First tire change

[Don in Lodi]

The rear Shinto was a pain to take off. Thaw the hardest part for me.
Once the new tire is on, lots of tire lube on the rim and tire.
My next tire will be a mitas Dakar
Better life and less flex than the k60

Less flex than the K60? The K60 is the stiffest tire I've ever mounted on an mc rim.

 

[greg the pole]

Less flex than the K60? The K60 is the stiffest tire I've ever mounted on an mc rim.

fully loaded at or above 130 km/h the k60 has a bit of tendency to weave, not as sure footed on the wet
It would also be handier to get rid of the center strip for off road, especially mud and the like.
I like the k60, i think there maybe a better tire out there still

here's the link and ride report from adv forum

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=845789



http://www.mx1canada.com/mitas-adventure-and-safari-tires/

 

[triman11427]

With a garage full of bikes an my lady regularly burning the rear tire of her Ducati I went with a No Mar changer many years ago-- easy, painless and fun to use.. You will instantly become a popular guy amongst your riding buddy's. lol

For those prices I could hire a mechanic to come to my house and change the tire very year ::025::
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/category_s/37.htm

 

[Twisties]

There is a good thread on tire changes I believe it's in the tech folder. No special tools needed you can use the six sided back end of a socket to remove the front axle. Also as long as you don't disturb your current weights on the rim and place the valve stems on the painted dot on the new tire, balancing is usually not required. I mounted my own using our tire machine at the M/C safety center and no vibes at all. Here is one link for rear drive maintenance during a tire change.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=4713.0

Here is the rear tire change thread: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5275.0

And here is the front wheel removal pictorial: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5279.msg93331#msg93331

 

[Twisties]

I use a nomar, having tried and discarded the harbor freight unit.

 

[TreeMuncher]

If you have a forklift handy, they are great for breaking the bead off of the rim. I use that, two 12" tire spoons and WD-40 to change out tires on all of my bikes. I've got a HF el cheapo tire balancer for the shakes.

I usually add Amerseal to my tires after to keep them balanced, running cooler and prevent flats. It's water based so I can still do an inside patch if I need to salvage a tire that still leaks.

 

[triman11427]

Ive spoken with my local dealer who will mount and balance for $45 per tire off the bike and $60 if I just ride her in with an appointment. Sounds in line with what I've read. Now all I have to do is decide on a tire. There's so much info out there I'm really having a hard time with this.
I ride 95% on road but I'm looking to add some easy off road stuff this summer. I commute and also do long stretches of highway. I've done a flash etc to make the bike as quick and smooth as possible so I'm not looking for a tire that vibes at highway speed. TR91, Anakee2, Tourance etc all seem to be in line with what might work but I'm concerned I'd be committing to a tire that won't perform to my needs. If I were doing the changes myself, I wouldn't be as concerned.

 

[markjenn]

I ride 95% on road but I'm looking to add some easy off road stuff this summer. I commute and also do long stretches of highway. I've done a flash etc to make the bike as quick and smooth as possible so I'm not looking for a tire that vibes at highway speed. TR91, Anakee2, Tourance etc all seem to be in line with what might work but I'm concerned I'd be committing to a tire that won't perform to my needs.

It's almost impossible these days to buy a "bad tire" and almost any of the standard 90-10 tires out there are going to be excellent highway tires and acceptable for "easy off-road" (e.g., gravel, forest service roads, etc.). Tourances (I'd avoid the EXP) are the distance champs but expensive. The best price/performance balance I've found is the OEM Battlewings which are often available for under $200/pair shipped.

- Mark

 

[terrysig]

It's almost impossible these days to buy a "bad tire" and almost any of the standard 90-10 tires out there are going to be excellent highway tires and acceptable for "easy off-road" (e.g., gravel, forest service roads, etc.). Tourances (I'd avoid the EXP) are the distance champs but expensive. The best price/performance balance I've found is the OEM Battlewings which are often available for under $200/pair shipped.

- Mark

+1...drop them down a few pounds and they are good (newer) offroad if the going is not too muddy or sand.

