Gen2 start question

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#21
This is the S10 air temperature sensor. Instead of measuring the resistance, why do not you take it out, put it together with the meter you have in the garage, and apply air with the hair dryer, cold / heat .... and you get out the doubt, and you don't spend on a multimeter just for this
View attachment 62555
I wonder if you pulled this out and put it right where it gets real ambient temperatures. It would not only tell the actual outside temp, you would not have to purchase a Booster Plug!! Maybe add some HP and solve any fueling issues so many are complaining about.
 

EricV

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#22
I wonder if you pulled this out and put it right where it gets real ambient temperatures. It would not only tell the actual outside temp, you would not have to purchase a Booster Plug!! Maybe add some HP and solve any fueling issues so many are complaining about.
Give it a try and report back. In theory, intake temp is what the engine is seeing. I believe there is an algorithm on intake them Vs what we see displayed, but don't know for sure.
 
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#23
Give it a try and report back. In theory, intake temp is what the engine is seeing. I believe there is an algorithm on intake them Vs what we see displayed, but don't know for sure.
Not worth it to me. My bike fuels perfectly just the way it is. I thought maybe it was just me. I let a longtime riding buddy take my bike for a spin and he could not believe how smooth the Super Tenere is. Even with full blown knobby's he came back blown away.

As an added bonus I have a temperature prob that came with my Neutrino + PDM. When ignition is turned on, the temperature is instantly displayed via bluetooth to my phone or GPS (whichever I choose).

No hard starting issues on my bike. Since switching over to my 320CCA battery it spins up much quicker. The OEM battery is really weak for this motor. It turns the motor over but just barely with only 180CCA. It's not really noticeable until you get a more powerful battery.
 

old1959

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#24
Plugs were changed at 26k along with air filter and performed a valve check (truly thankful all were within spec).
 

AVGeek

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#25
How old is your battery, and is it still the stock YTX12? I would balance the throttle bodies as mentioned by Checkswrecks and consider a battery change to the YTX14 (same case size, more CCA) if still on the original stocker...
 

2daMax

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#26
Running the bike a the richer side can cause it harder to start. I started noticing longer time to crank after adjusting the CO to +9 from a +8. Consistently takes longer time to cranks even at warm (I live in the tropics). Suspecting that it cause more carbon deposits at the intake valves, I back the CO down to +7, and noticed after some time, it consistently starts quicker.

Just in case it is high carbon deposits at the intake valves, add in some Fuel system cleaner to clean up the valves.

Stronger battery also starts the bike up easier. YTZ14 has the same size as the stock YTZ12.
 

old1959

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#28
Hmmm. Some of you didn’t read original post carefully. The random hard start has plagued this bike before and after replacement of plugs, air filter, valve check, throttle bodies synchronization, etc. Also, very intermittent along with the issue that my location in Texas doesn’t experience a lot of cold weather. I mentioned three stalls over 36k miles. Also, all random but between the two issues I can’t help but think there is a connection. A connection of a lean mixture.

Regarding the battery, stock. Less than two years old and while riding I see 14.1 volts on meter; while cranking 12 to 11.9 volts. Yes, I’ll replace with an upgraded 14 model once two years old.

In the meantime, I’ll give you all a little clue, just a clue, on what I did today... Today the temperature was 64 and the bike thermometer read 24 and, being cold from sitting a couple days, it fired right up. I didn’t go for a ride since it was raining. As soon as I can go for a ride I’ll report more. Unfortunately, this may be a while since I’ll be unable to ride for a while.

Thank you all.
 
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