Fuse block ideas

[nhdiesel]

Hey all,

I need to get busy and order the electrical supplies to wire up my new ES model. I'll be wiring it for long distance/rally use which means lots of circuits. Requirements are ease of access; reliable/quality; and fit the bike well.

After looking at several options online one thing I want to avoid are the blocks that pinch/clamp the wires in place. That damages the wires, and over time the wires will loosen up. I would rather have either screw terminals I can attach ring terminals to, or blade terminals. I used to use Bussmann fuse/relay panels but I just can't find any room on the Tenere and still have it easy to access. I would also like it to use mini ATO fuses to match the rest of the bike if possible (assuming the Tenere uses modern mini ATO)

So far I have ruled out:
-Blue Sea. Far too bulky.
-Bussmann. GREAT fuse & relay block, but no room to have everything integrated into one unit.
-Centech AP1/AP2- no weather protection and pinched wires.
-Fuzeblock- Pinched wires.
-Eastern Beaver PC8- pinched wires (too bad, was nice otherwise)

Still in the running is the Centech PDP-3 (not sure how the wires hook up, still trying to find info). I also need to check dimensions to see if it will fit.

Anyone have suggestions for a quality fuse block?

 

[Bug Dr.]

I have an Eastern Beaver on the Tenere and ran a Centech AP2 on the ST 1300. I have over 100,000 miles combined with pinched wire fuse blocks and have never had a problem.
Mike

 

[caillou]

I have a Rowe PDM60 on my 2014 ES. I did fit it in the tool box and it is perfect (I have another bigger toolkit when traveling so no use for the original one). What I like with the Rowe is that it does not use fuses (if there is a short, it goes automatically on protection and shut off the circuit until you fix the problem) and is fully programmable via its USB cable: you can choose the amp, relay start or constant on, delay on switch off etc... For each circuit, which is pretty useful.
Installation is a snap and unit is completey sealed and waterproof. I use PosiLock connectors with it, easy, quick and can be disconnected on road side.

 

[nhdiesel]

I am intrigued by the PDM60 but have a couple reservations. The first is the limit of 6 circuits. I could make do with that if I paired up some items, though I hate to do that for the sake of redundancy. I don't want a faulty radar detector to blow the fuse of my GPS for example; and I run dual GPSs, each on their own circuit. But my other concern is that it looks like it has only one trigger wire, which means it can only control one set of lights, OR the Stebel horn. I usually have 3 relays in use- 2 pairs of aux lights, and the Stebel horn. I also have concerns about such a complex component controlling ALL of my aux equipment. If it fails during a rally, I'm out because every farkle I have will be out. At least with something like the Bussmann, if a relay goes I can replace it quickly; the same for the main fuse. Wiring is simple so even a bad spot of wiring can be fixed in minutes. But there is no easy way to bypass the PDM60 if it were to fail.

I'm not discounting it...I just want to learn more about it, real world failure rates, etc.

I appreciate the ideas, I'd love to see more!

 

[PowersUSA]

I know you've ruled it out, but I'm just down the road from you in Gardner and I have a brand new uninstalled Eastern Beaver PC8 if you want to check one out in person.

 

[AVGeek]

There is another option:

motobrain.net

It was developed by an inmate over at ADVRider, and looks to be fairly robust and capable of meeting your needs while still being small.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Use a terminal strip and an auto relay to make your own then fuse (and mark) each circuit coming off the terminal strip.
This combination is simple, inexpensive, and smaller than a lot of the commercial offerings. This means you can put it where you want and set it up with the number of terminals you want which are either battery or switched power.

 

[Bug Dr.]

Use a terminal strip and an auto relay to make your own then fuse (and mark) each circuit coming off the terminal strip.
This combination is simple, inexpensive, and smaller than a lot of the commercial offerings. This means you can put it where you want and set it up with the number of terminals you want which are either battery or switched power.

That would be my next suggestion.....build your own.
Mike

 

[TheHelios]

That would be my next suggestion.....build your own.
Mike

I've got 3 sitting under my battery panel. I really should invest in a fuse block

 

[bigbob]

Use a terminal strip and an auto relay to make your own then fuse (and mark) each circuit coming off the terminal strip.
This combination is simple, inexpensive, and smaller than a lot of the commercial offerings. This means you can put it where you want and set it up with the number of terminals you want which are either battery or switched power.

So one heavy power lead from the battery, Y at a relay on a switched source, and the direct feeds the unswitched half while the relay feeds the switched half?

 

[nhdiesel]

There is another option:

motobrain.net

It was developed by an inmate over at ADVRider, and looks to be fairly robust and capable of meeting your needs while still being small.

EXACTLY what I was looking for! Kind of pricey, but then again, I had nearly that much into my Bussmann install in my ST1300 by the time I bought the minimum quantities of terminals, seals, and everything else needed to go with it. I'm going to read up on it some more, but I think that is a winner. I especially like the low voltage cutoff. Besides cutting power to certain high draw devices (lights, heated gear) if the battery got weak, it could also be programmed to cut power to some items while the battery is still healthy, but when voltage drops below a setpoint (say, 12.8v) to ensure the battery isn't drained when sitting in traffic with the heated gear and all lights on, while idling. It also has good wire attachment points for the outputs.

 

[Checkswrecks]

So one heavy power lead from the battery, Y at a relay on a switched source, and the direct feeds the unswitched half while the relay feeds the switched half?

Right. Add a 30A fuse to the one heavy power lead coming off the battery. The "Y" can simply be the ring terminal at the relay. You can create as few or as many terminals as you want for each type of power (+, sw+, GRD) with a shorting bar.

 

[patrickg450]

Use a terminal strip and an auto relay to make your own then fuse (and mark) each circuit coming off the terminal strip.
This combination is simple, inexpensive, and smaller than a lot of the commercial offerings. This means you can put it where you want and set it up with the number of terminals you want which are either battery or switched power.

this is what I did, easier, cheaper and you KNOW what goes where

 

[nhdiesel]

this is what I did, easier, cheaper and you KNOW what goes where

Just remember to replace them before they rust out. I had two of those on my ST1300 to allow easy disconnect of wiring, as well as altering devices easily (move GPS wire to two different terminals, depending whether I wanted constant hot or key on). I had to replace them about once a year, and one was under the rear seat (tail light wiring) and the other inside the left fairing pocket. They do work well though. I also use them as ground strips. One heavy wire running to the battery or frame, and individual devices grounding to the terminal strip.

 

[pnelson]

snip...
-Eastern Beaver PC8- pinched wires (too bad, was nice otherwise)
snip...

Love my PC8. Put it on the bike during the first week and now have 10,000 miles on it without a single problem. Grips, 2 GPS, aux lights, heated gear, phone, camera charger, 12volt adaptor and love that it has both switched and unswitched circuits.

;-) Paul

 

[nhdiesel]

Love my PC8. Put it on the bike during the first week and now have 10,000 miles on it without a single problem. Grips, 2 GPS, aux lights, heated gear, phone, camera charger, 12volt adaptor and love that it has both switched and unswitched circuits.

;-) Paul

Let me know after it has been in a while. My Bussmann in my ST1300 has been in place for 100k miles and climbing. The only issue I've ever had was corrosion of the main relay (inline between fuse panel and battery). I'll chock that up to winter riding. That is why I really wish there was room for the Bussmann. OEM quality.