 

[triman11427]

It's almost impossible these days to buy a "bad tire" and almost any of the standard 90-10 tires out there are going to be excellent highway tires and acceptable for "easy off-road" (e.g., gravel, forest service roads, etc.). Tourances (I'd avoid the EXP) are the distance champs but expensive. The best price/performance balance I've found is the OEM Battlewings which are often available for under $200/pair shipped.

- Mark

I'm not crazy about my BW. 4700 miles and the rear is squared off. Looking for a change.

 

[Dallara]

It's almost impossible these days to buy a "bad tire" and almost any of the standard 90-10 tires out there are going to be excellent highway tires and acceptable for "easy off-road" (e.g., gravel, forest service roads, etc.). Tourances (I'd avoid the EXP) are the distance champs but expensive. The best price/performance balance I've found is the OEM Battlewings which are often available for under $200/pair shipped.

- Mark

You must ride at a pretty sedate and leisurely pace, Mark, if you think the OEM Battlewings stick as good as Metzler Tourance EXP's... I've only run the Tourance EXP's on my Super Tenere, but I've ridden plenty of bikes with Bridgestone Battlewings and they're not a tire I would choose no matter how cheap they were.

There's a new Metzler Tourance coming soon, Triman11427. It's called the "Tourance NEXT", and it looks pretty good for a 90/10 dual-sport tire...

I've been pretty happy with the price/performance ratio of the Tourance EXP's. My dealer keeps 'em in stock for me, and his prices for mounting and balancing are more than fair. I'm on my 5th rear EXP and my 3rd front. I'll do one more rear and that will have the front worn out. At that time I will probably try the new Tourance NEXT above, or perhaps the new Michelin Anakee 3 that just came out. Here's what they look like...

Just as an aside, these two tire brand/models are going to be the OEM fitment ones on the new 2013 BMW water-cooled R1200G/S, so one would imagine they have the latest tire technology out there. That said, there are a bunch of guys over on ADVrider who swear by Dunlop TR91's and Continental Trail Attacks, so you might want to look at those, too.

Just FYI...

Dallara



~

 

[BaldKnob]

I'm not crazy about my BW. 4700 miles and the rear is squared off. Looking for a change.

My Battlewings were done at 5000 but made it to 7000 miles. Ridden conservatively, you might get 1000 more. The only handling concern with the BW's was the rear would get loose on mid-corner tar snakes. I liked the Anakee II better (street and dirt). The front had 9000 miles when I replaced it with the K60s but could have gone 2K more. I had problems with punctures on both the rear Anakee's, the last culprit was a shard of rock. You might want to look at the Anakee 3's for a smoother road ride with some offroadability.

 

[RED CAT]

Getting the wheels off and tires changed on the S10 isn't all that bad if you are at least mechanically inclined. The rear wheel can be tricky the first time getting it off. I siliconed the cush drive together so that it doesn't come apart when dropping the rear wheel. Careful when tightening it back up later with the axel nut. Don't use the pinch bolts to hold the axel while you tighten the outside nut. Use a 1/2 inch threaded rod coupling on the opposite side of the axel. It fits right in there like it was made for it. Available at any hardware store for about a $1. If you try tightening with the axel pinch bolted you end up squeezing the 2 sides of the swingarm together. When you take off the front wheel unbolt the ABS chummyodler first then undo one of the brake calipers and pull it off. Now you are ready to undo the axel and drop the front wheel. When you put it back together the brake plate fits into a small slot, so be careful. Now for popping off the tires. Undo the inside valve stem and release all the air. Lay the wheel down on a couple of 2x4s so the rotors don't touch the floor. Put it about 1 foot from a wall. As Greg said, I use a small strong square shovel to break the bead. Place it just out side the rim on the tire, balance yourself against the wall with one hand with other hand on the shovel as you hop up on the shovel with all your weight and both feet and bounce a few times. Eventually the tire will go pop and you have broken the bead. Then just move the shovel around the tire and gentley push the tire all the way in all the way around. Now turn the wheel over and repeat. Once the bead is broken all around just use 3 tire irons to pop the tire off one side at a time. Align the new tire with the colored dots even with the valve stem. Thats the lightest part of the tire. Watch for the tire rotation arrow on the tire. Spoon on the new tires. Use a little dish wash liquid and water to lube the tires edge. Slides on a little easier then. If you scuff up your rims a little just use a black felt marker to touch them up after. Once the tire is on I use a small compressor to bead the tire again with lottsa lube. For balancing I use a couple of jack stands and the axel slid through wheel. Simply let the wheel fall to its heaviest spot on the bottom. Add stick on weights to the top of the rim with any kind of tape temporarily. Till you figure out how much weight to add and then stick on permanantly. Stick on weights are available at tire shops or RC Shops. Once the wheel no longer wants to spin, from any angle, you have the right weight and location. This is called a static balance and is great 99% of the time. A good idea at this point to spray clean the rotors with Break Cleaner. Pop the wheels back on the bike and you are good to go. Sounds like a lot of work but worth it just for the experience as long as you're not in a hurry. I've done it so many times now it usually only takes me 45 minutes off and back on again. Hope this helps someone. Oh, my favourite tires are Michlin Anakee 2s in case anyone cares. ::001::

