Final Drive oil seal specifications -anyone?

[The Ferret]

Does anyone have the oil seal specifications ie internal/external diameter, depth and type for the final drive? Particularly the seal on the drive shaft. I have an oil seal supplier who is easier to access than a Yam dealer.
I'm suffering from an oil leak on spirited rides, steadier riding doesn't cause any leakage.

 

[Big Blu]

Sorry I can't help with the information you requested.

I would like to know how many miles on your bike when the leak started? Do you ride it off road in the rough?

Paul

 

[The Ferret]

Hi Paul, its happened twice. About 15k miles and now 24k miles. Always after a spirited ride. Pumpkin really hot. Riding on pavement/tarmac.

 

[Big Blu]

Hi Paul, its happened twice. About 15k miles and now 24k miles. Always after a spirited ride. Pumpkin really hot. Riding on pavement/tarmac.

Thanks Mr Ferret, that's not an encouraging sign......

Others here will say no big deal, I say I expect better from Yamaha. I wonder if they updated the seal on the 2014's?.

Paul

 

[snakebitten]

Sail2xx has about 120,000(?) miles on his. I think he has changed his 4 or 5 times.
I suspect the kind of riding he does best exploits the weakness of the seal. Longer, high speed, sustained runs with a hot pumpkin. I also suspect he attends to it when it happens.

Mine has leaked off & on for the last ~20,000 miles. (bike has just less than 36k) I have shown it to Yamaha tech every 4000 miles and more. (tire changes) He decided it's time I let him fix it. So I will. Coming Tuesday.

And yea, I could expect more, I suppose. But I can't believe that is all the damage I have managed to do. Poor bike gets the snot ran out of it.

 

[big dave]

Does anyone have the oil seal specifications ie internal/external diameter, depth and type for the final drive? Particularly the seal on the drive shaft. I have an oil seal supplier who is easier to access than a Yam dealer.
I'm suffering from an oil leak on spirited rides, steadier riding doesn't cause any leakage.

I would question whether the breather is, err, breathing. Spirited ride = heat = increased internal pressure = oil leak past the seal.

Just thinking aloud!

 

[The Ferret]

So how would you test the breather? Open the filler and put suction over the breather?

 

[The Ferret]

Well I decided to buy the OEM outer seal PN: 931084900300 and measured it.

The seal is a concertina construction to allow the drive shaft to move backwards and forwards. The inner diameter is 29mm and the outer 49.33 mm. The seal band onto the shaft is 7.2 mm and the outer band is 9.5 mm.

Having taken the final drive off , I've found that its the inner seal thats gone! I've left the final drive with the dealer. Looks like it'll be at least 2 weeks before I get it near the bike. :-[

Anyone measure up the inner seal?

 

[Koinz]

So how would you test the breather? Open the filler and put suction over the breather?

Overfill the final drive and go for a ride - The oil spews out of the breather. I just happen to do that this winter where its very easy to overfill the drive when the oil comes out like honey. ???
After the ride, the oil warmed up and I let out the excess. no more spewing out the breather. ;D

 

[Philistine]

My seal went at 8000km after I went through some deep mud I took it apart and cleaned up the seal and it didn't leek again, not very good for a bike that's spose to be off road capable, I think the seal just isn't up to the job of off road riding

 

[snakebitten]

Where did the mud penetrate at to get to the seal?

 

[Karson]

Where did the mud penetrate at to get to the seal?

:question: x2

 

[Philistine]

it was a very watery mud and it must have got a small grain of dirt behind the rubber part of the seal which allowed it to seep oil out, I was going to replace it until they told me the price of the O ring and seal, so because it was a pretty simple job I thought I would clean it up and put it back on and see what happened, its still going strong. The was nothing to see on the seal damage wise

 

[The Ferret]

That sounds like the main output seals at the wheel hub splines.

 

[snakebitten]

Mine are getting replaced today! After leaking on & off forever. Lol
I suspect they got contaminated by the missing rubber plug on my swingarm. No telling how many miles of dirt, water, and general neglect I subjected that opening to.
But who knows? It might have nothing to do with it. It's a tiny rubber lip with an amazing burden, considering. And even with the mess it makes, the actual volume of fluid that escapes is tiny.

 

[The Ferret]

Well I spent a couple of hours doing mine today. I would have rather get the dealership to do it, but they would only do it if they'd got the special tools. Waiting for those would have been mid May!

It's quite straight forward except for the huffing and puffing. Specific tools required are impact wrench and a series of clamps to secure the pumpkin to the bench. To stop the drive coupling spinning I used a 54mm U bolt with its clamp plate. The legs rest against the final drive securing pins thus giving the impact wrench something to fight against.

 

[AndyCBR]

When replacing the inner seal housed by the bearing retainer nut did you have to remove the bearing retainer nut (needs a special tool)?

It seems to me you could replace the seal alone while leaving the bearing retainer nut in place.

I've got the same leak and parts are in hand so going to have a go at it myself.

Unfortunately I found my oval swingarm plug missing so who knows what has gotten in the swingarm. Lots of offload, sand, and several submerged water crossings.

 

[The Ferret]

Sorry for the delay on this one !

To remove the seal I had to remove the coupling so the nut had to be removed. The seal was pretty well jammed in and needed collapsing to remove.

 

[AndyCBR]

No worries mate.

I was asking whether the BRN (bearing retainer nut) has to be removed to replace the oil seal. The BRN is the round "nut" that houses the seal in question.

Obviously the driveshaft coupler and associated hex nut have to come off.

I was successful in replacing the oil seal and used a standard seal puller to get it out. I did liberally spray the area and clean out the crud prior to removing the driveshaft coupler so as not to contaminate the driveshaft gears and make the seal easier to remove.

Props on the muffler clamp tip. I did the same and used a 2-1/8" (USA for 54mm) clamp to counteract the impact.

The two Yamaha special tools they call for in the manual are over $500 from the dealer through K&L. Granted, I was not able to guarantee 108 ft-lb of torque but between the impact, the loctite, the belleville washer, and staking the new nut I used I feel I have belt and suspenders and then some.

This took some time and care but was not as big a deal as I had imagined. By far the biggest challenge for me was replacing the oil seal on the driveshaft itself as it is very hard to slip it off the shaft once seated. It is metal impregnated so you can't just cut it with a utility knife. I ended up having to use an old wood chisel and pry around the perimeter and work it loose. If I had to do it all over again I probably would have kept the driveshaft coupler oil seal as it came out in perfect shape.