Final Drive Fluid Change

[Hendrixwannnabe1]

This is the stuff i used.
Think i will give it a couple thousand kms and drain it out again to see if it is silver again.

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[Don in Lodi]

It might look like that at the first 600 mile service, and maybe to a lesser extent at 5 and 10k, but it should start looking very clean after that.

 

[Boris]

I did about 4 diff fluid changes using mineral oil and it always came out with a silver tinge to it, although not to the extent yours is. Changed to fully synthetic oil and over another 3 fluid changes it comes out looking more or less how it went in. Also, although I have nothing scientific to prove it, I’m pretty sure the diff runs cooler on fully synthetic, it’s certainly cooler to the touch.

 

[Tenman]

I use valvoline synthetic. My first change wasn't much discoloration. I change mine @ 10k miles now with valvoline synthetic. It looks almost new everytime.

 

[Jlq1969]

I think that the only thing made of aluminum in the rear differential is the housing itself….some minimum friction of something against the housing

 

[Hendrixwannnabe1]

I did about 4 diff fluid changes using mineral oil and it always came out with a silver tinge to it, although not to the extent yours is. Changed to fully synthetic oil and over another 3 fluid changes it comes out looking more or less how it went in. Also, although I have nothing scientific to prove it, I’m pretty sure the diff runs cooler on fully synthetic, it’s certainly cooler to the touch.

Okies. I will put a couple thousand kms into this oil and take note of how hot the case gets. Then swap to full synthetic.
Any recommendations on oil weight with the FS oil?
My bike is a 2010 with 60000km on it.

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[Don in Lodi]

Same weight.

 

[Berg_Donk]

Okies. I will put a couple thousand kms into this oil and take note of how hot the case gets. Then swap to full synthetic.
Any recommendations on oil weight with the FS oil?
My bike is a 2010 with 60000km on it.

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I've been running Mobil 1 75/90 gear oil with no apparent issues. No particular reason, other than I use it elsewhere and have it on the shelf in the shed.

 

[WJBertrand]

Okies. I will put a couple thousand kms into this oil and take note of how hot the case gets. Then swap to full synthetic.
Any recommendations on oil weight with the FS oil?
My bike is a 2010 with 60000km on it.

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They have those stick-on temperature indicators that might be handy to quantitate any differences.


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[Boris]

Okies. I will put a couple thousand kms into this oil and take note of how hot the case gets. Then swap to full synthetic.
Any recommendations on oil weight with the FS oil?
My bike is a 2010 with 60000km on it.

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Mine is the same Gen bike as yours, done about 64000km. I use this.

 

[Eville Rich]

I have an unreasonable amount of gear oil on my shelf. Various quart/partial-quart quantities of:
1) The specified Yamaha gear lube
2) A number of quarts of older Mobil 1 75-90 LS. FYI - the spouts fit on the Yamaha bottles.
3) Amsoil 75-90 GL-5
4) Redline MTL, 75-90, and lightweight shockproof
5) Motul 75W-90 (I think GL-5, combined it w/ the Redline shockproof in a Subbie tranny to good result)

Collected from prior car ownership. I'm doing the gear oil change every oil change on account my supply, but was wondering about whether any are unsuitable. I've ruled out all the Redline for various reasons; ran the Mobil 1 for ~4,000 miles before getting the Yamaha gear oil. Didn't seem to get anything negative from the Mobil 1, but who knows. Any opinions on some others to rule out? I sort of want to reduce the clutter but have an aversion to tossing out any of these nice gear lubes.

Eville Rich
2016 S10

 

[Cycledude]

I have an unreasonable amount of gear oil on my shelf. Various quart/partial-quart quantities of:
1) The specified Yamaha gear lube
2) A number of quarts of older Mobil 1 75-90 LS. FYI - the spouts fit on the Yamaha bottles.
3) Amsoil 75-90 GL-5
4) Redline MTL, 75-90, and lightweight shockproof
5) Motul 75W-90 (I think GL-5, combined it w/ the Redline shockproof in a Subbie tranny to good result)

Collected from prior car ownership. I'm doing the gear oil change every oil change on account my supply, but was wondering about whether any are unsuitable. I've ruled out all the Redline for various reasons; ran the Mobil 1 for ~4,000 miles before getting the Yamaha gear oil. Didn't seem to get anything negative from the Mobil 1, but who knows. Any opinions on some others to rule out? I sort of want to reduce the clutter but have an aversion to tossing out any of these nice gear lubes.

Eville Rich
2016 S10

Just mix them all together, there is no significant difference between brands other than price.

 

[WJBertrand]

Sounds like you already eliminated the Redline MTL, which sounds like a good decision as I don’t think it’s rated GL5, so not intended for a hypoid rear drive.


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[ra2ras]

Is there any difference between Gl-5 and Gl-4 for hypoid gear oil? Which one should I use for Canada? Temp from -10c to +45c

 

[ErictheBiking]

Being a sidecar outfit, mine is probably working a little harder than most.
Using 75/90 full synthetic with a dash of Moly for insurance.
Change at every engine oil change.

 

[ra2ras]

Being a sidecar outfit, mine is probably working a little harder than most.
Using 75/90 full synthetic with a dash of Moly for insurance.
Change at every engine oil change.

Amazing setup . First time seeing a sidecar on a ADV bike!

 

[Fozziebeard]

Im going to do engine and drive tomorrow, shell helix hx7 10w-40 for engine and ive found a bottle of castor syntrans fe 75w api gl-4 for the drive, wish me luck

 

[WJBertrand]

Im going to do engine and drive tomorrow, shell helix hx7 10w-40 for engine and ive found a bottle of castor syntrans fe 75w api gl-4 for the drive, wish me luck

You should probably use GL-5 rated gear lube since the Super Ténéré has a hypoid type final drive.


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[Haynes]

I read through this thread but didn't see/couldn't find an answer to this question: Does anyone know the size of the FD filler bolt (#90340-14002)? I dislike Allen-Head bolts as they tend to eventually round out. I had one of these filler bolts round out on my 2013 Super Tenere and it was a bitch to remove (took several blows with a hammer and chisel), so I'd like to replace it with a regular Hex-Head bolt, like the FD drain bolt. I note that on the FJR both the filler and drain bolts are Hex-Head bolts so why the difference on the Super Tenere? Perhaps the filler bolt from the FJR will fit the Super Tenere? I note that both bikes use the same drain bolt.

Also, earlier in this thread there was some discussion about how to fill the Super Tenere's FD with the proper amount of gear oil. I put the bike on the centre stand and put a 3/8" thick piece of wood under the left foot of the centre stand, thus leaning the bike slightly to the right. I then fill the FD using Yamalube Shaft Drive Oil Exclusive (80W90?) with a nipple on the end of the bottle, until the oil reaches the opening of the filler hole, then I remove the piece of wood from under the centre stand and allow the excess oil to drain out of the filler hole. This leaves the FD oil at the proper fill level.

In my opinion, the design of the Super Tenere's FD filler hole is dumb. Why Yamaha didn't angle it upwards like they did on the FJR is beyond me.

Haynes

 

[EricV]

Does anyone know the size of the FD filler bolt (#90340-14002)?

When you only have the country of your location in your profile, it makes it difficult to give you suggestions on where to go. If you took the filler bolt to Canada Tire, you could quickly determine the size and pitch of the bolt and likely get a hex head replacement for it. The fill and drain plug are M12 x 1.5.