Gear changing

[Kevinh61]

I think it's me , but I can't seem to change gear without it feeling a rough Change , and a few times it has struggled to change from second to third , only having had the bike since November this year after passing my test , or maybe I'm not used to having gone from a standard clutch to a hydraulic one , all advice is welcome

 

[Don in Lodi]

I think it's me , but I can't seem to change gear without it feeling a rough Change , and a few times it has struggled to change from second to third , only having had the bike since November this year after passing my test , or maybe I'm not used to having gone from a standard clutch to a hydraulic one , all advice is welcome

New bike or new to you? A few hundred miles of rain, or a couple creek crossings and a dusty aftermath can cause it; very often the pivot for the shifter lever will get washed free of all lubrication, or the lube will cake up and cause a high amount of resistance to shifting. A simple matter to pull the hex head bolt and slide the shifter off and wipe things down and regrease things. A few of us here have drilled and tapped the shifter pivot point and installed a grease zirk fitting. A quick shot of grease every few weeks and good to go.

 

[Kevinh61]

The bike is new to me , I will take a look and give it a clean and then re lube it up and even take a look at a zirk fitting , many thanks

 

[Squibb]

I agree, probably just the linkage needs a clean/lube.

However, we are seeing a clutch pump problem from another Forum member concurrently. So it may be worth seeing if the symptoms are still there if you give the clutch a good pump, maybe 6-10 times. This will compress any air in the system for a short while, allowing full clutch actuation, which should avoid any gear crashing. If so, then your clutch hydraulic system needs a check up & fluid bleed/change. You have only owned the bike for a few weeks, so just return to your dealer to get this sorted promptly.

Ride Safe .................. KEN

 

[yoyo]

A mate had the linkage on her S10 seize up solid due to a lack of grease, I'd be inclined to give them a good clean and lube, it's a quick and easy place to start.

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[Checkswrecks]

Required and regular maintenance, best done with oil changes. This is the sticky about it:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=15230.0

 

[WJBertrand]

Gear changing

Don't forget to inspect and lube the clutch lever pivot too. Mine started to get sticky and made smooth release impossible. Poor shifting and stalling the engine trying to pull out were a real problem. I found the pivot was binding on the pin and completely dry of lube.


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[hobdayd]

Also, try adjusting the ergonomics of the clutch lever and the foot gear change lever. I spend quite a while adjusting the foot gear change lever to the best position for slick gear changes. (As little clearance from my boot top to the lever). Just check you don't run out of thread in the adjuster rod by moving the lever on its spline if necessary. And I think the nuts on the adjuster rod are left hand threaded.

I have quite a small finger reach so adjusted my lever as close to the bars as possible...the reach was still a little too much so I bent the lever closer in a press. There is still plenty enough travel for full clutch operation and clutch wear.

 

[MidlifeMotor]

I am gonna go with the shift lever linkage, as I have experienced the same thing. A little lube and problem solved. I have had this happen several times, but shifting from first to second gear. While it never hurts to check the clutch and related components as others suggested, I doubt this is the issue with your bike, as the clutch is not necessary to up shift from second to third smoothly if you time it right.

 

[Madhatter]

hobby shops and stores that sell fishing reels also sell small bottles of machine oil with needle applicators , just work the needle under the rubber grommets and apply a few drops of lube.... never have had to take anything apart this way.... and it seems when the motor oil is close to needing a change the shifting seems less than buttery... after a change to fresh motor oil all seems well.... the linkage especially after rain rides benefits from the lube the most, and its cheap...

 

[limey]

hobby shops and stores that sell fishing reels also sell small bottles of machine oil with needle applicators , just work the needle under the rubber grommets and apply a few drops of lube.... never have had to take anything apart this way.... and it seems when the motor oil is close to needing a change the shifting seems less than buttery... after a change to fresh motor oil all seems well.... the linkage especially after rain rides benefits from the lube the most, and its cheap...

Think we are talking about 2 different things you need to remove the shifter from the pivot bolt and clean and re lube with grease. Takes a few mins.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I've seen people do the Liquid Wrench flush to get the result MadHatter is writing about. It'll un-stick the shifter for a bit but the penetrant goes away quick so the problem will come back. It's a short-term improvement but you are setting yourself up to keep chasing, rather than just doing it at oil changes and never worrying or having a problem.

 

[Kurgan]

Took mine apart yesterday, cleaned and greased, what was OK shifting is now much better.

 

[rid34fun]

Hi KevinH61, could you elaborate on this statement: "but I can't seem to change gear without it feeling a rough Change , and a few times it has struggled to change from second to third"? Is the foot shift lever hard to move? Or is there a grind when shifting, or a thunk? or something different? Maybe all different issues. I have a '14 and one year loving the bike. I noticed that the S10 shifts really smooth, it is a great trans. But, there are little things that you can do to get the best out of it.
1. Adjust the shift linkage like others have said so it fits you and the boots you are wearing. From my experience the shift from 2nd to third has a slightly longer reset, or it is the way I move my foot with my newest pair of boots, sometimes I don'y let the shift lever down far enough and I end up still in second. My new boots are almost broken in so it happens less
2. After the shift to second, slightly preload the shift lever, and pull in the clutch and with slight upward pressure it will slip right in without any sound at all. After some practice, you can ever so slightly back off the throttle while slight upward pressure and it will slip right into the next gear. I rarely use the clutch after the shift from first to second. just slight upward pressure on the lever, slight let off off the throttle and it slides in without a sound.
3. My clutch can sometimes be finicky. I have bled it several times, but some days it needs a few pumps in the morning to get it feeling like it should. It never "not" works, but just feels funny. After a couple of pumps, it feels better. I am keeping my eyes on the clutch thing, but I have heard a few others say similar things.
4. I noticed the S10 does not need to be slammed into gear either, just nice upward pressure and mine slides in fast and seamless. If you are used to a bike with a tougher shift, lots of upward pressure will cause extra thunk.

The S10 in my opinion has a fantastic tranny, better than many bikes I have owned.