glenngibson
New Member
Hi. I have a 2014 s10 ze and find it very snatchy at low speads /small throttle openings. Does anyone else suffer the same problem?
Fueling
- Thread starter glenngibson
- Start date
silvergoose
New Member
Good morning Glenng.
What RPM and what gear are you running, when the problem shows up? When was the last time the Throttles were sync?
I have not experienced your problem with the speeds and areas I ride in, that said I do not try to ride it like a trials bike. The Tenere does not have heavy flywheels so low speed trail ride can be a challenge.
Good Luck
What RPM and what gear are you running, when the problem shows up? When was the last time the Throttles were sync?
I have not experienced your problem with the speeds and areas I ride in, that said I do not try to ride it like a trials bike. The Tenere does not have heavy flywheels so low speed trail ride can be a challenge.
Good Luck
hottrod
New Member
I use T mode on my 15 ST and added a return spring because I found the throttle too easy to open especially on rough roads.
ktmmule
Member
The first thing I noticed on this bike was how notchy the throttle felt at low speed and low RPM'S. It was difficult to be smooth off of idol or low rev's.
I was thinking it must be the FLY-BY-WIRE throttle.
The title of your thread is confusing?
I was thinking it must be the FLY-BY-WIRE throttle.
The title of your thread is confusing?
decooney
Member
Use2btrix said:
No, not snatchy while in "T" mode, and practice learning to use and feather your clutch a little just like you would on a regular dirt bike if needed. I find Touring mode to be very forgiving at closed to 1/3 throttle. However, it's not to say that a remapping of the ECU and higher starting idle speed wouldn't help, I think it might. I'm still looking for someone (with a 2014+ S10) who's remapped their ECU with something like ECU Unleashed and to describe in detail what the notable differences really are in terms of sheer improved "drivability'.
If keeping it in Tour doesn't cut it, look into the threads about resetting the CO and syncing the throttle bodies (TBS). While the Gen2 bikes are far better than the Gen1s were off-idle, the TBS procedure also slightly richens the mixture and helps. For these procedures see the stickies HERE:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?board=78.0
The throttle map in Sport is essentially a straight line between % of throttle position and full power from the engine.When coming off idle, Tour mode has a softer relation than straight-line of throttle position to engine output. Tour mode also provides only something like 2/3 of full power when you hold the throttle wide open, so you get less engine response from each degree of throttle position.These bikes are also not broken in till 5-7,000 miles. My 2014 at 7,300 miles has just recently come into its' own.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?board=78.0
The throttle map in Sport is essentially a straight line between % of throttle position and full power from the engine.When coming off idle, Tour mode has a softer relation than straight-line of throttle position to engine output. Tour mode also provides only something like 2/3 of full power when you hold the throttle wide open, so you get less engine response from each degree of throttle position.These bikes are also not broken in till 5-7,000 miles. My 2014 at 7,300 miles has just recently come into its' own.
Or have a remap ::008::
Lots of flashes available out there, CJS racing will also do a custom dyno setup to get everything perfect, but Bristol is probably a bit far to go, they too will do a flash-by-post, their dyno setup was much better than the ECU-U flash I ran before (on a Gen1 Bike)
Lots of flashes available out there, CJS racing will also do a custom dyno setup to get everything perfect, but Bristol is probably a bit far to go, they too will do a flash-by-post, their dyno setup was much better than the ECU-U flash I ran before (on a Gen1 Bike)
tomatocity
Active Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
I find the T (Touring) mode is best for me. Have never been able to use the S (Sport) mode very well but I can see the plus if someone can adapt.
Can someone discuss the CO settings. Think many of us can benefit.
Can someone discuss the CO settings. Think many of us can benefit.
I had AC a member here on this forum from snake reflash my 2014 ES and I'm VERY happy. I never had my 2012 reflashed. In fact I rode a friends 2012 that had been reflashed and didn't like it.
For me it really didn't change the T mode... perhaps a bit more power. The S mode was totally transformed! My complaints before were the difficulty in being smooth at low rpms but mostly riding hard in the curves it was difficult coming on the gas coming out of a curve. As a bonus what I got was what feels like 20 extra hp when I grab a hand full. This is the best $225 I spent on a bike ever and I'm 47 year ride having spent a lot on a lot of other bikes. I'm super pleased.
