this point I surmised it was electrical interference from the group of wires being too close to each other. There are six wires in the harness. I separated the front wheel speed sensor and the cooling fan leads into one group. The next group was the two ignition coil leads to number 1 cylinder, and the final group was the acceleration position sensor. I simply used 3/8 in. split wire covers you can get at the auto part stores and electrical tape. I have had absolutely no problems since. In fact the bike runs like new. This work explains the replacement of the throttle bodies being only temporary because you have to manipulate the wires connected to that harness while changing the throttle bodies. I believe that the no start condition is a result of interference to the acceleration position sensor which leaves the throttles closed during startup instead of positioned correctly for the sensor feedback to the ECU.
I do not know the physics of electrical current. I just know it worked for me. For all others on the forum who are having problems similar to this – if you have basic mechanical skills and can perform the above operation you have nothing to loose except 1 hour of your time and 5 dollars for some split wire cover. Probably less time than it would take to haul your bike to the dealer. I hope it works for you so you can ride more!
If you guys think some pictures would help I can try to post them. No guarantees because I am new to this forum stuff being the old fart I am.
Below I attached two photos. I cannot seem to get them in the text, but perhaps you will be able to open them.
The first photo shows the wires separated. I wrapped them in foil so you can spot them easily. The front pair with the boot contains a large tan lead for the front wheel speed sensor combined with a blue and black to the white coupler for the cooling fan.
The middle pair contains both leads to the number 1 cylinder coils. One is red with a black tracer, and the other is yellow with a green dot.
The back pair contains the leads to the acceleration position sensor. One is a large tan lead and the other is blue.
I am guessing that the tan sleeve is an attempt to shield those leads.
The second photo is the job completed with the split sleeve covering the leads.
Hope the photos help.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17952.0;attach=33455;image
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17952.0;attach=33457;image