 

[triman11427]

Thanks Red Cat, that's a terrific step by step lesson in tire changing. I was thinking of getting a Harbor Freight tire changer. I know the quality, just wondering if its even worth the $39.

 

[greg the pole]

just to add to Red Cat's comment.

I started changning my own tires a while ago, fairly straight forward, with the right technique.
couple of pointers

keep a rounded shovel handy for your ghetto bead breaker
keep a buddy around to help you with the tire (beer after job done!)
Lots of lube! Windex works well, or a tire changing paste works well too. Lube before you take the old tire off, lube before installing the new one.
Balancing. I ordered some dynabeads a while ago. Two words: Rip off! Turns out the same company that makes them sells them under a different name locally (calgary) for a fifth of the price. You will need two ounce for the rear wheel, one ounce for the front. I paid $17 for a 16 ounce bag. Whereas the dynabeads were $80 for 12 ounce.

Also here's a handy video of a guy swapping his tire: Tubeless Motorcycle Tire Change: Tire Changing

 

[triman11427]

Not sure what the "Use a 1/2 inch threaded rod coupling on the opposite side of the axel"is .

 

[Ironhand]

You must ride at a pretty sedate and leisurely pace, Mark, if you think the OEM Battlewings stick as good as Metzler Tourance EXP's... I've only run the Tourance EXP's on my Super Tenere, but I've ridden plenty of bikes with Bridgestone Battlewings and they're not a tire I would choose no matter how cheap they were.

There's a new Metzler Tourance coming soon, Triman11427. It's called the "Tourance NEXT", and it looks pretty good for a 90/10 dual-sport tire...

I've been pretty happy with the price/performance ratio of the Tourance EXP's. My dealer keeps 'em in stock for me, and his prices for mounting and balancing are more than fair. I'm on my 5th rear EXP and my 3rd front. I'll do one more rear and that will have the front worn out. At that time I will probably try the new Tourance NEXT above, or perhaps the new Michelin Anakee 3 that just came out. Here's what they look like...

Just as an aside, these two tire brand/models are going to be the OEM fitment ones on the new 2013 BMW water-cooled R1200G/S, so one would imagine they have the latest tire technology out there. That said, there are a bunch of guys over on ADVrider who swear by Dunlop TR91's and Continental Trail Attacks, so you might want to look at those, too.

Just FYI...

Dallara



~

Not to hijack the thread, but out of curiosity, how many miles are you getting out of your EXPs. These are the best "street" tire I have triied on an ADV bike, but they're lousy for the type of riding I do the most of.

 

[RED CAT]

triman11427! I guess you don't know what a 1/2 inch threaded rod coupling is then. Go ask for one at your local hardware store. ::001::

 

[snakebitten]

 

[fredz43]

And if you buy your coupling at Lowe's or Ace Hardware, it will probably be smaller than 19mm, at least around are they are. I believe japako reported that the ones that Home Depot sells are the right size. Take a 19 mm socket with you to try it out for size.