However your results my vary depending on how your bike is now compared to how mine was. I didn't believe how different stock bikes could be but they are. Also where and how you ride and what you like to ride vary the results too.
I was very hesitant but rolled the dice and won! I wish you luck.
For me it really didn't change the T mode... perhaps a bit more power. The S mode was totally transformed! My complaints before were the difficulty in being smooth at low rpms but mostly riding hard in the curves it was difficult coming on the gas coming out of a curve. As a bonus what I got was what feels like 20 extra hp when I grab a hand full. This is the best $225 I spent on a bike ever and I'm 47 year ride having spent a lot on a lot of other bikes. I'm super pleased.
However your results my vary depending on how your bike is now compared to how mine was. I didn't believe how different stock bikes could be but they are. Also where and how you ride and what you like to ride vary the results too.
I was very hesitant but rolled the dice and won! I wish you luck.
Andylaser
Active Member
The throttle action is quite sensitive at low revs and does take a bit of getting used to.
It is fine when you have some experience with it.
It is fine when you have some experience with it.
Check for too much slack in the cables at the throttle, or too little slack. I found this to make quite a difference in how touchy the throttle is. Mine had way too much slack.
Cycledude
Well-Known Member
Haven't noticed anything like that on my 13, sounds like something on your 14 might not be adjusted right.glenngibson said:
most folks rave about the Tenere having a wide powerband , it's fine but my other bike is a wing with about 10 more horse than a Tenere, to me the wing powerband is much more impressive, much wider and much smoother, on average so far the wing gets about 2 mpg less than the Tenere.
My 14 was the same way from the dealer. Adjusted the cables tighter and did a throttle body sync and that took most of that away. Still feather the clutch slightly when needed.
I didn't do the reflash until I had 30,000 miles on the bike. And I had put 81,000 on my 2012... was that enough experience? After reflash... same cables. Just saying.Andylaser said:
bigboy61
New Member
My 2016 ES came more alive after I added a Yoshimura RS4 slip on and an K&N air filter.
I love the aggressiveness of the S mode, but in stop and go traffic I have to throttle it down to T mode.
I love the aggressiveness of the S mode, but in stop and go traffic I have to throttle it down to T mode.
There are many fuel injected bikes that have this annoying feature. There is a lot of good info on this forum about TB synch, air screw adjusting and O2 settings. After doing all of that and adjusting the throttle cable play, my bike was much better. I am now trying a throttle tamer from G2ergo. I ordered one from Dennis Kirk for $75 USD. It came with a 200 cam. I noticed a small improvement. I then called Gary at G2ergo and had him send me a 400 cam. This really helped the low speed throttle control. You still get WOT, just a little smoother low speed control. Before buying this throttle tamer, I rode the bike in T mode almost all the time. Now, I use S all the time. It really seems to help that on-off throttle transition. Check out the G2ergo website for pictures and a better explanation. Super easy to install and not very expensive.
JRE
Going to hell on scholarship
^^thisbigboy61 said:
I have a had a few times in the twisties where I've bumped the throttle a bit in a corner and nearly had some unpleasantness due to the abrupt response. Fortunately, I don't ride that aggressively and leave myself plenty of room for error so it wasn't a problem. At some point I will re-map or get a power commander to smooth it out a bit. As mentioned, this is pretty common in a lot of FI bikes. My FJR was the same way making low speed parking lot maneuvers dicey but I remedied it with a PC.
Squibb
Well-Known Member
I haven't found the G2 necessary on my 2014 S10 ZE/ES to be honest. Maybe I have been fortunate with the factory set-up.
However a throttle tamer was essential on my KTMs a few years back, where the standard twist grip cam was far too aggressive for bumpy roads/city traffic/pillion work. Here though, the standard twist grip was intended to be quick action, which I don't think is the case with our S10s. Initially, for touring I ran the 400, with the option of 2 other profiles if needed. I never bothered to change.
It's a great product, offering flexibility, which I can certainly recommend.
Ride Safe ...................... KEN
However a throttle tamer was essential on my KTMs a few years back, where the standard twist grip cam was far too aggressive for bumpy roads/city traffic/pillion work. Here though, the standard twist grip was intended to be quick action, which I don't think is the case with our S10s. Initially, for touring I ran the 400, with the option of 2 other profiles if needed. I never bothered to change.
It's a great product, offering flexibility, which I can certainly recommend.
Ride Safe ...................... KEN